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2008 Commander Limited, 2WD, 5.7L
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Discussion Starter • #1 13 h ago

Hi Y'all,
I'm new to the forum, but owned this 2008 Commander Limited, 5.7L, since 2010. It's had the factory recall done for the key FOBs and the front control module. Looks like I've got one of three or more possible problems. Presently has 111,829 miles on the clock.
When out running errands and after one stop and restart, noticed engine light was on. Transmission felt like it was slipping (slow take off), and noticed gear indicator showed 4 rather than D. Tried to change to D, but it would only indicate D when held to the right. Transmission was still in 4 as it still had a slow take off. Tried to down shift, but it stayed at 4. After another stop I tried the remote start. Car started fine, but shut off just after I got in. Inserted fob and started it. Put the shifter in drive and it showed D. Car drove and shifted normally for a short time, then went back to showing 4 on the indicator. Clunking hard into reverse and into drive (4). Car was clearly stuck in 4th gear as it did not shift when getting up to highway speed. 50 mph = 2200 rpm; 60 mph = 2600 rpm; 70 mph = 3000 rpm; 80 mph = 3400 rpm. Even at 80 it would not shift up to D. Tried turning the tow switch on and off, but it remained in 4. Checked for codes after getting home and got P0750 Shift Solenoid "A" DTC trouble code (problem with 1-2 gear shift solenoid). Checked transmission fluid; it's full. Transmission was serviced (both filters, gasket and 9 qts. fluid) 37,749 miles ago (74,060). Tried to use remote start, doors locked but engine did not start; tried a few more times but no joy. Suspect there may be an ECU or TCM failure as the remote start also quit. Maybe just the shift solenoid? Inspected wiring harness and connectors at transmission, all look okay. Has anybody else experienced this and if so what all got replaced to correct it? I hate just changing parts, but have no manuals or info on component testing for this car.
 

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It is possible remote start won't work if there is a check-engine light code set..
I know a remote start will shut down if the CEL lights, but not sure if it will prevent a remote start..
 

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This could be a serious problem or a simple fix.
Are you sure the correct type transmission fluid was used?

I'd first double check the fluid level, color, smell and any signs of it being burnt.
Check and re-seat all electrical connectors to the transmission for looseness, corrosion, etc.
Also check the wiring for worn insulation, breakage, etc.

Don't know if your shifter is of the electronic or mechanical linkage type.
If mechanical linkage, check for binding, worn plastic bushing, etc.
If electronic, you're on your own.

If all looks ok try a PCM reset. In fact you might want to do this first as its the easiest to try.

Finally it could be a shot solenoid which if its located internally in the transmission that would require dropping the pan or visiting a trusted transmission shop.

Far as the remote tomk is probably right.
Fix one thing at a time.
 

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2008 Commander Limited, 2WD, 5.7L
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Discussion Starter #4
It is possible remote start won't work if there is a check-engine light code set..
I know a remote start will shut down if the CEL lights, but not sure if it will prevent a remote start..
Thanks tomk, I put that to the test just now. Code was not cleared since working on it yesterday. It did remote start, but shut down 10 seconds and would not remote start again. Checked and cleared code (P0750 only). Started by ignition switch, no CEL but clunked hard into R and just as hard into D (4) and engine cooling fan came on high. Turned off all AC but cooling fan remained on high even though the car was cold. Tried remote start again, started and shut down in 10 seconds. Cleared code. Remote started and it kept running. Put the FOB in the switch, put it in gear (clunked hard) and the cooling fan came back on high. Unless someone else has experience with these exact symptoms and knows what will fix it, I'll probably get the solenoid block and replace it. Could be the solenoid block problem is causing the ECU (PCM) to do this other weird stuff. Read lots of different threads with similar problems but nobody continues the thread to a resolution...…...
 

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2008 Commander Limited, 2WD, 5.7L
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
This could be a serious problem or a simple fix.
Are you sure the correct type transmission fluid was used?

I'd first double check the fluid level, color, smell and any signs of it being burnt.
Check and re-seat all electrical connectors to the transmission for looseness, corrosion, etc.
Also check the wiring for worn insulation, breakage, etc.

Don't know if your shifter is of the electronic or mechanical linkage type.
If mechanical linkage, check for binding, worn plastic bushing, etc.
If electronic, you're on your own.

If all looks ok try a PCM reset. In fact you might want to do this first as its the easiest to try.

Finally it could be a shot solenoid which if its located internally in the transmission that would require dropping the pan or visiting a trusted transmission shop.

