[BobT]

This item is long overdue. However, I would call this a bash plate rather than a sump protection plate. I already have a steel sump protection plate as part of the Mopar skid plate kit. Unfortunately, for some silly reason, the Mopar kit doesn't extend forward of sump itself as your one does.

 

[BobT]

What tires are on your WK2?

Care to post a full pic?

While you are at it, what engine is that? Your photo shows what looks like an oil filter. The CRD doesn't have the oil filter there.

I'm holding out for the ARB and Uneek4x4 bull bars that have been long promised. They may incorporate something similar. If not then I'll certainly be interested.

Also, have you considerred the differences in the bumper area of the 2011 and 2012-13 vehicles? Will this fit both?

 

[BobT]

We are also developing a 'Front Guard' for the area behind the front air dam, to protect the lower radiator, windshield washer bottle, ACC Camera and air suspension controller. I'll post more information about it and our Recovery Hooks soon.

Cheers,
Bill

Fantastic! This is the most vulnerable part of the Jeep, in fact ridiculously venerable for an off-roader. However, make sure the air still gets directed up to the radiators as it is with the current flimsy plastic air intake baffle. This will be critical to the caravans.

 

[BobT]

That cardboard thingy is called a "Belly Pan, Front" Mopar#68037063AD. This is for the CRD's. I think the others are a bit different. I just tore mine off driving in sand with the air dam off as recommended by Jeep . What occurred to me is that the reason this is made of a flexible material could be that it connects the engine with the body. A rigid connection could transmit engine vibration to the body or stress parts in ways they were not intended to be stressed. I was thinking of maybe making something out of conveyor belting. Also, I suspect the belly pan plays a part in ducting air around the engine so driving without one for any length of time might not be a good idea. These are just ideas to through in the pot.

 

[BobT]

I'd vote for Aluminum I don't need it painted, you could consider matt or satin black anodising rather than painting.

I'd suggest some front to back strengthening ribs rather than thicker metal. The mounting bolts could then be countersunk into the strengthening ribs so that the heads are protected. Inserting an allen key into a crunched dome head is very difficult. You may need to consider bigger mounting bolts.

You could place mesh across any holes or slots to stop sticks.

I agree with allypally $350 + GST is a bit steep, you may struggle to find sales.

I'd be prepared to pay $250 + GST in bare aluminum.

I just priced the plastic one, Belly Pan, Front #68037063AD. The stealers want $391.17 for it.

 

[BobT]

At Stockton previously I hit a sand berm that bent the bumper cover in so far that it crushed the plastic air inlet duct that sits behind it. That needed replacing. The last time at Stockton, with the guys, I did as the manual suggests and removed the bumper cover. That was worse. The front of the plastic belly pan dug into the sand and ripped off the front fasteners. This caused it to bend back under the car. In so doing, the two front fender liners were pushed back against the wheels and damaged. All fixed now.

The plastic belly pan is a curious thing. I don't think it is intended to provide protection. It covers a very rigid structural member and the humongous roll bar so the plastic isn't going to do much by way of protection. The belly pan is actually a fairly tough foam sandwich with a kind of waffle pattern above. It looks to me that it is primarily there for sound proofing and to duct cooling air around the engine. I would think it should be left in place. I'm thinking that some form of bash plate that protects the leading edge of the belly pan and runs perhaps half the way back towards the engine but not to the engine, would be good.

 

[BobT]

If the liners are attached to the protection plate, have you tried driving the GC at highway speeds without ripping off the liners or is that still something we should avoid.

Good point!

Removing the front air dam when you get to the trail is such a hassle. When you do remove it, you'd need extra space to store it.

I would leave the air dam at home. However, I have my doubts about taking it off at all. The only benefit of removing it is an increased approach angle. I've left the air dam on resulting in damage to the air dam and shattering of the air inlet duct. I've taken the air dam off and promptly ripped out the plastic belly pan and ruined the wheel arch liners. The latter was the most expensive. Hopefully this protection plate will help make the WK2 a little more off-road worthy.

 

[BobT]

See how much better they look shiny! Could we please have them in chrome as well as powder coated?

 

[BobT]

See how much better they look shiny! Could we please have them in chrome as well as powder coated?

