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I have a 2012 WK2 with 43k miles. I've been hearing excessive humming/whining at speeds over 45 mph that changes pitch. I've narrowed it down to the front passenger side wheel bearing. Since I'm just out of warranty the dealer won't replace it under warranty so I will replace it myself this weekend. I have not seen any write ups on replacing the hub assembly on the WK2 so I have a couple of questions:

What size is the axle nut 1.25" or 31MM?
Can I reuse the same nut or does it need to be replaced?
On the reinstall what should I torque the axle nut to?
Should I be turning the wheel while torquing?
Any other tips/suggestions?

Thanks in advance!
 

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I have a 2012 WK2 with 43k miles. I've been hearing excessive humming/whining at speeds over 45 mph that changes pitch. I've narrowed it down to the front passenger side wheel bearing. Since I'm just out of warranty the dealer won't replace it under warranty so I will replace it myself this weekend. I have not seen any write ups on replacing the hub assembly on the WK2 so I have a couple of questions:

What size is the axle nut 1.25" or 31MM?
Can I reuse the same nut or does it need to be replaced?
On the reinstall what should I torque the axle nut to?
Should I be turning the wheel while torquing?
Any other tips/suggestions?

Thanks in advance!
31mm
need to replace it
229 ft. lbs.
Pretty straight forward, the lower ball joint nut is kind of a pain in the a$$ to get to. You'll probably need an allen wrench to hold the stud.
 

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interesting that it doesn't fall under the 100k pwrtrain warranty. I know GM covers bearings hub assembly, etc. under the 100k mile warranty and thought the same for chrysler.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I guess they consider it a wear item. Regardless, it was the best $110 (hub assembly+axle nut) I spent on the Jeep so far because the noise was driving me crazy! It took about 3 hours to do, I broke a breaker bar in the process and had to heat the nut with a torch to get it loose. I checked Napa and Sears Hardware both didn't carry a 31mm socket so I used a 6 point 1.25" socket and it worked fine.
 

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I guess they consider it a wear item. Regardless, it was the best $110 (hub assembly+axle nut) I spent on the Jeep so far because the noise was driving me crazy! It took about 3 hours to do, I broke a breaker bar in the process and had to heat the nut with a torch to get it loose. I checked Napa and Sears Hardware both didn't carry a 31mm socket so I used a 6 point 1.25" socket and it worked fine.
I found a 31mm at Advance Auto, probably over-priced, but worked. My 1.25" socket was cracked, so had no choice. Glad you got it swapped.
 

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how the hell did you get the bearing out??? am i missing something??

I have removed:

1) brake caliper
2) axel nut
3) rotor
4) bearing bolts

the damn thing is stuck to the be jeez uz! This shouldnt be this hard what am i missing???

does this nut need to be removed too? i cant believe this needs to be removed too
 

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how the hell did you get the bearing out??? am i missing something??

I have removed:

1) brake caliper
2) axel nut
3) rotor
4) bearing bolts

the damn thing is stuck to the be jeez uz! This shouldnt be this hard what am i missing???

does this nut need to be removed too? i cant believe this needs to be removed too
I know it's to late but no you do not need to remove that.
 

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the lower ball joint nut is kind of a pain in the a$$ to get to. You'll probably need an allen wrench to hold the stud.
this is what got me thinking about that nut in the picture - i knew it didnt make sense to remove the steering knuckle but this statement was confusing to me
 

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fyi dealer wanted $372 for labor on swapping just the drivers side, $106 for parts = $500
or close to a $1k for both sides...wth! mopar wheel bearing assemblies are $80 shipped online.

this is an easy DIY if the bearing can be removed..however if it needs replacing its probably due to corrosion from the elements so its gonna be a bitch but worth a try if you got a couple of hours and the right tools. googled this situation and guys were using the power steering rack to push bearing bolts to loosen the wheel bearing assembly. seems a bit sketchy to me but the pressure from behind would be the trick. i dont have a lift and wasnt gonna climb under a jacked up 5000lb vehicle and start pounding lol

gotta wonder how many are having / had this problem? a search on JG shows quite a few posts concerning excessive tire noise / howling with the bearing being the ultimate culprit (mine was driver side)
 

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Are the symptoms simply ground speed related howling?
if you mean, howling coming from the pavement, then yes for me. new bearing also alleviated the creaking noise coming from the front end when wet i.e. after driving in the rain.

as mentioned previously i thought it was the tires, but nope, the bearing. very quiet jeep now
 

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if you mean, howling coming from the pavement, then yes for me. new bearing also alleviated the creaking noise coming from the front end when wet i.e. after driving in the rain.

as mentioned previously i thought it was the tires, but nope, the bearing. very quiet jeep now
I have just had my rear passenger side replaced at 65,000klms. The drivers side is similar but they won't replace it unless it gets worse.
 

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Did anybody tacked rear bearings as DIY project?

I'm suspecting my rear bearing is failing (whistles on highway entrance ramps and I hear very faint rattle). Might be also the axle back there or God forbid diff.
 

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have same issue replaced tires as i though perhaps old warn tires were the issue ordered new front wheel bearings and will be replacing them this weekend. hopefully this resolves this annoying noise
 

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I am looking to replace the axle nut and cannot confidently understand two items;

1. What is the part # on the nut
2. What is the correct ft lbs for torquing. I have seen anywhere from 178,184, up to 200, 220+...

2015 WK2 4x4
 

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Previous generations, you pounded the old hub and bearing out with a sledge hammer on the hub. Sure, that damages the hub and bearing, but it's bad and being thrown away.

The new bearing is drawn into the steering knuckle and seated, by the retaining nuts.

I haven't attempted it on this generation, but the front suspension is very similar to the previous generation which I have done a wheel bearing swap, so I'd be shocked if the same procedure doesn't work.

https://youtu.be/mg_ysOqsqzI?t=677
 

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fyi dealer wanted $372 for labor on swapping just the drivers side, $106 for parts = $500
or close to a $1k for both sides...wth! mopar wheel bearing assemblies are $80 shipped online.

this is an easy DIY if the bearing can be removed..however if it needs replacing its probably due to corrosion from the elements so its gonna be a bitch but worth a try if you got a couple of hours and the right tools. googled this situation and guys were using the power steering rack to push bearing bolts to loosen the wheel bearing assembly. seems a bit sketchy to me but the pressure from behind would be the trick. i dont have a lift and wasnt gonna climb under a jacked up 5000lb vehicle and start pounding lol

gotta wonder how many are having / had this problem? a search on JG shows quite a few posts concerning excessive tire noise / howling with the bearing being the ultimate culprit (mine was driver side)
My 2011 has had howling since 65k miles. I thought it was the KO2's i threw on it, as I put them on right when I bought the car. I am now at 115k miles and finally replacing the front wheel bearings this weekend haha. They are not loose or anything, its just the noise is getting worse. Specially the drivers side.
 
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