[spinxt]

I'm getting some considerable pulsation in my brakes....not too concerned given I put a ton of miles on the vehicle this year (I'm at about 33,400) and I tow about on the weekends.

I measured the rotors with a dial caliper and they have plenty of meat left, so provided I can find a shop to turn them, I think that's the direction I'm going. That said, if I can't find a shop, I'll be stuck buying new rotors as well as pads:

Any suggestions for aftermarket rotors and/or pads? I've had very bad luck over the years with aftermarket rotors (AutoZone, PepBoys, even Napa). The seem to be a lesser quality steel than OEM. Unfortunately the stealership kills you on price.

 

[hummer recovery team]

For pads I love the hawk hps, rotors I used were napa premium.

 

[tomk]

I use Raybestos AT pads/rotors on the WK, I'm a long way from a brakejob on the WK2..

 

[phisch]

I'm at 26k and have experienced an increase in pulsation this summer. This is by far the heaviest car I've ever owned, lots of mass to bring down to zero, but I figured the rotors would have lasted longer than this. There is a new thread of a guy getting powerstop pads and rotors kit from autoanything. Anyone have experience with this brand?
http://www.jeepgarage.org/f109/installed-power-stop-rotors-on-2011-gc-overland-summit-64826.html

 

[The Evil Twin]

I'm getting some considerable pulsation in my brakes....not too concerned given I put a ton of miles on the vehicle this year (I'm at about 33,400) and I tow about on the weekends.

I measured the rotors with a dial caliper and they have plenty of meat left, so provided I can find a shop to turn them, I think that's the direction I'm going. That said, if I can't find a shop, I'll be stuck buying new rotors as well as pads:

Any suggestions for aftermarket rotors and/or pads? I've had very bad luck over the years with aftermarket rotors (AutoZone, PepBoys, even Napa). The seem to be a lesser quality steel than OEM. Unfortunately the stealership kills you on price.

FWIW, take them to whatever parts place you can and have them measure run-out. If they are still straight, don't even have them turned. If you must, then get the older gentleman to do it. He probably has more experience in it. If they are straight, then just pick up some aluminum oxide sandpaper and give 'em a good scuffing in a circular motion.

 

[BlkBetty]

I just replaced my rotors and pads @ 21K as there was a lot of vibration in the steering column when coming to a stop. Thought about having a place turn the rotors since the pads on the outside looked okay, but ended up replacing front/rear and doing it all myself this past weekend. I went with Hawk LTS pads and Centric rotors through amazon and ended up spending about $500.

Changing the fronts was pretty easy. The inner brake pad on both fronts was not contacting the rotor properly and causing uneven wear. The new rotors look good and came with back hubs which was a nice touch since the car is black. Pads went in pretty easy and provide great stopping power on this massive car. The rears were a little harder to get off because of the e-brake pad, but a little pb blaster and a couple of swings with the mallet broke all the rust that had already built up. I used air tools up front and had to use a breaker bar in the rear as everything is cramped.

Local shop was going to charge $80+ for turning the rotors and I figured I might as well just change out everything and be done with it for a while. Good luck either was and let me know if you need any help.

 

[BarryB]

What size tools were needed? Any parts breakdown diagrams available with torque values?

 

[BlkBetty]

What size tools were needed? Any parts breakdown diagrams available with torque values?

I believe the front caliper bolt was 21mm and the rear was 18mm. Besides a screwdriver to get the clip out of the caliper and a mallet to hit the rotors, I didn't use too much else.

 

[Dabitz]

How do the rotors come out? I might replace them soon.

 

[BlkBetty]

Front rotors came out fine with a little PB Blaster and a mallet. Rears were a little more tough because of the e-brake, but I hit it with a mallet a couple of time pretty hard and the rust came right off.

Edit: There is a rubber o-ring that helps hold the old rotors in place. I just used a screwdriver to loosen it from the hub and then tossed it in the garbage as it was pretty worn and cracked. With the PB Blaster I just sprayed in and around bolts, moved the rotors around and then just sprayed again. I found that once I got the wheel off it's best to just spray the rotor then as it will have time to sit while I took apart the caliper and replaced the brake pads.

As a follow up on my original post with the Hawk LTS pads: I'm a little undecided if I like them at this point after driving approx 500 miles. They seem to stop fine, but the noise is unreal for a new set of pads and the brake dust is just as bad as my OEM pads. I've had hawk pads before (ceramics and HPS) on other cars but this compound is much noisier. I did put the grease that came with them on the back of the pads but that didn't help at all. It sounds like I'm driving on a pair of pads that needs to be changed as they've hit the wear sensors. If I wasn't hard up for cash i would just change these out for the ceramics which had lower dust and better stopping power than these or the HPS pads.

 

[BarryB]

I believe the front caliper bolt was 21mm and the rear was 18mm. Besides a screwdriver to get the clip out of the caliper and a mallet to hit the rotors, I didn't use too much else.

thx

Historically I have been using a 3lb hammer with rust penetrating chemicals to get the rotors off, but saw a youtube where a bolt and a couple nuts were placed through the caliper mounting bracket to push off the stuck disc from the back. Renting time on techauthority also looks promising for factory procedures and torque values.