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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just got my 2016 Jeep a month ago and had already planned to do this upgrade since I love having Apple CarPlay on my other cars. Did the same type of swap on my 2015 Mustang (Ford started CarPlay with Sync 3 in 2016, of course) and it was a bit more involved than the Jeep. The Jeep was super easy to do, really. The Mustang I had to make my own custom adapter for the USB hub, get an aftermarket GPS antenna, and use a program similar to AlfaOBD to program the new radio. None of that needed for the Jeep! Got everything for a grand total of $637.70, which is a far cry from the $1600 that Infotainment wants for the exact same thing! Here's the steps I took and it worked flawlessly:

1. The hard part: Obtain new or preferably used radio. I used Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market to search radios from 2018-2019 Grand Cherokees. I'm told the ones from Dodge Rams will work too. See the list below on vehicles you should be able to get a bolt-in Uconnect 4 from. Be careful searching, as it seems a lot of the junkyards that use this site don't properly categorize them or don't even put full descriptions on them, so you likely will have to call some of them. I had two that had just sold them too, so updated in-stock status isn't guaranteed either. Some will respond to the chat button which is nice since I was doing it from the office during the day LOL. Make sure it also includes both the screen and the module its attached to, some people are selling them separate for some reason. I got my radio for $500 + $30 shipping from a wrecked 2018 GC Laredo that had the optional 8.4 NAV system from a junkyard out of Michigan. I confirmed which system it had by doing a window sticker search on the VIN using this link and filling in the VIN right after the "vin=". If you desired to keep factory NAV like me, this was very handy to confirm the vehicle had optional NAV. Harder to find on the Rams I noticed. If you don't care if it has NAV you can likely have better chances finding a good deal. I only want it for those times I'm in the mountains and don't get good cell reception, just in case! If going for a new one, it can be very confusing on the part numbers. My used one is 68306656AP, but I can't find that for sale on Mopar sites. I can find many with the same numbers but different letter suffixes, and they are all around $1200-1300 depending on the website.

"https://www.chrysler.com/hostd/windowsticker/getWindowStickerPdf.do?vin=xxxxxxxxxxxxxx"

2. Obtain the USB hub replacement, either new or from wrecked vehicle. I tried to get the one from the same GC I got the radio from, but they apparently were selling it with the whole console. I just ended up getting a new one from Parts Maven online. They were the cheapest with shipping (even cheaper than my local dealer would do and I have a commercial account with them). They did take forever to get it to me, though. P/N is 68323663AE. Got it for $107.70 shipped. Link to it here: https://www.partsmaven.com/mopar/oem...hub-68323663ae

3. Now when swapping radios like this, the new radio will require the anti-theft PIN code to unlock it. There are a few ways to get this from what I understand. I was lucky, and contacted the junkyard I bought mine from and he had a contact at Chrysler that was able to get it for me. Easy peasy. Other options are: contact any dealer to see if they will do it over the phone, some will I hear. Most probably require you to prove you didn't steal it, which makes sense. So get a receipt for the radio when you buy it, bring it in to the dealer parts department and they should be able to help you out. Another easy route is there are several people on eBay selling this as a service for around $20-30, which might be easier.

4. Install the new radio and new hub just like they show on Infotainment's guide. Link here:


5. When you boot it up and it asks for the PIN, use the one you got in Step 3 above.

6. Everything should work great! Even if your car has different options than the one it came off of (like mine), it still carried over all my settings and everything worked; AC/Heat, heated seats/wheel, etc. All that info is stored in the BCM and not the radio (unlike the Fords), so no extra programming was necessary! I did have to go through and delete all the previous owner's phones and what not, but no big deal. You will have to repair your phone to it, and of course setup CarPlay or Android Auto if you are using those.

7. Sell your old radio either on forums, eBay, or straight to Infotainment. I hear the RA4 (Nav) is worth around $400-500, so I will get this all hopefully for minimum investment! Note I haven't sold mine yet; plan to see what Infotainment would give me first. EDIT: Infotainment never got back to me on my quote request, so I sold it on eBay and got $500 for the radio and old USB hub. Even after eBay and Paypal fees my net on this project was still only about $200! Totally worth it.

List of vehicles you can get the Uconnect 4/4C from that should all bolt in directly to GC:

2018 Dodge/SRT Viper
2019 Jeep Cherokee
2018-2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee
2018-2019 Ram Truck 1500-5500
 

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Nice write up! Thanks definitely better than going for the 1600 from infotainment...I havent kept up much with the forums but any issues with uconnect paid service after the swap?
 

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I agree, nice write-up. I was shocked to realize mine came from a Cherokee, I didn't realize they were compatible.

I'll be keeping my old Nav unit. I can see the dealer complaining about my MaxCare warranty in the future if I have any issues and blaming it on the UAQ causing problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Nice write up! Thanks definitely better than going for the 1600 from infotainment...I havent kept up much with the forums but any issues with uconnect paid service after the swap?
I haven't tried, but from what I've read the Uconnect paid services on the RA-systems is not compatible with the UA-systems. The UA-systems use Sirius Guardian for remote connection etc, but I haven't heard of anyone having success activating it since it is tied to the VIN and there must be some compatibility issues there. From what I can see, this is the only thing you lose by doing the upgrade. Not an issue for me since I didn't have a desire to pay for those services.
 

