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GC Overland
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Please place your queries and comments regarding towing, towbars, wiring, Brake Controllers, and any other Aussie towing matters here.

This way the information will be contained, and others will not need to plough though other irrevelent threads to find info.
 

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GC Overland
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
For those recently purchased a Grand Cherokee, or about to purchase one, there are differences between the US towpack and that supplied to Australian export cars.
Towbar : The towbar used in the US does not comply to our standards, and therefore is not installed at the factory. Australia uses a bar manufactured in New Zealand by BEST BARS, and sold though the Mopar.AU site. Most dealers use this bar and hitch. Hayman Reece also do a suitable bar, but that bar is not 100% compatible, so the rear recovery hitch needs to be removed. Also just be aware that if you go the Hayman Reese towbar option you will NOT be able to fit the Long Range Automotive aux fuel tank. It was designed around the Mopar one only
Wiring: The towpack issues in the US includes the loom for brake controllers. For some reason, the Australian cars do not have this loom installed. You therefore need to wire a brake controller to power and the rear of the car. When dealers install a towbar, they leave a blue wire sitting up behind the rear passenger side panel (behind where the torch is stored).
Many owners recommend a 6mm wiring for controllers, and 6b&S wiring fort Anderson Plugs.
 

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Good thread AllyPally. I've got a couple of comments.
Firstly, I have the dealer fitted BB from NZ and although they will not supply direct to the public (yet) the aftersales from the Melbourne rep is outstanding. Secondly, a chance discussion in the office last week has given me a potential problem. I tow a boat that weighs 2.25T on the tandem trailer. My trailer (manufactured 1997) has a TARE of 1990kg. I'm told many manufacturers in that time kept the TARE below 2T to avoid hydraulic brakes and brake controllers per ADR. Whilst I have cable operated overides, I wonder what the outcome would be in an insurance claim involving the trailer? The back axle has lugs so a retrofit to new calipers is possible....I wonder how much though including a brake controller, new 6mm cable and an Anderson?
 

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I wonder how much though including a brake controller, new 6mm cable and an Anderson?
You may find that it is nearly cheaper to buy a whole new trailer. I've noticed that there are now trailers being imported as knock down kits from China.

They have aluminium side rails but gal cross bars so I'm not sure how they would go long term with the differing metals in contact with each other.
 

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You may find that it is nearly cheaper to buy a whole new trailer. I've noticed that there are now trailers being imported as knock down kits from China.

They have aluminium side rails but gal cross bars so I'm not sure how they would go long term with the differing metals in contact with each other.
Cheers. Any further info on the imports. I was told $9k for a gal and around $11k for ally that I will never get back if I sell the boat.
 

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I thought i read somewhere that the rear recovery hook is also removed now in the MY14 even on the US vehicles. You would use the tow bar as the rear recovery point then.
 

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GC Overland
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I have seen a MY14 and it had the rear recovery hook. However, if you installed the Hayman Reese towbar, you could use it, with a suitable adapter, for recovery.
 

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Any further info on the imports.
Have a look at these :

http://petersontrailers.com.au/contact-us/

Duralum Trailers :: Aluminium Trailers

They say Australian made, but I suspect that means bolted together.

Every second boat at the Rosehill trailer boat show a few months ago was sitting on this style of trailer.

Your boat sounds a fair bit bigger than mine - I have an 18" bowrider so I don't really have a feel for what a trailer for a boat your size would cost. A few years ago I looked into a replacement for my Boeing, and they quoted $4,500. But I give mine the once over every year and it still has a fair bit of life in it yet. Boeing are fairly close to where I live and I can drop in and easily get spare parts etc, so I'm happy to support a local company.
 
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However, if you installed the Hayman Reese towbar, you could use it, with a suitable adapter, for recovery.
This is what I would be doing, as I'd rather pull from the centre of the car, if ever needed.

Also just be aware that if you go the Hayman Reese towbar option you will NOT be able to fit the Long Range Automotive aux fuel tank. It was designed around the Mopar one only. (anyone want an HR towbar??)
 

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GC Overland
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This is what I would be doing, as I'd rather pull from the centre of the car, if ever needed.

Also just be aware that if you go the Hayman Reese towbar option you will NOT be able to fit the Long Range Automotive aux fuel tank. It was designed around the Mopar one only. (anyone want an HR towbar??)
Thanks for that, I have added it to the 2nd post, where I will endeavour to highlight those critical bits of info.
 

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For the minority that it affects, HR have stated that theirs is also not compatible with the SRT model. I was leaning that way first because of ability to use different tongues, recovery hooks, etc but no go.

I also heard somewhere that the brake controller must not obstruct the knee airbag, do we have any info or how are people getting around this?
 