Far as the remote tomk is probably right.
Fix one thing at a time.
Thanks moparado, yes it's the correct fluid type. It's been great ever since I changed the fluid and filters over 37,000 miles ago. Fluid is full, and just as clean as the day I put it in. Only thing I haven't done is wiggle the connectors, but the vehicle is well cared for and mostly driven easily. I'm just hesitant to spend the bucks and time on the solenoid block with these other seemingly unrelated symptoms.
 

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I'd pull the connectors off the PCM, carefully inspect for corrosion/dirt/etc, and reseat them.
 

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2008 Commander Limited, 2WD, 5.7L
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Discussion Starter #7
I'd pull the connectors off the PCM, carefully inspect for corrosion/dirt/etc, and reseat them.
Yeah, I'll check all wiring and multi-plugs before buying the solenoid block, but that's the way it's looking now. I'll let y'all know how it turns out and so the next guy will be able to see what resolved the problem.
 

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I have no clue on what transmission you have in your Jeep.
As i and others have said check the connectors and wiring to the tranny before calling out the cavalry.

If its an external solenoid pack like on my old long gone Dodge Neon, easy replacement without dropping the pan.
If the solenoids are internal they can be ohm'd out.
Yeah it would be helpful to myself and others to keep us all updated on the final fix.
 

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2008 Commander Limited, 2WD, 5.7L
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Discussion Starter #9
I have no clue on what transmission you have in your Jeep.
As i and others have said check the connectors and wiring to the tranny before calling out the cavalry.

If its an external solenoid pack like on my old long gone Dodge Neon, easy replacement without dropping the pan.
If the solenoids are internal they can be ohm'd out.
Yeah it would be helpful to myself and others to keep us all updated on the final fix.
It's a 545RFE. Checked it with an Ohm meter and got 140 when it should have been about 1.8. Ordered the shift solenoid block; should be here today. I'll let y'all know how it goes. Here's a YouTube video that I found (same gear box):
 

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It's a 545RFE. Checked it with an Ohm meter and got 140 when it should have been about 1.8. Ordered the shift solenoid block; should be here today. I'll let y'all know how it goes. Here's a YouTube video that I found (same gear box):
Great! Looks like you're making progress!
Too bad though that the pan needs to be dropped to replace the solenoid pack.
 

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2008 Commander Limited, 2WD, 5.7L
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Discussion Starter #11
Great! Looks like you're making progress!
Too bad though that the pan needs to be dropped to replace the solenoid pack.
Great! Looks like you're making progress!
Too bad though that the pan needs to be dropped to replace the solenoid pack.
Thanks moparado,
To everyone following this thread:
It's repaired now and here's the resolution:
I found a good trouble shooting video on line:
Checked my shift solenoid block as in the video. pins 10-19 had 140 ohms. Pins 1-2, 4, 6, 8 all showed 140 ohms. The guy in the video said it should be about 2 ohms. I found a new shift solenoid block on Amazon for $319. There are plenty on line cheaper that are reman if you want to go that route. The part arrived the next day and appeared to be a MOPAR part; exact in every way right down ink stamped part number (the new one had "F" as the last character, where the old one was a "D" (two generations updated on the new one). Before dropping the pan, I plugged the new part into the harness (there's just barely enough room to do it) and ohmed it out. Pins 10-19 were 1.6 ohms and all the rest came in at 3.0 ohms. Just a few notes and tips for anyone else doing this. There are 6 hex head bolts (8mm / 5/16" heads) that retain the valve body. Once you remove them you may have to gently pry the left side down with a screw driver, but it will pop out easily; beware that this assembly weighs just over 15 lbs. and additional fluid will pour down on you when trying to get it out. Once out and on the bench, compare the new part with the old and mark the 15 pan head Torx (T-25) screws that need to be removed. I found this nice bit of info while searching for torque specs:
www.instructables.com

Dodge (5)45RFE Solenoid Pack Replacement
Dodge (5)45RFE Solenoid Pack Replacement: Had a code P0750 throw my check engine light for me, so since I needed to replace a solenoid and this is a pretty common dodge transmission, I thought I might put this up here so maybe someone else can benefit from my experience. Job was pretty simp…
www.instructables.com
www.instructables.com
He says T-20 for the filter and solenoid block screws, but mine were T-25, but the torque specs are quite handy.
Once it was all back together it took 12 quarts of ATF to refill it (took 9 quarts when I only changed the fluid and filters last time). Cleared the P0750 from the PCM and test drove. All is well and the wife is happy to have her car back. Hope this info helps the next guy. Shoot me a message if y'all have any questions.
 

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Thanks for the update and write-up.
 
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