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New OEM wheels or aftermarket wheels? Cause most aftermarket wheels are not even close to OEM offset, so you will change scrub radius and that can create problems with vibrations and steering. But you also said this was worse before you got the new wheels and tires, so again we are back to something being worn out in the front suspension.

Does you state have yearly safety inspections? Cause most states with safety inspections have the mechanics get real good at inspecting and finding suspension problems.

My state doesn't have a periodic safety inspection, only when the vehicle is purchased do you have to have to have an inspection, which makes buying a used vehicle a major PITA, only state I have lived or visited that I have seen cars disabled in the middle of the road with separated suspension pieces and the wheel half out of the wheel well, as well as old vehicles losing control during a passing maneuver and crashing on perfectly safe highways..... ...seen it more than once.... ...of course the owners/drivers bear as much responsibility, you suspension doesn't seperate without thousands of miles of warning, nor is it wise to drive a vehicle passed a speed that it is stable, nor realize that speed drops as suspension wears out....
 

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2014 Summit 5.7 4wd 20" tires swapped to 18", added all skid plates
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Yes the TPMS sensor light is on in the video due to two bad rear TPMS sensors installed when I had my "new" rims installed, balanced, and aligned a few weeks ago. I have new TPMS sensors on the way for replacements. The rims and tires are basically brand new, maybe only 1500-2k miles on them before I had them installed. This problem has been happening before I purchased the new rims and tires, but with the new rims and tires the steering wheel shaking has come down a bit. The video I took wasn't the best but at the same time, it didn't capture the worst of the steering wheel shimmy. Sometimes it gets worse than what was shown in the video. The only terrible thing about it is that when I'm alone driving the vibration literally makes my passenger seat vibrate and shake.

Since I've had the new rims and tires my avg MPG has gone up from 13.2/5 to 17+ on the highway.

Mongo, the tires have all been Roadforce Balanced so I'm assuming its going to be my front control arms, especially since my truck has close to 130k miles on it with stock parts.
So you had this shaking before you got the new tires and rims right? So that pretty much rules out tires and rims as the cause. From what I saw on your video it did not seem like the same kind of steering wheel shake I got when my upper control arms were bad. Mine didn't shake until I hit a good sized tar strip and that would set it off but mine didn't seem like quite as fast a shake as you are getting. It would get a shake for perhaps 1.645 seconds after the tar strip and then settle back down. I don't think anyone here can diagnose it other then by getting lucky, it needs to be looked at.
 

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Mine was a constant let/right rock of the steering wheel a few degrees, rocking faster the faster the speed.
....it needs to be looked at.
...and by looked at, he means a mechanic or someone with the knowledge and experience to check each suspension piece and their joints to test for excessive lash.

That was what I was getting at about state safety inspection (before going off on a tangent about my state not having them). Most state safety inspections prescribe this sort of check on the suspension, and thus mechanics not only learn how to check them, they also get good at it, and can tell you when a ball joint is bad, with an actual measurement of lash, despite the owner not even noticing or being able to tell when they check themselves.

With the tools and measuring they might have caught the bad bushings on my upper control arm, I couldn't spot it doing my DIY visual inspection and push/pull for lash. But when I disconnected the upper control arm ball joint from the steering knuckle to change the shock/strut, the upper control arm moved up and down with no resistance, let it go and it would drop down as far as it could go before hitting the surrounding metal.

I think you're making a mistake just assuming its upper control arms, but its possible that it is. You're skipping a step that is inspecting the suspension thoroughly and finding what is worn out, and instead assuming it has to be a more common worn out part that others experienced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
They are 100% OEM rims. I'm going to be taking it to a reputable shop on Monday or Tuesday morning when I have time to spare.
 

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They are 100% OEM rims. I'm going to be taking it to a reputable shop on Monday or Tuesday morning when I have time to spare.
Keep us updated!
 
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