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As I said in another thread:

They are saying running up to B5 will be fine, but when you start hitting B20 you will need to start taking into account the need to change/monitor your oil often.

Failing to do so could have rather unpleasant consequences for your engine (and thusly... warranty)

I can go into the gory details of why if you want.
 

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Well... short of draining your tank and testing... there's no way for them to know...

The Computer may have some info, (as Bio has a lower flashpoint, and thus, less energy) but, that's about it.

Otherwise, they will know if you go into Hydrolock.

The dealer may note that you have extra crankcase oil when you change it, but, that would happen if you have any B value fuel (which, most stations around here are running atleast B5).
 

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Correction, biodiesel has a higher flashpoint (temperature at which it ignites).
Doh... right.

Meant Higher. :p

Basically, it is injected post combustion and if it was normal diesel, it would ignite in the system, but as it's Bio and has the higher flashpoint, just sticks to the cylinder wall/piston and will make it's way into the crankcase oil as a result (bad juju occurs at this point).

If you fail to keep a close eye on your oil levels, you will eventually end up with too much oil. That will eventually end up with (if left uncorrected) in Hydrolock and thusly, bent rods (if you are lucky).

If you have access to cheap and plentiful CRD approved oil (low ash), you can run B100 in this thing. However, you will be changing your oil every few thousand miles (maybe a few thousand)...
 

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Here ya go:

2007+ Diesel Emissions & Biodiesel; Not All That Rosy | Utah Biodiesel Supply Blog

I've had a couple TDI and CRD engines (in a VW and a Merc). And I ran B100 in them just fine and was ready to buy one of these little processors to make my own happy juice.

...right up until I read this article.

You could still run a higher B value diesel, but you will have to keep a close eye on your oil and change it often (unless the Jeep engine is rigged up differently, but I can't find much info on that front).
 
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Most places around here run B5-B20... so I can't avoid it.

I figure I'll just keep an eyeball on the oil and take her in for a change every 8-9k.

There are ways around it, but, I'm sure as hell not cutting into my brand new $50k Jeep, and am a touch unnerved at the idea of flashing the computer (screw that up and you just bricked your car...).
 
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