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My Tekonsha P3 is in the cubby in front of the console, out of sight and out of the way - suits us. I don't need to be looking at it all the time.
Others have fitted them
- below the fuel door latch and between the air bag door and the drivers door, (very tight for a P3)
- below the steering column,
- on top of the dash on the right hand side.
Depends on how handy the installer is, and personal preferences as far as access to the controller and your tolerance for working around it.
Some have used the Redarc remote head unit, with the knob under the fuel latch and the controller body hidden, looks neat but that controller isn't proportioanl and doesn't provide the braking control that a quality proportional type does.
There are plenty of photos around but most are buried in threads on here.
John
 

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Hi,
I can't find an answer to the question to the question Auscop raises as quoted below. The response implies the “receiver hitch” is part of the Trailer Tow Group, but the “towbar” is not. I have always thought that the hitch was another name for the towbar.
From the brochure for the 2013 JGC, it would seem that indeed the hitch is (or at least was for 2013) included in the tow package:
Towing Capability

The Trailer Tow Group includes a Class IV receiver hitch, trailer tow wiring harness and Trailer Sway Control(1) (TSC). The all-new Jeep Grand Cherokee offers trailer tow capability of up to 2,268 kg on models equipped with the Pentastar™ V6 engine(2). Equip your Grand Cherokee with the 3.0-litre CRD diesel engine or legendary 5.7-litre HEMI® engine and you're ready for loads of up to 3,500 kg(2).( http://www.jeep.com.au/features-a-specs/capability/jeep-grand-cherokee-towing ).


I am trying to find out:
  1. Is a hitch different to a tow bar, and what does that mean in this context?
  2. Does the Trailer Tow Group include a hitch, towbar, or both?
  3. Does the 2014 Overland with ORAII include a Trailer Tow Group?

Can anyone shed light on this? I have done various forum searches, but haven't found anything.
Thanks,
Russell
“Quote:
Originally Posted by auscop
The question I still seem to not be able to get answered is does the Overland CRD come standard with the trailer tow pack. By what I saw on the US site and on my build sheet I thought it did. But I saw a bunch of people ordering it with their Overland on the bulk buy group??

REPLY: I think QuadraLift package includes Trailer Tow Grp (7 & 4 pins wiring harness + class IV receiver hitch). Dealer charges extra for tow bar/ball and electric trailer brake.”





 

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Hi, got an email from my dealer today, they are expecting my beautiful Bright White Laredo CRD to arrive Friday or Monday -yay yay yay!!!!
I have a towing question (forgive me, just a non mechanical girl) I am getting a tow bar fitted by the dealer before I pick it up and I'm not sure if I should get Jeep to fit an electric brake controller, a GSL brand? for around $650 or I should get an auto elec to remove the Primus IQ controller from my current car and fit to the JGC? I'm hoping someone knows which would be the best quality electric brake controller to have for towing my small caravan. I figure there will be no tears if Jeep do the installation?
Thanks so much in advance :)
Robbie
 

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Hi Robbie......considering that the GSL is available retail for $105 12V Electric Trailer Brake Controller GSL Remote Head Will Work ON LOW Voltage | eBay
I guess you have part of your question answered. Unfortunately you will find in this and other Jeep forums that dealers generally DON"T get a rap for looking after their customers.
If you go to plan B and have an autoelec remove your Primus and refit I believe you would be well in front. If you are familiar with it and it works presently, there is no reason it will be different with your new Jeep.
Have the installer take the feed for the brake switch from the trailer plug stop light wiring, and there should be no issues or conflict with the vehicle. Mine is wired that way and in 18 months we've clocked up over 30,000k towing - no conflict and works perfectly.
If you want to fit the best quality then that would be the well respected Tekonsha P3 - a set and forget controller that you won't regret purchasing.
A P3 can be wired direct from the battery via a circuit breaker (they go to "sleep" when no movement is detected), and earthed anywhere convenient. Very easy to install - even DIY.
Good luck - and you will be wrapped in your new CRD Laredo!!
John
 

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GC Overland
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
it4vette, I will try to answer your questions.
First of all, the US towbar and hitch is not compliant with Australian regulations, so it is not factory supplied on cars destined for ANZ.
The wiring, which is in the US cars, used for a simple Brake Controller fitting is also not added to our cars.
The towbar, which is the bar that gets bolted to the chassis is supplied by Best Bars in NZ and sold as a Mopar accessory. The Hitch, is the part which slides into the towbar and incorporates the Towball.
If you order a Towbar from the dealer, as part of your purchase, they will install it and supply a hitch and towball, as well as a 7 pin flat socket. The towpack is not standard on any of the models.
 
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GC Overland
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
For the minority that it affects, HR have stated that theirs is also not compatible with the SRT model. I was leaning that way first because of ability to use different tongues, recovery hooks, etc but no go.

I also heard somewhere that the brake controller must not obstruct the knee airbag, do we have any info or how are people getting around this?
As John47 rightfully explained, the locations most popular with mounting a brake controller are
1. In the cubby below the aircon controls. You need to pull the facia off and half of the console. Looks a daunting operation, but not that bad, especially once you have seen it done.
2. Below the fuel release button. If you use a Redarc, there is plenty of room. A P3 will just fit.
3. On the left side of the steering column next to the airbag.

Both items 1, and 3, are close to the airbag, but should just miss it. Also, both of these locations might mean you need to drill holes in the dash.
I am installing a P3 below the fuel release, but to mount it, I am attaching it to a 3mm piece of Perspex, and I will then stick it with either Velcro or double sided tape.
 

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Thanks for the replies, will investigate when I actually have the car to see.

I have seen the photos and instructions of a P3 in the cubby but was not leaning this way as the MY14 has all the ports in there that I don't really want to block.
 
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