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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Winpower headlight install and pitfalls

my jeep: 2011 overland with factory HID (after pic)



purchase link as advised by user MHF_SRT here.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0M7J52/

use this video to remove the front end, not near as bad as it seems
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DX7-Inc_rQA

notes for bumper removal:
-plastic rivots in front of the front tires, i pressed the center through the back side to remove, they do not 'pop up' like the engine bay trim panels. these i had to replace with new 'barbed' type from auto store afterwards
-my grill stayed on the truck, but an additional support behind the bumper needed to be removed (10mm) prior to getting the headlights free.
-you really need to yank the bumper a bit to get it to pop free

the headlights will come with an extra piece of hardware and a bracket (maybe for compass or newer wk2?) that i removed.



keep in mind when troubleshooting any issues that the 'inside' of the light pair on the stock bulbs is the drl, and the outside (my HID) is low AND high beams.
the new lights the DRL is the glow ring and the insight lights are high beam, outside lights are low beam

used this video for help with the headlights and wiring
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=drVw5w0Qwq8

During this video they swap polarity on the DRL plug. this was what I needed to do to get the new DRL ring to work (and it is easier to use a pick to re-pin the plug than cut/solder. Since it is originally for a regular bulb, if you need to go back to stock it will still work.



The auto leveling of the headlights is no longer used or at least the WK2 connector is different from the connector on the new headlights. it is 3 pin vs. 4 pin i wonder if I can rewire it to work, but at a minimum a connector would need to be sourced.



Also since the DRL 'doubles' as the park light, the original park light 2 wire connector will not be used (unless you send power from it's white wire to the yellow on the new DRL). You can see in the video the two brightnesses.

This means that of the stock 5 connectors, only 3 are reused.



Park light and leveler plug taped up



Also note my tan / flat connectors busted on both sides when I tried to remove, and I needed to work some magic with zip ties to secure to the new lights.

I mounted the new ballast (because it does not fit in the OEM ballast mount) here using some self drilling/tapping #10 screws to the plastic support, as well as to the body for the new extra ground.



Once installed is much easier to adjust the lights before putting the engine bay trim back in place.
note that the up/down adjuster is at the auto leveling plug, and the left to right adjuster is where the stock park light used to be.



I think it was actually a pretty easy job, the hard part was that none of this information was available in the same spot (until this post); So it should save you all much time and frustration.

I have heard some of this may not be the same for non-HID or other years, so be careful.

Oh I forgot another important thing I really had to dig for!!

TO RUN THE DRL MY TRUCK HAD TO BE RUNNING AND IN DRIVE OR NEUTRAL WITH THE E-BRAKE OFF.
-I spent a couple extra hours beating my head to find that out, because the DRL does not operate when you just key on to test the rest of the functions. Further confusion came from my stock DRL bulbs being blown, and the original wiring instruction for the lights being incorrect.
 

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Re: Winpower headlight install and pitfalls

Good post brother 馃憤馃徑


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Nice work! Please keep us posted about the auto leveling feature as its crucial to work in order to pass MOT, here in EU :(
 

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Nice work and appreciate the write up. I have a set waiting to install and this will be very useful.

Did you use the included bulbs as well or go with a different bulb setup? How's the light output compared to the OEM HID setup?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nice work and appreciate the write up. I have a set waiting to install and this will be very useful.

Did you use the included bulbs as well or go with a different bulb setup?

i used what came with them, no issues at all with any of that, all very bright and seem excellent initial quality.
 

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To enable the park light feature on your OEM harness.

Remove the middle pin from the brown connector and place it into the middle position of the DRL connector.

The wire on the right side is White with an Orange stripe and on the Left it is White with a Purple stripe.

you can do this mod to any 2011-2013 Grand cherokee with Bi-xenon headlights. This is how FCA came up with the White parklight/Running light needed in certain export markets.

This is corfirmed, I did this mod, You can also call it the SRT park light mod.


No cutting or splicing required.


I know that the leveleing motor of some of the halogen based headlights are different from the Bi-xenon headlight.

You can try to find out by twisting the leveling motor and working out of the housing.

if the cams like up then you can swap the levering motors.

If the motor cant fit then you a basically out of luck. The 4 pin motor works with autolevel system. the 3 pin motor is a manual system, so you would have to find a Euro compass range adjuster motor.
 

