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I recently put bora 1 inch and 1.25 on my wk2 I’m noticing some wheel shake at certain highway speeds. I’m going to be putting new tires and road force balance soon see if it helps
 

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2008 Jeep JKU
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Did you make sure there was no dirt between the spacer and the hub when putting them on? Also your supposed to retorque after 50 to 100 miles to make sure the spacers are tight.
 

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Do you have OEM wheels with the proper offset or non-WK2 wheels with a different offset, cause that adds up with the spacers....

Just to add to blackJku said, not only dirt, anything, corrosion, built up lube or anti-seize, debris, anything. i.e. take a wire brush to the surfaces, all of them that stack up on that hub, not only the spacer, the wheel, the rotor (both sides and the hub itself...... make sure it is clean and flat......

The problem with spacers or aftermarket wheels with a different offset, you change the scrub radius of the suspension.....
So the forces from and too the tires on the pavement, with the proper offset, all balance out and its neutral, i.e. nothing pulling the wheels outward or inward....
Change the offset with spacers or different wheels with a different offset the forces don't balance and they will pull the wheels outward and inward as the forces change......

Your suspension can resist those forces and keep the wheels straight and that won't be a problem. There are rubber bushings in the suspension that will allow some deflection, so going too far in changing the offset, the greater the forces will be and they could overcome the suspensions ability to resist the forces pulling the wheels inward/outward, likely it will be the bushings deflecting doing that, and you get the wheels shaking.....

If you have suspension wear and have ball joints or bushings that are worn and allow more give and take then when they are new.... ....well, with the proper offset and scrub radius, that balances the forces from/to the tires, the suspension might ride just fine, there is still a lot of wear left before it gets so loose it affects the vehicle ride.... ....but if you've changed the offset with spacers and/or different offset wheels, the forces to/from the tires aren't balanced and they are fighting the suspension, and the little bit of give and take in the suspension is now enough to let the wheels shake and vibrate.....

That's my suspicion why some people don't have a problem with spacers and/or different offset wheels, while others do have problems with the exact same equipment, the one with the problem have suspension wear somewhere allowing the shake/vibration that spacer/wheel offset if prone to cause.....

And blackjku's suggestion is also another equally valid possibility, something between all the things sandwiched on the hub, could cause a change in runout and the spacer will exaggerate the runout, and that could cause the shakes/vibration.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The rotors where practically new so the mating surfaces where clean and I cleaned whatever had to be. The fronts are 1” bora and rear are 1.25 bora I am going to pull the wheels to make sure they are tight. I also have new tires I am putting on soon that will be road force balanced. they are oem 20” wheels
 

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I have the same issue after I put on my 1" bora spacers. I felt a vibration about 65 - 75 mph. I have factory wheels and brand new tires so they were just balanced. I rotated the tires just to make sure there was something I was missing, but the vibration was still there. I also had them re-torqued to make sure they didn't come loose or move. Still no luck. I reached out to Motorsport Tech to see what the next steps were and they advised me to send them back to have them inspect the spacers. They should receive them back today and hopefully I will have more information tomorrow. I noticed when the spacers were removed, there is a small rubber o-ring around the hub. Can anyone tell me if this is supposed to be removed prior to install? See attached picture.
 

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I have the same issue after I put on my 1" bora spacers. I felt a vibration about 65 - 75 mph. I have factory wheels and brand new tires so they were just balanced. I rotated the tires just to make sure there was something I was missing, but the vibration was still there. I also had them re-torqued to make sure they didn't come loose or move. Still no luck. I reached out to Motorsport Tech to see what the next steps were and they advised me to send them back to have them inspect the spacers. They should receive them back today and hopefully I will have more information tomorrow. I noticed when the spacers were removed, there is a small rubber o-ring around the hub. Can anyone tell me if this is supposed to be removed prior to install? See attached picture.

That's the first time i've seen a O ring there, the spacer could have pinched the O and caused it to be the problem. If it was my truck i'd just remove the O rings.
 

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The O-Ring is from the Assembly line. It's just there to speed up assembly, when they put the rotors on, they put the O-ring over the hub to fit in the groove to keep the rotors on upright, as it moves to the next station to have the calipers installed.....

The FSM says to discard it if you have to remove it....

So yes, you should have pulled that O-Ring and tossed it..... ....I don't know if it caused a problem, but it's possible...

