[BradWK2]

hey guys....if you're just looking for something that is a close match to the stock HID color...then go for the phillips h11 diamond visions...they are a halogen bulb but the color is a very close match to the factory HID's

I actually have a couple sets I'm not using so if you want a set let me know and i'll let you try them

here's a couple pics I took last night...the 2 vehicles are my 2014 Grand Cherokee which I upgraded the fogs to the OPT7's and then swapped out my headlight HID bulbs to the OSRAM D3 CBI bulbs-5000K ...which seem to be a good match for the osram 6000k's

and the other is my 2015 Durango Citadel with the HID factory lights(4300K) and the philips Diamond Vision halogen 5000K bulbs....as you'll see they are a pretty good color match

you know those are a good match to the 4300k, probably the best I have seen from a halogen replacement. Thanks for posting

 

[ajag]

you know those are a good match to the 4300k, probably the best I have seen from a halogen replacement. Thanks for posting

No prob...Like I said...I have a couple sets sitting around that are still good but I won't need them any more...if someone wants to try them just pay for shipping and I'll send you a set

 

[Scottina06]

Scott,

Sounds like you installed these. Quick question, I assume they came with the LED bulbs too and were not just the housing? Also, are you able to take the FOG itself off of the SRT bracket (if I need to). I am considering adding these to the 2015 High altitude over just swapping the bulbs in the stock FOGs. The High altitude is same as summit fascia, so I am thinking these would either plug and play or I would have to separate the housing from the bracket to re-use whatever bracket is in the High Altitude. Any thoughts on this? Always appreciate your help

The housing is all one piece...no bulb. Im not sure about the brackets but i think u can buy the fog led housing without the bracket or seperate when u do.

 

[f1anatic]

Just installed these in my Overland, and they look great. Install took about 10 minutes per side. As previously stated, turn the wheels away from the side that you are doing, remove the 1/4 turn plastic clip at the bottom of the felt fender liner, then remove the 10mm bolt on the felt inner liner. Plenty of room to get your hands in with these removed, and the OEM wire and connector are long enough to easily get to.

Also as previously stated, I needed the polarity inverters and the capacitors on mine, for them to function.

I ordered the Amazon kit. So far I am not overly impressed with them. They look nice and all and I know the flux capacitor movie reference to Back to the Future and the time machine. Since I have never been a fan of the DeLorean I am not a fan of the instructions either.

Are they calling "Flux Capacitor" a real device other than this item (or similar) :
Amazon.com: OPT7 HID Capacitors Warning Light Canceller for OPT7 HID Kits (Pair): Automotive


This is what I received. Reading instructions on this site, I concluded that I would be using either the bulb and the "Flux Capacitor", the bulb and the polarity inverter, or all 3 items. None of the instructions so far were very clear. And if I have to use all 3, which one should be closer to the LED bulb ? - the anti-flicker capacitors or the polarity inverter ? Or it doesn't matter.

Thanks.

 

[ajag]

I ordered the Amazon kit. So far I am not overly impressed with them. They look nice and all and I know the flux capacitor movie reference to Back to the Future and the time machine. Since I have never been a fan of the DeLorean I am not a fan of the instructions either.

Are they calling "Flux Capacitor" a real device other than this item (or similar) :
Amazon.com: OPT7 HID Capacitors Warning Light Canceller for OPT7 HID Kits (Pair): Automotive


This is what I received. Reading instructions on this site, I concluded that I would be using either the bulb and the "Flux Capacitor", the bulb and the polarity inverter, or all 3 items. None of the instructions so far were very clear. And if I have to use all 3, which one should be closer to the LED bulb ? - the anti-flicker capacitors or the polarity inverter ? Or it doesn't matter.

Thanks.

You SHOULD just need the inverter plugged into the bulb and then be set...if you experience flicker then you may need the capacitor

I installed mine last weekend with just the power inverter plugged into the bulb and they've been working for a week now perfectly. A couple people have mentioned that they needed the capacitors though...just try and see...you should know right away..plug em in and try...if they flicker then use the capacitor

 

[f1anatic]

Thanks man. It is a half awesome product. One of the cables has a lose connection and so the bulb only lits up when tension is applied to the connector in a certain way. So I will have to contact these OPT 7 fluxers and tell them I am flux0r3d by their product. I will need 1 of each - the capacitor and the polarity inverter cable. So for the time being I have 1 LED and 1 candle. At least we can have good compare/contrast pictures later tonight. If they are not honoring their warranty (and it better be free), Amazon surely accepts returns. Pretty pissed as you may imagine.

