WK2 Sump Protection Plate

33349 Views 100 Replies 23 Participants Last post by BobT, Jul 27, 2018

bmackin

Discussion Starter · Jul 10, 2013

I've created this thread to provide updates and gather feedback on the development of Chief Products 'Sump Protection Plate'.

As many of you probably know, WK2s only have a plastic (2011-2012) or plastic/felt (2013+) unit protecting the front underside of the vehicle. Sadly, Jeep & Mopar currently offer no skid plate protection for this area.

For many, this is one of the first parts you break off-road. It protects a critical area (see photos below) as well as holding the inner wheel well liners in place. Considering the dealer in Brisbane charged me $388.04 for a new unit, plus $4.56 for fasteners, plus GST, plus installation to replace the plastic unit when it broke off-road. I thought it might be a good idea to create a more sturdy version.

Here are a few photos:

STOCK VERSION (INSTALLED)

STOCK VERSION (BROKEN)

WHAT IT PROTECTS

WHAT IT PROTECTS 2

CHIEF PRODUCTS - PROTOTYPE V1 (INSTALLED - FRONT AIR DAM REMOVED)

CHIEF PRODUCTS - PROTOTYPE V1 (INSTALLED)

CHIEF PRODUCTS - PROTOTYPE V1 (OFF-ROAD TESTING)

See less See more

7

81 - 100 of 101 Posts

bmackin

Discussion Starter · #81 · Jul 8, 2014

Benn0 said:
Oh yeah, didn't think about oil changes. Not sure I trust the wrench monkeys at jeep to be gentle with the threads on these bolts... might have to remove it before taking it in.....

Hey Benn0,

I just took mine in for the 48k service and although they only did half of it and I need to go back... Grrrrr... They had no problems with the plate and the bolts. I think this is because the stock 'Belly Pan' attaches the very same way and is just as susceptible to over-tightening.

If you look closely, Jeep has already included nutserts in these holes from the factory, they sadly just aren't very long. On a positive note, I did notice during our last test fitting that 2014 models seemed to have slightly longer nutserts in this area.

Our main concern during engineering of the plate was whether the OEM nutserts were strong enough to handle the forces that might be encountered when the middle of the plate was hit hard and wanted to pull away from the sub-frame. This was something Jeep didn't need to plan for with a plastic 'Belly Pan'. Based on our computer models, the OEM nutserts were 2x stronger than needed for everything except catastrophic failure.

Cheers,
Bill

See less See more

BobT

· #82 · Jul 9, 2014

bmackin said:
I would advise against using Locktite, otherwise removing the sump plate to change your oil will become a bit more difficult. Once the nutserts are installed, the NordLock washers should be sufficient to guard against loosening from vibration and flex.

Cheers,
Bill

There is no need to remove the sump plate, at least not with the CRD. There is a generous access hole to the sump plug and the oil filter is accessed from above.

bmackin

Discussion Starter · #83 · Jul 9, 2014

BobT said:
There is no need to remove the sump plate, at least not with the CRD. There is a generous access hole to the sump plug and the oil filter is accessed from above.

If you get the chance, can you post some photos? I can't remember where the sump plug is on the CRD.

Cheers,
Bill

Benn0

· #84 · Jul 9, 2014

bmackin said:
Hey Benn0,

I just took mine in for the 48k service and although they only did half of it and I need to go back... Grrrrr... They had no problems with the plate and the bolts.

Ok, thanks...

Benn0

· #85 · Jul 9, 2014

ok, I think I found it, makes sense they left access to that.

See less See more

Reactions: 2

0five

· #86 · Jul 9, 2014

Was there ever a bulk buy for the USA any that fits the 2014 wk2??

BobT

· #87 · Jul 10, 2014

bmackin said:
If you get the chance, can you post some photos? I can't remember where the sump plug is on the CRD.

Cheers,
Bill

No can do at the moment. My dicky knee is playing up so I can't easily get under the car till the knee clears up. I'm really itching to get the nutserts in with the tool I made up. Thanks for the offer of a tool. I might still need it if mine doesn't turn out.

BobT

· #88 · Jul 10, 2014 (Edited)

Benn0 said:
ok, I think I found it, makes sense they left access to that.

Thanks Benn0! I notice you still have the felt sump cover in. I took mine out. With the sump skid plate on, I really can't see the reason for the felt cover other than possibly sound proofing or insulation of the sump in arctic conditions. In Oz conditions, it's likely to be just a dirt and water trap. If anyone can come up with a good reason for it, I can easily put it back.

Benn0

· #89 · Jul 10, 2014

Yeah, I figured they are just too lazy to take it out when they put the plates on....

