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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Along with my upcoming Audio install, i figure I need to upgrade the big 3 as well as replace the battery terminals. I was hoping someone here has pics from doin git on a GC and could give me approximate lengths I would need. Were there any complications that I should know about before going at it?

Appreciate the help guys/gals!

Andy K
 

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Haven't done it Andy, sorry. Remember to keep the existing wiring in place, just add the new 4 gauge (or bigger) wire. Whenever I get around to doing a new stereo I'm going to go ahead and do this as well as replace the batt terminals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
my system will be less than 1000watts, but I guess my main concern is that if I am changing out the way that the current connections attach to the battery, might as well just upgrade the wiring. If I'm to keep the existing wiring in place...I'm not sure how I will do this all then.

Hey Matt,
I bought my Distro block today, and my wiring yesterday. Next weds I will be buying the deadening materials.

My list is down to:
RCA's 15' - 17' for 2 amps
Techflex and Shrink
MDF for the false floor and Box
New mounting hardware for the 9887, and radio adapter

I think that's it. though I'm sure there's more.
 

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my system will be less than 1000watts, but I guess my main concern is that if I am changing out the way that the current connections attach to the battery, might as well just upgrade the wiring. If I'm to keep the existing wiring in place...I'm not sure how I will do this all then.
Yeah, I'm at about 1,000 watts as well and I have no electrical issues. I still want to do it, I'm just am lazy, hehe. But it can only help and it's cheap as hell to do. Plus, it will look all pretty under the hood with that techflex and whatnot. :p


Hey Matt,
I bought my Distro block today, and my wiring yesterday. Next weds I will be buying the deadening materials.

My list is down to:
RCA's 15' - 17' for 2 amps
Techflex and Shrink
MDF for the false floor and Box
New mounting hardware for the 9887, and radio adapter

I think that's it. though I'm sure there's more.
Very nice Andy!

Make sure to figure out how much techflex and heat shrink you want... then multiply it by two!!!! Seriously, I think I used twice as much as I originally calculated. It's very cheap (use "furryletters" from eBay for the expandable sleeving! - very cool dude) and you'll want more down the road. Also get zip ties, you'll use a shit load of them. Labels and clear heat shrink (if you plan to label). Any baffle material you'll need + hardware.

since you are going to be running active (and most likely going to swap out drivers down the road) I'd suggest doing what I did and making speaker wire harnesses that run from the amp to the front footwells. This is good for two reasons; as pointed out, if you are switching out drivers and maybe changing locations, it's good to be able to make short runs from the driver location to the end of the terminal in the footwell. Also if you decinde to change the location of the amplifier, you won't need to re-run wire or solder onto the existing run.


Labeled speaker wire harnesses




Labeled wiring for terminal block >> front drivers




Labeled wiring for terminal block >> amplifier





Expandable sleeving + heat shrink + zip ties FTMFW!!!


Before..



After...




LOL
 

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Seriously...I have a good friend that is an electrician and I have done a lot of work with him over the years in homes and cars and he would approve of this for sure :)
 

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Seriously...I have a good friend that is an electrician and I have done a lot of work with him over the years in homes and cars and he would approve of this for sure :)
Thanks my man! This was actually my first time working with any wiring/materials (i.e. expandable sleeving, heat shrink, terminal blocks, labeling, etc.) - I just took my time and luckily everything came out right, haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Where would you recommend picking up those speaker wire terminals? Local or online?
Thanks for the Ebay guys name too.

I'm trying to keep this as stealth as possible so I'm considering aiming the sub at the back of the seats instead of towards the rear hatch. Think I'd lose a lot of sound or quality?
 

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Where would you recommend picking up those speaker wire terminals? Local or online?
Thanks for the Ebay guys name too.
Local - They're like $2.88 each for a 12 terminal strip at Radio Shack.

I'm trying to keep this as stealth as possible so I'm considering aiming the sub at the back of the seats instead of towards the rear hatch. Think I'd lose a lot of sound or quality?
Yes, you don't want to do that. Just as the rear wave needs space... the front wave (from the cone) needs space to function. It will still word, but it's just not ideal or optimal.

If you fo a hlf box like mine and then use a speaker grill with cloth (like a home theater sub), that should make it pretty stealth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I don't know what size expandable sleeving to get or what colors....

I need it for 4awg, 8awg and speaker wiring.
I need 1 color for the Founteks, 1 color for the Peerless, and 1 color for the Mag.
I'm thinking either: Deep Purple, Blue, Grey


OR
Blue, Yellow, white
 
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