 

[f1anatic]

So here's the ultimate proof for the light output benefits of running these in a Jeep Grand Cherokee fog light housing.

DRL + Right Fog Light (OEM bulb)

DRL + Left Fog Light (OPT-7 LED H11) + Right Fog Light (OEM bulb)

I am not yet entirely convinced that these LED bulbs are a viable replacement for a 35 Watt HID setup, certainly not a 55 Watt HID kit (which is what I have in the Subaru) but for sure they are more powerful then anything short of HIDs. I may be cautious with this because I have not seen the light output with the bulb in a headlight housing - it may well be phenomenal but I just don't know it. And I do not know their long-term reliability - for crying out loud this bulb has moving parts: a fan. Thomas Edison would be spinning in his grave if he knew. That is what I am not ready to endorse it as an HID replacement. But if you want a much much MUCH better fog light bulb, this is certainly something you should consider very strongly.

Too bad my experience got tainted by the 45 cent Chinese made connector.

 

[moparBG]

Ok, I think I am finally ready to pull the trigger. Here is the plan:


Opt7 LED Fogs OPT7 Fluxbeam LED Headlight - Opt-7 (6000k color) along with the Phillips D1S: D1S Philips Ultinon 6000K Bulb | D1S 85410WX HID Bulb | D1S 6000k HID Bulb (also 6000k color). Again, my goal is for all to match as close as possible. I really wanted to stay closer to white than blue and go for a 5000k color, but I could not find something suitable for the FOGS at this color that also had a high output like the Opt7 does at 6000k (wish Opt7 made this in a 5000k).


So my only hesitation yet is this: How will the 6k look while the LED DRLs on the 2015 Headlights are on? Does anyone have 6k colored headlight bulbs installed on their 2015 plus with the LED DRLs on and can share a pic? All the examples I have seen are on 2014 or older.


Also any thoughts on my intended route is appreciated. Thanks in advance for all the help yet.

 

[f1anatic]

Ok, I think I am finally ready to pull the trigger. Here is the plan:

All the examples I have seen are on 2014 or older.

So my only hesitation yet is this: How will the 6k look while the LED DRLs on the 2015 Headlights are on?
Also any thoughts on my intended route is appreciated. Thanks in advance for all the help yet.

Obviously we are missing something here:

1) What Model Year is your Jeep ? 2014 or 2015 ?
2) What is the difference between the 2014 and the 2015 headlights?

 

[moparBG]

Obviously we are missing something here:

1) What Model Year is your Jeep ? 2014 or 2015 ?
2) What is the difference between the 2014 and the 2015 headlights?

2015 High Altitude. I am referring to the LED DRLs on it. How would they look while the 6000k headlamps are also on.

Sorry, 2014 I think was the first model year for those lights. Not 2015.

 

[f1anatic]

2015 High Altitude. I am referring to the LED DRLs on it. How would they look while the 6000k headlamps are also on.

Sorry, 2014 I think was the first model year for those lights. Not 2015.

Sorry man, I don't have the pictures you are interested in. And yes, 2014 and 2015 headlight assemblies are the same. However, I am going to speculate that 6000 K bulbs from one manufacturer are not going to be the same blue tint as those from another, despite the fact that the degrees K temperature should "speak" about the color of the visible light.

But why 6000 K headlamps? You would be in fact "seeing less" as there would be less lumens ? Forget the matching of the colors for a minutes, you will hate driving in snow or wet...

Good luck.

 

[ajag]

Sorry man, I don't have the pictures you are interested in. And yes, 2014 and 2015 headlight assemblies are the same. However, I am going to speculate that 6000 K bulbs from one manufacturer are not going to be the same blue tint as those from another, despite the fact that the degrees K temperature should "speak" about the color of the visible light.

But why 6000 K headlamps? You would be in fact "seeing less" as there would be less lumens ? Forget the matching of the colors for a minutes, you will hate driving in snow or wet...

Good luck.