Sorry, I meant the recovery hooks/lugs, not the bash plate.

 

[BobT]

BobT,

Because of your suggestion, we are currently investigating a Chrome option. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks for the input!

Cheers,
Bill

No one can accuse you of not listenning to the voice of the customer. Anyway, since I might now be morally sucked in to buying a pair of chrome hooks, you might be morally obliged to offer me a modest discount for the suggestion.

 

[BobT]

Hi BobT,

I've contacted a few suppliers and it sounds like the price will be too high ($100+ per hook) for us to offer this as a regular option. Apparently there is a good deal of labor in prepping and polishing the hook so it has a nice smooth blemish free finish. If somebody really wanted them chromed, I might be persuaded to do a one off, but I think the price is too high to offer this as a regular option unfortunately.

Cheers,
Bill

Understood! You would need pretty high volumes to get the price down.

 

[BobT]

Just lost my first M6 bolt and bolt protector out of my 3mm bash plate. I've ordered another couple of bolt protectors. I'll definitely use nutserts on all three M6 bolts. It would be a bit a disaster if the front edge of the plate came off and dug into the dirt.

 

[BobT]

Hi Bob,

I just sent you an email. If you get a chance, I'd love to hear more about what happened.

Which one did you lose? Was it the one you suspected was over-tightened?
Did this happen on-road or off-road?
Did you hit the plate on something to cause this?

We haven't had any problems on our WK2 yet, (even while testing in fairly difficult off-road conditions) and we haven't had any reported problems yet, but I want to pay maximum attention to any potential product failings.

Obviously this is something that should never happen, so I am very interested to hear your thoughts.

Cheers,
Bill

I haven't been off road yet and I didn't hit anything but as you know I had issues with two of the screws. It was a case of possibly over tightening and a batch of screws where the thread was not fully formed adjacent to the unthreaded portion. This should not be an issue with the 5mm plate. I think you might be using full length threaded screws now anyway. In desperation I put helicoils in all three holes but it appears one worked loose with vibration. I'm not surprised. I'll put in the nutserts which kindly provided. There are a few good ideas for home made nutsert/rivnut tools on the web.

 

[BobT]

True that Bob... you could punch it straight through the sump. Ouch.

Would Locktite have stopped it backing out?

It would also make a nice bulldozer.

Yes I did use locktite but with the nord-lock washers, I don't think the screw backed out. I suspect I made things worse by drilling out the holes for the helicoils. Any meat that was there was reduced to the thickness of the plate. I expect it just pulled out with vibration and body flex. Helicoils are are a godsend but pretty useless on plate.

 

[BobT]

I would advise against using Locktite, otherwise removing the sump plate to change your oil will become a bit more difficult. Once the nutserts are installed, the NordLock washers should be sufficient to guard against loosening from vibration and flex.

Cheers,
Bill

There is no need to remove the sump plate, at least not with the CRD. There is a generous access hole to the sump plug and the oil filter is accessed from above.

 

[BobT]

If you get the chance, can you post some photos? I can't remember where the sump plug is on the CRD.

Cheers,
Bill

No can do at the moment. My dicky knee is playing up so I can't easily get under the car till the knee clears up. I'm really itching to get the nutserts in with the tool I made up. Thanks for the offer of a tool. I might still need it if mine doesn't turn out.

 

[BobT]

ok, I think I found it, makes sense they left access to that.

Thanks Benn0! I notice you still have the felt sump cover in. I took mine out. With the sump skid plate on, I really can't see the reason for the felt cover other than possibly sound proofing or insulation of the sump in arctic conditions. In Oz conditions, it's likely to be just a dirt and water trap. If anyone can come up with a good reason for it, I can easily put it back.

 

[BobT]

Yeah, I figured they are just too lazy to take it out when they put the plates on....

That's what I thought too.

 

[BobT]

Thanks for the photo. I always wondered what that hole was for! LOL! On the 5.7L the sump plug is not positioned there, so the hole just seems arbitrary.

Cheers,
Bill

That's weird, it's not like the CRD is their big seller. Maybe they thought it would be the engine most likely to go with an Off-road Adventure pack. Bill, are you going to cut a hole for your sump plug?