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Hi, I know this is an old post but it's real good information. It sounds like the lithium battery can be charged without a DC/DC charge controller.

I've read that damage to the alternator can occur or even worse melted wires from too much current being pulled. Does this test eliminate that concern? Can you just pull the 30 amp 12V fuse that powers the 7 pin to be sure? Thank you
 

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, What would pulling the 30amp fuse do? It would then not power anything through the 7 pin unless I misunderstand what you mean?
Hi, The reason for pulling the fuse is because I plan to install and use two Li batteries before I install a DC to DC charger. I've read in many places damage to the alternator or wires can take place because of the current draw. Don't know if this is a urban legond or not. But do read it over and over...although I've never read of it actually happening.
 

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Hi, I ran the same test today with the lead acid batteries I have in my TT. Thank you for the insight of how to use the smart shunt app. to get the data.

If I follow you, if after changing out I don't exceed 30 amps on that circuit, everything will be good? If anything exceeds 30 amps, the fuse should blow before anything bad happens? Correct.
 

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Hi ,

Sorry to bug you, but you seem very knowelgable on this issue.

1. I measured the voltage at my battery (and 7 pin) with the engine cold at 14.8 V. Let the vehicle idle for about 45 minutes (everything off) and there was no change in voltage, same 14.7V. Does that mean it is not a "smart alternator?

2. What devices do you have to get the above data. It intriques me?

Thank you,
 
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