That's why I chose the d3 Osram cbi bulbs myself
The 6000k Ultinon actually have a lower lumen output

If you look at the pics I posted previously you'll see how mine look

The osram 5000k with the 6000k opt7's on fog ..with the factory Drl and it all matches very nicely

 

[moparBG]

That's why I chose the d3 Osram cbi bulbs myself
The 6000k Ultinon actually have a lower lumen output

If you look at the pics I posted previously you'll see how mine look

The osram 5000k with the 6000k opt7's on fog ..with the factory Drl and it all matches very nicely

At this point, I am now considering perhaps just doing an HID conversion for the fogs and doing an actual 4300k there and just leave the Headlights alone. From what I have found, the HID conversion FOGs is my best bet to get high lumen output below a 5000k color. I am not really opposed to 5000k or greater, as I have 5800k on my Rubicon and that is great (Trucklite LED headlights and Recon LED FOGS). The reason I am looking at this HID is that I would expect a true match to the headlight, but also in the end this would be the cheapest route. I wouldn't have to spend $200 on replacement headlight bulbs to match the 6000k color from a high output LED FOG like the Opt7. The only issue this creates is the install of the HID is a bit more involved than an LED alternative. I hope space is not an issue for the ballast. Something like this may be the best and cheapest bet in the end to get true matching color, high output on the FOGS, and not compromise anything performance wise with the headlights (considering the argument that you lose lumens with increase in color temp).

H11 Xenon Conversion | XenonDepot Xtreme H11 HID Kit

I don't think I have put this much deliberation into any mod yet on any of my vehicles...

 

[RCrumb]

But I thought there is issues with HID's in non HID housings re heat and reflective design? I was of the understanding that the HID's will work but that you won't get proposer reflective effort and you run the risk of overheating the housing. But WTF do I know...

 

[ajx22]

Honestly - the color difference between the OPT7's and the factory HID's isn't noticeable. The factory fogs are yellow. The OPT7's are crisp white.

 

[subbie09]

But I thought there is issues with HID's in non HID housings re heat and reflective design? I was of the understanding that the HID's will work but that you won't get proposer reflective effort and you run the risk of overheating the housing. But WTF do I know...

Partially correct. Halogen projectors aren't made for HID, but can handle them quite well. I have the Xtreme 5000k kit in factory halogen housings and they do a really nice job at cut off with minimal light spill.

Also, I have ran HID in factory projector and non projector housings and have not melted anything yet. They can handle the heat just fine.


Sent from my iPhone using JeepGarage

 

[f1anatic]

Speaking of heat, given that I have one LED and one regular bulb, I was able to compare the heat output. Unfortunately I no longer have a digital thermometer available to me, but simply covering either bulb - as to see the light output difference - I can report that the factory bulb delivers intense heat to the fog light assembly whereas the LED-equipped fog light is cool to touch.

The HIDs are also much cooler to touch then regular filament bulbs.

I also feel there is minimal color difference between the OPT-7 and the factory HIDs.

 

[kirbyaltitude]

Partially correct. Halogen projectors aren't made for HID, but can handle them quite well. I have the Xtreme 5000k kit in factory halogen housings and they do a really nice job at cut off with minimal light spill.

Also, I have ran HID in factory projector and non projector housings and have not melted anything yet. They can handle the heat just fine.


Sent from my iPhone using JeepGarage

So with your experience do you think the OPT7 would work as a good low beam replacement in my 2013 GC stock halogen housing (re: heat, cutoff, light spill)? Want to closely match 6000k fogs (different brand) already replaced.

 

[subbie09]

So with your experience do you think the OPT7 would work as a good low beam replacement in my 2013 GC stock halogen housing (re: heat, cutoff, light spill)? Want to closely match 6000k fogs (different brand) already replaced.

The 13's don't have projector housings like the 14+ do.

They are good choice but I am not a fan of moving parts. They have a fan to keep them cool. For a few dollars more you could get XenonDepot H11 LED which have heat sink so less chance of failure, and are rated at 2500 lumens each. It is what I will be running in my fog lights soon


Sent from my iPhone using JeepGarage

 

[f1anatic]

I think there are some misleading statements here. Both the OPT-7 and the Xenon Depot LED have a heat sink. Whereas the XD relies on a ribbon design to increase the surface area and dissipate heat, the OPT-7 also incorporates active cooling. I also think that the ribbon design is not entirely fail proof either just as the fan use is also questionable. But at the end of the day, we all have computer towers with fans that keep working for years and years.

In 15 years and over 30 devices with fans, from laptops to desktop towers, power sources to graphic cards and research instrumentation to cable boxes, I never had a fan fail. They get noisy, dirty, spin slower, but I am surely hoping this isn't the first device with a fan failure.