Spacers are going to change the scrub radius of the suspension, the forces from/to the tires through the suspension will be out of balance and they will try to torque the wheels in and out with changes in suspension..... ....the links in your suspension should be able to resist this and keep the wheels straight, of course the greater the spacer the greater the forces, so you get 2" spacers you should be surprised the wheels shake, vibrate or wobble.....

You suspension links should be able to resist the wheels pulling in/out from a small change in scrub radius, that requires those links and their bushings/ball joints all be in good shape..... ....worn suspension pieces, or a bad alignment, can very easily cause no vibrations with zero scrub radius (OEM setup) but cause vibrations with an inch or more increase in scrub radius....
 

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I talked to someone at Motorsport Tech today. I told him the situation and about the emails sent back and forth to Brad and Lenny (the owner). The guy began to tell me that the issue is because I didn't cut the the factory wheel studs and that they were causing the vibration. He stated tha'ts why people usually go with 1.25" and 1.5" spacers instead of 1" spacers. He knew this because he said he has been putting these spacers on Grand Cherokees for years. Seems odd because there are a lot of people out there with 1" spacers and no issues and no discussion of cutting the studs. I told him the wheels have pockets that clear the factory studs, but he wanted me to send him a picture of the back of the wheels which I had already sent in an email to them (which is why they told me to send the spacers back). The guy found my email and said that I only sent a picture of one wheel and that I needed to send a picture of all the wheels because Jeeps have different length wheel studs on the back than the front. At this point in time I thought I accidentally called AutoZone. I could be wrong but I have never heard of such a thing. I told the guy that none of the wheels had any marks inside indicating the wheel studs where hitting and causing any vibrations. I again, told him about the emails that had gone back and fourth and that Lenny had requested that I send them back. He told me that he would try to find the box and call me next week with some news on them.
 

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I've heard of it the wheel studs will stick out past the flat area where the wheel sits and when you tighten the wheel studs the wheel is just tightened against the ends of the studs that are on the Jeep. After the spacer is bolted on lay a flat edge across the flat part of the spacer and slide it across the Jeeps wheel studs and see if the flat edge stops when it hits a stud. I hope you can follow what i'm saying.
 

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If you have a dial gauge you could spin the wheel installed without the spacers and measure total runout. Then put the spacers on and remeasure and see if it's significantly worse.
 

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Just giving a little update. It has now been over 7 weeks since Motorsport tech has received my wheel spacers back. I have called them multiple times and talked to the owner Lenny and every time I talk to him he tells me that they are making a new set and should be out in a few days. I have heard this same crap 3 times now and I called again today and got the same run around. All Lenny could tell me that "it is what it is" and said it was because I sent my wheel spacers back from my work and one of his employees took it home thinking it was his pet food!! The dude is a complete dick and I hope to hell no one does business with someone like that.
 

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When I ordered my spacers from Lenny, he was a great guy to talk with. I actually had him make me spacers for my '15 Grand Cherokee and spacers for my 911 race car.

FWIW- I ordered his 3/4" spacers to run behind my stock 20" Overland/HA 5 spoke wheels that I use with my Nokian snow tires. He was concerned that he'd heard the stock studs were too long to use the thinner 3/4" but sent me one to test fit. I bolted everything together with some modeling clay on the wheel pockets and had 5-6mm of clearance. I ran the 3/4" spacers all winter behind the stock wheels and didn't have even the slightest bit of vibration. Silky smooth even at 80mph. And with the 3/4" there has been no adverse handling effect from altering the scrub radius. Larger spacers might do that but not these.

And the 25mm spacers (real spacers to run with the extra long 100mm wheel studs on the race car, not the adapter style that we all use for the Grand Cherokee) for the Porsche are absolutely perfect too, zero vibration at 7,200 rpm on the chassis dyno. Haven't gotten to the track yet with all the race closures.

Now if I could get my brand new 20x9 SRT rep wheels and Toyo 295/45-20 tires to balance out. We've been through 6 wheels so far to find 4 that are round. On wheel took 5.5oz of weight without the tire, you could see the wheel bouncing on the balancer. I've decided that the OE Creations replica wheels are junk.
 

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Had to grind the wheel studs about 3mm to fit 1" spacers all around. The rear studs were about 1mm longer than the front studs.
 
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