BobT

· #90 · Jul 11, 2014

Benn0 said:
Yeah, I figured they are just too lazy to take it out when they put the plates on....

That's what I thought too.

XKTrail

· #91 · Jul 11, 2014

Benn0 said:
Yeah, I figured they are just too lazy to take it out when they put the plates on....

Mine came from the factory with the felt sandwiched in-between.

Sent from a iPad via NSA surveillance van #574.

bmackin

Discussion Starter · #92 · Jul 12, 2014

Benn0 said:
ok, I think I found it, makes sense they left access to that.

Thanks for the photo. I always wondered what that hole was for! LOL! On the 5.7L the sump plug is not positioned there, so the hole just seems arbitrary.

Cheers,
Bill

Reactions: 1

BobT

· #93 · Jul 12, 2014

bmackin said:
Thanks for the photo. I always wondered what that hole was for! LOL! On the 5.7L the sump plug is not positioned there, so the hole just seems arbitrary.

Cheers,
Bill

That's weird, it's not like the CRD is their big seller. Maybe they thought it would be the engine most likely to go with an Off-road Adventure pack. Bill, are you going to cut a hole for your sump plug?

bmackin

Discussion Starter · #94 · Jul 12, 2014

BobT said:
That's weird, it's not like the CRD is their big seller. Maybe they thought it would be the engine most likely to go with an Off-road Adventure pack. Bill, are you going to cut a hole for your sump plug?

I can't say for sure, but I think the 3.6L might be accessible in the same spot, making the 5.7L the odd man out. Can anyone confirm?

No need to cut a hole, it's easy enough to remove the sump plate.

I think Jeep decided the same, since all of the new 'Belly Pans' are one piece without a hole.

Cheers,
Bill

Reactions: 1

BobT

· #95 · Jul 13, 2014

bmackin said:
I can't say for sure, but I think the 3.6L might be accessible in the same spot, making the 5.7L the odd man out. Can anyone confirm?

No need to cut a hole, it's easy enough to remove the sump plate. I think Jeep decided the same, since all of the new 'Belly Pans' are one piece without a hole.

Cheers,
Bill

Here you go! You could supply custom belly pans with engine specific holes.

BobT

· #96 · Jul 16, 2014

BobT said:
No can do at the moment. My dicky knee is playing up so I can't easily get under the car till the knee clears up. I'm really itching to get the nutserts in with the tool I made up. Thanks for the offer of a tool. I might still need it if mine doesn't turn out.

The knee is better. Got the nutserts in and the plate is good to go. I used my home made tool to set the nutserts. It wasn't as straightforward as I thought. The problem is stopping the nutsert from rotating as one tightens the bolt to set the them. There is too much friction between the bolt thread and the nutsert thread and not enough friction holding the nutsert in. Some grease on the thread and a nordlock washer up against the nutsert helped but a proper tool would have been better. Yes, it was so much easier putting the rear M8 bolts in first. I did it the other way around before and it was a pain getting the M8s to catch.

bmackin

Discussion Starter · #97 · Jul 16, 2014

BobT said:
The knee is better. Got the nutserts in and the plate is good to go. I used my home made tool to set the nutserts. It wasn't as straightforward as I thought. The problem is stopping the nutsert from rotating as one tightens the bolt to set the them. There is too much friction between the bolt thread and the nutsert thread and not enough friction holding the nutsert in. Some grease on the thread and a nordlock washer up against the nutsert helped but a proper tool would have been better. Yes, it was so much easier putting the rear M8 bolts in first. I did it the other way around before and it was a pain getting the M8s to catch.

Hey Bob,

I'm glad to hear the knee is feeling better!

I'm also glad to hear you got the nutserts installed. It sounds like you found a very clever way. I bet you would be a good guy to have around if something broke down in the bush!

Cheers,
Bill

Reactions: 1

Mogul

· #98 · Jul 6, 2018

Anyone else install and use the sump protection plate? I have the lower front guard that i will be installing. Since I have to remove the Trailhawk plastic belly pan anyway, was considring ordering the sump plate, with access hole.

68camaro

· #99 · Jul 6, 2018

Mogul said:
Anyone else install and use the sump protection plate? I have the lower front guard that i will be installing. Since I have to remove the Trailhawk plastic belly pan anyway, was considring ordering the sump plate, with access hole.

I use it and happy I do, already have scrapes in it. With sump plate not sure you can have "full" protection minus this critical area.

Mogul

· #100 · Jul 6, 2018

Yeah, it is kind of surprising they wouldn't provide a real skid plate for this from the factory along with the others.

81 - 100 of 101 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.