[2012 Summit]

You don't need it to idle 30 min but 5 to prove Raptors (and mine since I claimed it first) statement

I can't hear rappy anymore, but remember two wrongs will never make a right.

 

[Raptor]

You don't need it to idle 30 min but 5 to prove Raptors (and mine since I claimed it first) statement

You do when it's less than 45* out......& why is it that you make a correct statement! :thumbsup:

And I have to argue your point for you? WTF!!

 

[Raptor]

I can't hear rappy anymore, but remember two wrongs will never make a right.

:lol: And unrepentant ignorance can be ignored but can never be helped! :lol:

 

[f1anatic]

You do when it's less than 45* out......& why is it that you make a correct statement! :thumbsup:

And I have to argue your point for you? WTF!!

Did you see the pictures I posted in the PDF ? (well not for a Jeep but a Subaru). The sorcery worked at a balmy 37 Fahrenheit.
:slapfight: We are fighting a common enemy here )))

 

[moosehead]

In before the lock.......

 

[Raptor]

Did you see the pictures I posted in the PDF ? (well not for a Jeep but a Subaru). The sorcery worked at a balmy 37 Fahrenheit.
:slapfight: We are fighting a common enemy here )))

There is no enemy... just ignorance & misinformation as to how a WK2 cooling system is designed to work.

You do know that many other vehicles may operate the same way, but that doesn't have any bearing at all on what a 2011+ WK2 will or will not do cooling system wise. Just because a Subaru does something doesn't mean it's also true for a Jeep. Thats why I posted my real world experiences in a Jeep! :thumbsup:

 

[f1anatic]

Well I don't have the Jeep yet, but I was pretty sure it worked the same way ) My HID-lit crystal ball worked fine yet again.

 

[bill_de]

Your mission, if you choose to accept it, is to answer those questions for all of us. Really! I'd love to know!

Received minutes ago;

Dear Bill :<O></O>
<O></O>
Thank you for contacting the Chrysler Customer Assistance Center. <O></O>
<O></O>
According to our records the heavy duty cooling system in the 2014 Grand Cherokee includes a bigger radiator, different engine wiring harness, and different cooling module compared to standard equipment.<O></O>
<O></O>
Thanks again for your email. <O></O>
<O></O>

 

[2012 Summit]

Thanks for sharing. Funny Jeep didn't mention the increased capacity fan

 

[jacko15]

Thanks Bill. The more info the better!

 

[ColdCase]

If you need a precise answer, the parts book and on line parts outlets are often a good source of information. There you find that the 2011 HD radiator has a different part number than a 2011 standard radiator.. for one. They are interchangeable, but one has a bit more size/weight/cooling capacity/$$$. Instead of whining here, just get off your butts and look up the parts you think may be different and determine if there is a HD cooling application part number... have fun, its actually pretty easy to do

 

[TheHeartBreaker]

Received minutes ago;

Dear Bill :<O></O>
<O></O>
Thank you for contacting the Chrysler Customer Assistance Center. <O></O>
<O></O>
According to our records the heavy duty cooling system in the 2014 Grand Cherokee includes a bigger radiator, different engine wiring harness, and different cooling module compared to standard equipment.<O></O>
<O></O>
Thanks again for your email. <O></O>
<O></O>

Will add to that

Trailer Tow Group IV – Heavy-duty engine cooling, engine
oil cooler, 220-amp alternator, rear load-leveling suspension
(not available with Quadra-Lift air suspension system), fullsize spare tire, steel spare wheel, Class IV receiver hitch
with seven- and four-pin wiring harness​

 

[bill_de]

Will add to that

Trailer Tow Group IV – Heavy-duty engine cooling, engine
oil cooler, 220-amp alternator, rear load-leveling suspension
(not available with Quadra-Lift air suspension system), fullsize spare tire, steel spare wheel, Class IV receiver hitch

with seven- and four-pin wiring harness​

The question was, what comprises heavy duty cooling. I'm not sure a trailer hitch is part of that.



