Excellent. Thanks. I’ll likely to that on my 2018 before next winter.
What did you do to your WK2 today?
5841 - 5852 of 5852 Posts
Yes, but honestly aftermarket battery and doing yourself will be much cheaper. OEM batteries are crazy priced, then labor from dealership as well. It's about a 20 minute, possibly less job and done.
after being annoyed by the only silver in my car being the shifter panel and usb/storage door, I tried out the fake carbon fiber overlay from amazon. picked up the fake carbon shift knob overlay too. was surprised at shift knob cover’s exact fit. I’ll live with it for now. I might just wrap them in gloss black to match everything once spring rolls around.
Attachments
I've been contemplating the CF interior or maybe just wrapping things. Still on the fence what I want to do.
Did something really stupid. When i was removing the battery under the passenger seat i put the seatbelt around the head of the seat to get it out of my way and ended up getting it stuck totally and locked! Now i can’t get the seatbelt to loosen up so i can get it off from around the seat.
Any suggestions? I’ve tried to remove the head of the seat and can’t
![IMG_9323.jpg]()
Any suggestions? I’ve tried to remove the head of the seat and can’t
Can you post the link to overlay
Finished putting on the last Moog end link today. Put on the fronts a month ago (K750578 and K750579) and rears this week (K750573). Have 103,000 miles on the JGC so it was time. Probably should have done them sooner.
Installation was easy. Getting the old ones out was a PITA. Likely if you do these at less than 100K and 7 1/2 years, the nuts may come off without much trouble. The fronts were easier, didn't have to cut any of the four bolts. The rear, had to cut 3 of the four bolts off. Jacked it up nearly 20 inches (jack height) and it was easy to cut them off. Top two were really easy to cut, the bottom one took a little while longer. A flex head ratcheting 18mm wrench will really come in handy for loosening the nuts. Also, for installing the rears, loosen the sway bar with your impact wrench and for the lower bolts (holding the sway bar) have someone pull down on the muffler pipe. Next time it will be very easy to swap them out as the replacements don't require holding the bolt at the end and using a ratcheting wrench to loosen as the bolt has a fixed nut on it to hold it from turning. Have a pass through socket set, but the ratcheting wrench worked better.
I can definitely feel a difference with the new end links. The old ones were definitely shot once I pulled them out and checked them ... no resistance.
Installation was easy. Getting the old ones out was a PITA. Likely if you do these at less than 100K and 7 1/2 years, the nuts may come off without much trouble. The fronts were easier, didn't have to cut any of the four bolts. The rear, had to cut 3 of the four bolts off. Jacked it up nearly 20 inches (jack height) and it was easy to cut them off. Top two were really easy to cut, the bottom one took a little while longer. A flex head ratcheting 18mm wrench will really come in handy for loosening the nuts. Also, for installing the rears, loosen the sway bar with your impact wrench and for the lower bolts (holding the sway bar) have someone pull down on the muffler pipe. Next time it will be very easy to swap them out as the replacements don't require holding the bolt at the end and using a ratcheting wrench to loosen as the bolt has a fixed nut on it to hold it from turning. Have a pass through socket set, but the ratcheting wrench worked better.
I can definitely feel a difference with the new end links. The old ones were definitely shot once I pulled them out and checked them ... no resistance.
Here you go. If you get it, heat it with a hair dryer to make it more bendable. The storage lid took the longest to position correctly.
5841 - 5852 of 5852 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!