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I agree, nice write-up. I was shocked to realize mine came from a Cherokee, I didn't realize they were compatible.

I'll be keeping my old Nav unit. I can see the dealer complaining about my MaxCare warranty in the future if I have any issues and blaming it on the UAQ causing problems.
Yeah I figured that out since one of the write-ups on here from someone using an Infotainment kit had a P/N that cross-referenced to a RAM!

On my Fords, I was able to get one out of a Focus and Escape even though I put them in a Mustang. Brackets were different but carried over from the old unit. Handy the auto companies are keeping things as common as possible these days! :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
https://www.infotainment.com/products/infotainment-4c-retrofit-interface?variant=5355150606372&currency=USD&gclid=CjwKCAjw583nBRBwEiwA7MKvoH5DGM3YLVpun_kTd_GYlFBKC6fRdetP0giz-w36wo8tHWuyhruNdhoCr8QQAvD_BwE

I have a 2014 with the RA4 radio. do I need the above plugs to make a 2018 radio work. My radio is crapped out and the nav is saying I am in Texas. thanks.
If you have front heated/vented seats and heated wheel, then it does look like you'll need that harness. I forgot about that issue with 2014 GCs which appears to be the only year that needs that harness.
 

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I’m holding off for now hoping someone figures out how to get Uconnect and Sirius guardian working...
I'm not sure if it ever will work. If the infotainment guys haven't figured it out, it may not be possible. I bet is has something to do with the way the radio interfaces with the ECU/BCM to do the remote starting/unlocking and what not. Must be some minor differences between the ECUs/BCMs or other connected modules that limit that feature. Could be wrong but I will still try and get mine working once i find the time to call their customer support to give it a shot.
 

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My understanding was it down to the VIN association. Guardian works based off of your VIN. The MY15-17 are not in the Guardian database and are not able to be activated. We're also lacking an LTE antenna according to AlfaODB.
 

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I’m holding off for now hoping someone figures out how to get Uconnect and Sirius guardian working...
That will probably be "never"...of course, the alternative is to buy a MY18+ JGC that comes with the head unit you want :)
 

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You won't regret it. If you have memory seats make sure to save your radio presets and icon tray to the memory seat number.
 

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I got the radio. 2014 limited. I bought the adapter to force the heated seats and vents from u connect. The 4c and ra4 have different connections in the back. Only one of the rca tutor connectors connected to my 4c radio. Everything works except the god/sxm. Which one is the GPS adapter? The mustard one from the car to where on the back of the 4c radio? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I got the radio. 2014 limited. I bought the adapter to force the heated seats and vents from u connect. The 4c and ra4 have different connections in the back. Only one of the rca tutor connectors connected to my 4c radio. Everything works except the god/sxm. Which one is the GPS adapter? The mustard one from the car to where on the back of the 4c radio? Thanks.
Check this thread. I remember having the same concern installing mine since connectors were different. I believe it’s the similar colored one you want to connect it to on the radio. I can’t remember which one I did but it worked for me first try 🙂

https://jeepgarage.org/f155/photos-installing-uaq-radio-in-2017-summit-176698.html#/topics/176698?page=1
 

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Good thread.


I did a similar install on my daughters 2016 WK2; I picked up a 2018 Laredo radio from ebay and the seller even had it coded for our vin. Plug and play, radio works great as does CarPlay, but I can’t get SXM to work. Everything is plugged in but no joy. Dealer is clueless too.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Good thread.


I did a similar install on my daughters 2016 WK2; I picked up a 2018 Laredo radio from ebay and the seller even had it coded for our vin. Plug and play, radio works great as does CarPlay, but I can’t get SXM to work. Everything is plugged in but no joy. Dealer is clueless too.
My SXM worked fine, actually I didn't have SXM activated with the old radio but I think this new one is still on the trial from the previous owner on the new radio! Is it not working at all, like not giving you the preview station, or is it just not activating? I wonder if whoever coded it for the VIN messed something up. I didn't have mine coded at all (I assume the VIN in the radio still matches the donor Jeep), but it doesn't seem to affect anything for me. I did have to get the security code for the radio but the junkyard that sold it to me was able to get it from their local Jeep dealer.
 

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My SXM worked fine, actually I didn't have SXM activated with the old radio but I think this new one is still on the trial from the previous owner on the new radio! Is it not working at all, like not giving you the preview station, or is it just not activating? I wonder if whoever coded it for the VIN messed something up. I didn't have mine coded at all (I assume the VIN in the radio still matches the donor Jeep), but it doesn't seem to affect anything for me. I did have to get the security code for the radio but the junkyard that sold it to me was able to get it from their local Jeep dealer.


My SXM isn’t working at all, no sound. I’ve connected the antenna and gps leads to the radio and I confirmed that the Jeep has the correct shark fin antenna.

Mine is the 7” unit with CarPlay, not the 8.4, but that doesn’t matter.
 

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My SXM isn’t working at all, no sound. I’ve connected the antenna and gps leads to the radio and I confirmed that the Jeep has the correct shark fin antenna.

Mine is the 7” unit with CarPlay, not the 8.4, but that doesn’t matter.
Are you sure you got the antenna connected to the correct terminal? I know the 8.4 radio has multiple places you could connect it to (see above posts/thread I linked to). Not sure what the 7" units have.
 
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