.

 

[Raptor]

I was just reading a new thread on engine oil and tranny temps today which made me think of this old thread.

Link to that new thread;

http://www.jeepgarage.org/f222/transmission-and-oil-temperatures-71455-2.html

Link to post #19 of that thread by Pete_K;

http://www.jeepgarage.org/f222/transmission-and-oil-temperatures-71455-2.html#post987750

Which I have cut and pasted below;

*********************************************************************************
For reference, the highest trans temp I've seen was in snow mode creeping in horrible traffic (during the embarrassing snowmageddon experience here in Atlanta--spent 9 hours to go 15 miles including rescuing stranded people). My trans temp creeped up to 217F. Traffic was barely moving in the ice and snow for several hours. Starting in second in snow mode likely had something to do with it. Engine oil temp hovered between 226F and 235F.

The transmission temp would creep up to that max then the engine fan would come on and it would VERY quickly drop to 205-206F, fan would cycle down and it would creep up again. So, I turned on the A/C (keeping the heat on high) which kept the fan on a low cycle all the time and the trans temp then rapidly fell to 188F and stayed there.

In everyday driving mine will reach 194-197F EVENTUALLY. In stop and go with constant accelerations being used it might hit this temp and hover there after 15-20 minutes of this. On a highway trip, starting from a trans temp of 80F or so, it will take anywhere from 45-60 miles before it finally reaches 195F or so, depending on whether I have any spirited accelerations along the way.

Note: neither the trans oil temp or engine oil temps seem to be super accurate throughout the full range. When the vehicle has totally cooled to ambient (overnight or longer) my engine oil and trans temps will tend to read notably higher than ambient before startup. For example, this morning it was 39F outside and my oil and trans temps read 64F. This may be the bottom of the scale as I'm not sure if I've seen them lower, or it might be these particular sensors (same ones as the coolant temp sensor) are more inaccurate outside their center scale (pretty common for these types of sensors actually).
*********************************************************************************

Note the unedited blue bold paragraph I have highlighted from Mr Pete_K's post. What does this mean & what does this have to do with the discussion from this old thread?....... That as I have correctly posted several times in this thread ~ manually turning on your A/C will immediately engage the engine cooling fan which in turn will immediately begin to lower your coolant temps, tranny fluid temp., and engine oil temp. Just as Pete_K observed in his WK2 & I observed in mine!

This is how the engineers at Chrysler designed a WK2's cooling system to work. Not just my WK2 but everyone's WK2, even those who have posted in this thread who either don't believe me, or the facts!

 

[mswlogo]

Oh I will explain and prove it no worries. Give me about 2 hrs. But if you think that the compressor runs all the time you are wrong. Just like the fridge it cycles as for the refrigerant to not freeze the pipes/clutch. The heat exchange is actually different than how you think

Doesn't matter if the compressor runs all the time or not. The condenser gets hot and that is mounted usually in front of the Radiator which will preheat the air before it hits the radiator. Even if it was behind it, it would still generate more heat. This is regardless of the added load on the engine for the compressor making it generate more heat as well. They also run pretty constant when it's really hot.

That only took me 20 seconds

It's probably the worst thing you could possibly do is turn on the A/C when you are concerned about overheating.

Now if you could run the A/C as a heat pump, that might help.

 

[Raptor]

Doesn't matter if the compressor runs all the time or not. The condenser gets hot and that is mounted usually in front of the Radiator which will preheat the air before it hits the radiator. Even if it was behind it, it would still generate more heat. This is regardless of the added load on the engine for the compressor making it generate more heat as well. They also run pretty constant when it's really hot.

That only took me 20 seconds

It's probably the worst thing you could possibly do is turn on the A/C when you are concerned about overheating.

Now if you could run the A/C as a heat pump, that might help.

Did you read any of this thread before you posted??

