So ive done my oil change twice and both times put in 7.6qt with new mobil 1 filter to get to full mark on dipstick, just fyi as manual says 7qt to full... Never had a car need more than spec to get to full before, hope this helps someone...
Wk2 hemi oil change
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I also had to put that much oil in the hemi.
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I have the dealer change my oil and I've gotten used to reading my stick as full at 1/4 to a 1/3 below the full mark. At first I thought I was burning oil, but it consistently stays at the same mark. It did burn a little oil during the break in period, but not now. Just in case, I carry an extra quart.
7 quarts is right at the add line. And then it dipped below the add line. I'm doing my own oil changes from now on. I put almost 7 1/2 quarts of Mobil 1 full synthetic in and it brought the level up to 2/3rds above the add line into the cross hatch area of the dipstick which makes me comfortable with it. I was able to purchase 3 5-quart bottles and 2 Mopar filters from Walmart for a total of $94.43 including tax. That's only $47 per oil change for quality full synthetic and a Mopar filter and gets me an extra quart of oil to put that extra half in and have extra if it gets low before the next change, and have 7 1/2 quarts for the next oil change. Had to get a new engine oil drain plug, the one on there didn't fit any of my sockets and had to use a vice grip to crank it off.
I've never ever heard of a recommendation for a wet sump engine to run it at the low end of oil in the pan (usually just the opposite), but hey, now I have!
I can see how it could possibly effect the MDS if OVER filled.. But would you rather have a higher risk of low oil pressure, less dilution of contamination, less heat dissipation, and need to check the oil more often as it may drop below the low level sooner... Or have the worthless MDS kick in for sure? I'll trust the hashmarks, thank you.
Frankly, I considered going to 5w-30 just to have the MDS not work, but remembered I'm still in warranty ; )
I can see how it could possibly effect the MDS if OVER filled.. But would you rather have a higher risk of low oil pressure, less dilution of contamination, less heat dissipation, and need to check the oil more often as it may drop below the low level sooner... Or have the worthless MDS kick in for sure? I'll trust the hashmarks, thank you.
Frankly, I considered going to 5w-30 just to have the MDS not work, but remembered I'm still in warranty ; )
Mine said the same thing.
That's because the "master techs" at the stealership over torque everything. (and underfill the engine!).
It may be for political reasons but still technically, No.
Copied and pasted from today's Mobil 1 website.
Question: Mobil 1 5W-20 and Chrysler MS-6395 Why is your Mobil 1 5W-20 not Chrysler MS-6395 spec approved? Or if it is, why is the certification not on the bottle or website?-- Josh Eads, Cabot, AR
Thank you for understanding. :thumbsup:
So this engine is running on conventional oil. My 06' 300C 5.7L had always been synthetic. I've read numerous arguments on varying forums about the syn vs. conv oils. SO if the manufacturer suggests conventional now... Why spend more on synthetic oil? Why is it conventional now?
We also have the Unlimited Mileage/Time Warranty.
We also have the Unlimited Mileage/Time Warranty.
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Full synthetic is always better than mineral. The molecules in the synthetic oils flow more freely at low temperatures and don't break down at high temperatures as opposed to mineral. That's why their grading is different too, they can be specified one or two grades lighter, which cause less friction inside the engine and therefore save fuel. Because the molecules don't break down like in the mineral oils, that's why they specify longer oil change intervals, but I replace them at every 6K.
I know that a lot has been written about the superiority of synthetic oil. I'm not in a position to dispute it.
But, if the car manufacturers specify dino oil, that's what I use. My MDX said that you may use synthetic, but that using it should not extend the change interval.
I know it is sometimes an emotional subject with most, not all, basing their decision on what they read and sometimes perceived benefits.
Here is my 'guess'. When synthetics first came out they were a good idea, and they have continued to improve. At the same time, oil refining and additives, plus engine manufacturing has improved. At this point in time, conventional oil provides 100% of the protection and lubrication that an engine can benefit from. So while synthetic may look better on paper (and in all the ads) it is over kill.
Remember two things ...
1- I said this was my guess
2- Many people swear their low compression engines run so much better on premium fuel.
Use what makes you feel good. Your car won't care.
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Yep. It costs less, they recommend it and our warranty is unlimited. Saving money will win this decision. The manual says 6 months /5k not to exceeed 8k at anytime. That's pretty good for the terrible conventional oil.
And seeing as I just spent $5.00 per spark plug for these NGK's instead of the $1.99 my Champions for the 06 Hemi ill pocket the oil savings.
Why not? The only way to know if your engine oil is due for a change is to have an oil analysis done. Some engines are harder on oil than others, same goes with driving style.
Is there a list of chrysler compliant oils I can take a look at? I've got some free oil changes left on my freebie contract and when it's done I will be doing my own oil changes.
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