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I have 2015 WK 2 Overland V8 with QD2 and QudraLift, it has about 150,000 miles on it. I need some help figuring out what happened and if it will happen again. I was driving for a for only a minute or two got up top 30-35mph then was slowing down to about 2-5mph coasting to a stop for a red light when suddenly a wheel or wheels locked up. It seemed to be drivers side front but really don't know. The engine was running normal, I tried shifting in & out of gear, restarted the vehicle nothing changed, still locked up.
I then decided to have it towed when they were wenching it onto the flatbed I watched it dragged the drivers side front wheel for a short time, before I could look at the other wheels when it suddenly it broke free and was rolling normal.
I had it brought to the dealer where they found nothing wrong.
I now have it back & its driving like normal for last the couple days.
Every year I try to get away from everything by take some long trails by myself, it could become a nightmare if this would happen then.
Any thoughts on what happened are appreciated?
Thanks
 

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Any chance you l lightly touched the brake??? First thing that pops into mind is the caliper.... If everything eles was turning, kinda rules out the tranny.... And if the passengers side was turning kinda says you didn't have a catastrophic differential problem.... So maybe a stuck caliper???? I've had them with the main O-ring stick them come loose.... Only to stick again, and come loose.... Taking my 2014 on a long trail run today!!!!!! Good luck brother...
 

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Caliper bolts (or pistons) were seized or not lubed properly if the pads were replaced in the past.
Might want to get the brakes checked out or better get a fresh brake job.
 

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Front brake calipers are dual piston. One piston can stick or fail and the other piston will take over and the brakes will feel normal, well, at least close to normal.

I bought my WK2 used, and the brakes were a mess, especially the hydraulic part of the brakes, I have had to replace just everything in my brakes. I had replaced a lot and it improved the brakes, but the pedal still felt inconsistent. Sometimes it was firm like I expected, sometimes it was a little soft.

I had a front caliper stick and kept the brake on that wheel applied. I replaced the caliper, the brake pedal felt 100% with the new caliper.

Later I tested all my calipers, with my own simple test. I removed each caliper, opened the bleed screw so there was no hydraulic pressure to resist pushing the piston back in. The fresh rebuilt caliper I could push the pistons in with my fingers, it wasn't much effort and it move smoothly and evenly. Then my remaining 3 calipers, I could not push the pistons in all the way, if they moved at all they didn't move smoothly or evenly, all but one piston did not move evenly and be pressed in. I replaced the remaining calipers except one rear one, and all the brake hoses. The pedal feel and braking improved even more.

I also blew off using blue thread lock on the caliper bolts and two days later one of the caliper bolts fell out, this allowed the caliper to rotate from the torque of braking and the caliper dug into the wheel and locked it up. It pop free and I could drive until the next time I applied the brakes and wheel would lock up. It did not mar the inside of the wheel enough to notice right away.

So its possible you could have a sticking caliper and its not so easy to diagnose with the dual piston caliper where one piston could be operating and thus masking the other piston not working right. What I did above, takes some time and work, but it will verify if the caliper is working well or not. A bolt could have fallen out, but again it only happened when I blew off the blue thread lock, and it happened pretty shortly after doing the job. So unless you had the pads replaced in the last couple weeks, I doubt it. It costs nothing to look and make sure the bolts are there and tightened down.

Only other thing I can think of, CV shaft problem, especially if the front wheel was turned when it locked up. Maybe a wheel bearing or differential, but I'd think you would have had plenty of warning with noises or issues in that area before they actually locked up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies, it helps! I agree with the thinking the brakes locked up, it is the most probable answer but why? They were redone about a year ago and I had no problems until now. Another possible is I have a 2015 with the "Killer Shifter". I don't know all of what the "Jeep Fix" did but I do understand certain actions like opening a door causes the shifter to automatically go it into park. I wonder if that could have been activated somehow? I have been driving for 3 days now without any problems.....
 

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Thanks for the replies, it helps! I agree with the thinking the brakes locked up, it is the most probable answer but why? They were redone about a year ago and I had no problems until now. Another possible is I have a 2015 with the "Killer Shifter". I don't know all of what the "Jeep Fix" did but I do understand certain actions like opening a door causes the shifter to automatically go it into park. I wonder if that could have been activated somehow? I have been driving for 3 days now without any problems.....
If the park pawl was to attempt to engage at any speed higher then perhaps 3 mph you would hear a loud ratcheting sound followed by the sound of $3000+ being vacuumed out of your wallet.
 

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Thanks for the replies, it helps! I agree with the thinking the brakes locked up, it is the most probable answer but why? They were redone about a year ago and I had no problems until now.
What do you mean by brakes redone? You got new brake pads installed, or even rotors with the pads?

You do know your brakes are far more than just the pads and rotors. My post was long, but I explained it. More concisely, the brake fluid can get contaminated or break down and it can cause all sorts of problems with the hydraulic components of the brakes. A caliper seizing or locking up is the piston in the caliper seizing or jamming from gunk or its seals going bad. Calipers going bad is not something the mechanic replacing pads would easily catch. If may be able to notice while driving based off pedal feel and brake reaction, but not always and the dual piston calipers make it even harder, read it in my post above yours.

Another possible is I have a 2015 with the "Killer Shifter". I don't know all of what the "Jeep Fix" did but I do understand certain actions like opening a door causes the shifter to automatically go it into park. I wonder if that could have been activated somehow? I have been driving for 3 days now without any problems.....
Its not a Killer Shifter, people are killer careless with their vehicles, the NHTSA report said the driver would have to screw up royally with multiple mistakes and ignore multiple visual and audible warnings for the car to roll away, but FCA can fix it with a software fix, and people are that stupid, so we're going to make them recall it and do a software fix. You might note, the interim fix while the software was being developed, was to mail everyone a placard for their visor to put on it, that reminded them of the steps to properly park their vehicle, that came from driver's ed. The Star Trek actor that ran himself over with his own car, read the Police Report, he was such an idiot they couldn't believe it.

It may be a crappy shifter that people can't stand, but its careless drivers that cause vehicles to roll away.

If you had the recall performed, the software would use existing sensors to try to determine if the driver got out of the vehicle while the engine is running. Basically if the driver seatbelt is detached, turning on the seatbelt warning light, then the driver door is opened to light the door ajar warning, it could mean the driver may be exiting the vehicle and the software will shift the transmission into park. I think there is a parameter with speed also, but I forget what it is.
 
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