Yes if your WK2 is overheating because for some reason your cooling system is damaged or otherwise not operating as designed you would not want to turn the A/C on............... but if your cooling system is operating as designed with no issues or problems....
Turning the A/C on, which immediately kicks the engine cooling fan on, will lower the coolant temps and eventually lower the temps of your oil and tranny fluid!!

 

[mswlogo]

Did you read any of this thread before you posted??

Yes if your WK2 is overheating because for some reason your cooling system is damaged or otherwise not operating as designed you would not want to turn the A/C on............... but if your cooling system is operating as designed with no issues or problems....
Turning the A/C on, which immediately kicks the engine cooling fan on, will lower the coolant temps and eventually lower the temps of your oil and tranny fluid!!

If it NEEDS the cooling fan (i.e. overheating), it would already be on, especially on a system "with no issues or problems....".

If the fan is not on, it's not overheating in the first place.

So you'd still just be adding heat.

 

[Raptor]

If it NEEDS the cooling fan (i.e. overheating), it would already be on, especially on a system "with no issues or problems....".

If the fan is not on, it's not overheating in the first place.

So you'd still just be adding heat.

Again I'll ask did you actually read any of this thread before you posted in it??

When your idle coolant temp. is over 220* F on a WK2 the cooling fan is still not on! Before you tell me at 220*F the fan should already be on, it won't be, because it wasn't designed to kick on until 224*F!...... Try it in your driveway and you'll see for yourself. A Jeep WK2 will immediately start to lower coolant temps when the A/C in turned on manually, which immediately activates the engines cooling fan!! Turning on the A/C is this instance (coolant over 220*F, fan still not engaged, at idle, not moving, or moving very slowly)........will not increase the coolant temp. it will by design, decrease it! Even if your adding heat to the system by activating the A/C!

 

[jp467]

Doesn't matter if the compressor runs all the time or not. The condenser gets hot and that is mounted usually in front of the Radiator which will preheat the air before it hits the radiator. Even if it was behind it, it would still generate more heat. This is regardless of the added load on the engine for the compressor making it generate more heat as well. They also run pretty constant when it's really hot.

That only took me 20 seconds

It's probably the worst thing you could possibly do is turn on the A/C when you are concerned about overheating.

Now if you could run the A/C as a heat pump, that might help.

The cooling fan runs whenever the compressor is on so the engine coolant usually ends up running cooler. Just watch the temp on your wk2 when the air is off the coolant will get to 224 before the fan comes on. When the air is on it never gets anywhere near 224 it stays around 205.

 

[airjeep]

I wouldn't be too concerned about any engine temperature under 240º. As long it it doesn't boil over.

Leaving Death Valley last Feb. saw temps of 225-230 or so while pulling our travel trailer of 7000# plus. Max speed WFO of 43 mph, half throttle 40 mph or so. Oil temps close to 240. Normal temps when towing 210-220 coolant, oil 220 or so.

This winter coolant temps (non-towing) run around 190º vs 200 summer, oil 180 vs 190-200ºF. Cooling fans seem to cut in around 225-230ºF.

Oil temps are more of a concern to me being over 200ºF, as each 20º step over 200º cuts oil life in half, at least it did in the seventies.

A/C works by the heat gained or lost by phase change. Water going from liquid to vapor takes heat. That is why you sweat on a hot day or pour water over one's self to keep cool.

The compressor increases the pressure of the gas until it condenses (becomes a liquid) in the condenser. This allows the heat to be cooled by the air flowing over the fins. The liquid then flows into the evaporator via an orifice. At this point it becomes a gas again as the pressure drops below the vapor pressure of the liquid. Remember this is the suction side of the compressor. The air passes over the evaporator which is cooler than the air and heats the gas. Part of the reason for the compressor cycling on and off is due to high pressure in either the low (liquid) or suction (gas) lines. This can occur if the system is over charged with gas.