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Great write up. I wish I had seen this post when I did my install... i noticed you mentioned the tan (blinker) connectors broke when removing them from OEM assembly. That same thing happened to me. Mine will not stay on and come slide off when I drive. I would like to just tape them on but I can't get my hand back there because they are so short when doing the final install. So im thinking of replacing the connector itself. Does anyone know if buying new connectors is an option for the Blinkers?
 

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Also.. I had an issue where my driver side low beam was not receiving the proper power and grounding. So I ran my own separate ground and power to that bulb. I can post an actual write up on it if anyone needs a further explanation.
 

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Looks great! I'm thinking about doing this mod also.
I do have a few questions though.
How have they held up?
Light quality same as OEM? Better/worse?
Any news on getting the autolevel to work?
 

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Looks great! I'm thinking about doing this mod also.
I do have a few questions though.
How have they held up?
Light quality same as OEM? Better/worse?
Any news on getting the autolevel to work?

Great over all no issues


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2011 GC Overland
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For those that are curious about the visual difference (OEM HIDs vs. aftermarket), I took some pics with one of the newer lights installed and one of the old OEM lights still there. The bumper and grill are off, but hopefully you get the idea of the difference:


Front view (aftermarket to your right, OEM to your left).



Passenger side/OEM off and on.



Driver side/aftermarket off and on.

I ran out of daytime to finish the job (and I cut my finger open cutting electric tape :( ), so I guess I'll call it a day and finish it up tomorrow.
 

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How well does the high beam function work with the inner projectors, as well as OEM (equal or better)...and are High beams also HID on new lights?

Also, is it possible to make the inner Amber blinkers work as parking lamps when in Park (DRL's off)??

Were any extra wiring harnesses required, beyond what came with new Lights?

TIA
 

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kronological - Do you have pics of light output against wall to see cutoff? I would like to compare to mine.

I have running them for over 6mos now...all good execpt for some condensation during drastic changes in temp. Still trying to figure out best way to better seal them.

Regarding the light output. THe projectors provide a more sever cutoff than oem...not necessarily bad, but I feel that the oem provides a slightly better useable light. Regarding the high beams...they are halogen but being Bixenon, the highs are much better than the oem.

I am running OEM D2s bulbs in the projectors.

Here is pic of mine during install...driver side with Winn light with D2S HID and passenger OEM with orig oem bulb 85k miles.

I still haven't figured out why there is a beam of light above the cutoff with the WINN light.
 

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2011 GC Overland
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At this point I am not liking these winpower lights.

When in low-beam setting, there is a definite jagged, horizontal 'line' of light (similar to your garage pic), and there is almost NO usable light farther out from that jagged line.

The Hi beams are very bright, but they seem a little cockeyed and there are hot spots. There doesn't seem to be a separate left/right adjustment to correct that.

The light is not evenly projected as I believe it should be, and the low beam and high beam lights are definitely also different tints (high more yellow, low more neutral white) which is extremely annoying.

I will play around with the adjustments on them...but I am highly dubious right now about the performance of these aftermarket headlight assemblies. I just don't see how I can adjust the faults out of them. :(

Thoughts????
 

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Isn't that jagged line the intended cut-off? It's supposed to have that 'shelf' but then be flat beyond that. What do you mean there isn't much usable light farther out? You mean above the line or laterally? Please provide pics of the hot spots, etc. And the color temperature you're referring to is normal when comparing that of hid to halogen. Also, I'd like to see completed pics of these on your jeep, both with lights on/off, as I have the same color and was considering these potentially.
 

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2011 GC Overland
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The intended cut-off is very extreme. It looks as though there is nothing but shadow beyond it, and it leaves too much guesswork as to what is beyond the line...IOW...there is no smooth transition to less light, and it almost looks like there is something in the road. I don't know if I am doing a good job explaining it...

Maybe I'm just not understanding how these lights work...perhaps I really need to keep adjusting the lights upward to extend that line out further???
 

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2013 GC Altitude 5.7
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Re: Winpower headlight install and pitfalls

I鈥檓 happy with them but need to drastically adjust them up. I installed completely and am not immediately seeing where to adjust the level. If anyone can remind me I鈥檇 appreciate it.
 
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