If you're concerned about cold starts, but think there might be something to this argument for higher viscosity oil, consider a good 0W-30. Most euro-spec 0W-30's are superior motor oils. It's been discussed in here already.

As far as using clear flood to "prime" the oil system I still don't get the logical argument that its really beneficial over just starting the engine, and I still don't agree that this is what clear flood mode was designed for. I will concede that spinning the engine in the absence of combustion is probably slightly less stressful on some parts.

 

If you're concerned about cold starts, but think there might be something to this argument for higher viscosity oil, consider a good 0W-30. Most euro-spec 0W-30's are superior motor oils. It's been discussed in here already.

You might have missed it, but I stick with the oil spec in the manual. It has served me well since I've first became a Jeep owner in 2015.

And as far as cold starts, since you like context, the discussion here was more about cold starts of an engine that has been sitting for a long time. Personally, mine very rarely goes more than a day without running.

 

Just to reiterate...it was never suggested that the clear flood mode was designed for anything other than what it is so there is no reason to disagree. As pointed out earlier it just so happens using the clear flood mode does indeed prime/build oil pressure...free to use it or not.

 

We just bought a new GMC 1500 with a 6.2 in it. I drove it home from the dealership , drained the 0/20 and replaced it with 5W30.

There goes your warranty.

Hey, so just a quick question...GM just issued a recall for the 6.2 l87 engines...As part of it they're changing the recomended oil from 0W/20 to 0/W40.... Do you think they're going to void my warranty ?

 

jUsT dO wHaT tHe mAnUaL sAys!!!! tHe mAnUaL iS gOd!!!

LOL

 

We had a car that was assembled in Ontario, the Oil filler said Use 5W20. Which is correct IF YOU LIVE IN Canada.

But, in Texas we used 30w Synthetic since the 80's.

But left to their own devices, the dealer filled it with 20W. What are your gonna do?

I had Service Writers tell me I was wasting my money, "Oh the Blend is Just As Good" (as full Syn).
"You go first", I thought to myself.

I had a Pep Boys Tech use the word Molasses after I asked for 30W.

I started typing a Word doc for service needs to present to the SR. That cured some of the ridiculous back and forth.

Conversely, the filler cap on our 2017 Cad V6 3.5 says Dexos 5W30. Which would make sense with almost any engine anywhere in the US. I think these fancy camshaft setups have fostered the need for higher quality syn (Dexos).

I can't believe GM is taking a bath on 600K recalls because they specified an Energy Saving oil in High Output truck engines? That is bizarre.

The Vettes are labeled for 40W, aren't they?

 

We had a car that was assembled in Ontario, the Oil filler said Use 5W20. Which is correct IF YOU LIVE IN Canada.

But, in Texas we used 30w Synthetic since the 60's.

But left to their own devices, the dealer filled it with 20W. What are your gonna do?

I had Service Writers tell me I was wasting my money, "Oh the Blend is Just As Good" (as full Syn).
"You go first", I thought to myself.

I had a Pep Boys Tech use the word Malaises after I asked for 30W.

I started typing a Word doc for service needs to present to the SR. That cured some of the ridiculous back and forth.

Conversely, the filler cap on our 2017 Cad V6 3.5 says Dexos 5W30. Which would make sense with almost any engine anywhere in the US. I think these fancy camshaft setups have fostered the need for higher quality syn (Dexos).

I can't believe GM is taking a bath on 600K recalls because they specified an Energy Saving oil in High Output truck engines? That is bizarre.

The Vettes are labeled for 40W, aren't they?

I believe Vettes are in fact 0w40 or 5/40 ... I went to 5 /30 literally the day after I bought the truck and likely would have done 0/40 but Mobil 1 supercar was the only dexos certified oil I could find and I didn't feel like paying that price..... Looks like I don't have a choice now until they certify a few more oils.

 

https://gmauthority.com/blog/2025/05/gm-6-2l-v8-l87-recall-good-engines-to-get-extended-warranty-coverage/

Some of the early information about the general motors oil viscosity change was incomplete.

Not all of the GM engine recalls will get a change in viscosity. New engines built with the proper specs will stick with 0w20. Only those that were built with the improper specs will get the 0w40.
So the thicker oil is a Band-Aid for motors that were not built properly. It is an attempt by GM to try to make those engines last long enough to not have to be replaced. That does not mean that thicker is better for everybody or all engines.

 

https://gmauthority.com/blog/2025/05/gm-6-2l-v8-l87-recall-good-engines-to-get-extended-warranty-coverage/

So the thicker oil is a Band-Aid for motors that were not built properly. It is an attempt by GM to try to make those engines last long enough to not have to be replaced.

If they can get these babys past the warranty then they are no longer problems. They are trade ins. (GRIN)

 

MOTOR OIL ENGINEERING TEST DATA

….On smart phones, “Q&A” CAN NOW BE ACCESSED BY CLICKING ON THE 3 HORIZONTAL BARS IN THE UPPER LEFT HAND CORNER…..******..With so many different Blog readers coming here…

540ratblog.wordpress.com

 

[I even running 5w30 in my 2012 3.6 pentastar for 150,000 miles with absolutely no sissues. The 5w20 or 0w20 is an EPA induced requirement, not an operational requirement.

EPA is getting straightened out post 2024.

 

Good job.....you're following your manual. So am I on my 2019 Pentastar. Zero issues here too, just as expected when you follow the manual.

 

My '18 GC is due for an oil change soon.
For kicks gonna ask my dealership's ever changing oil change mngr. if he can use 5w-30 or even 5w-20 instead of the watery 0w-20.
They must have those oil weights on hand because older 3.6 owners manuals recommended those heavier weights.
Know what the answer will be but will be interesting to see what he says.
My guess 'we have to go by what the oil filler cap says'.
Then maybe a bone yard oil filler cap that says 5w-30.

As an aside talking about oils and fluids....
Already talked to my dealership's trusted tech who is gonna do the transmission fluid change with a pan drop.
No DIY debating with myself there, some things are best left to the professionals.

Its also due for a spark plug change in a few thousand miles. Still debating with myself if i want to go through the hassle of doing it myself or have the dealership do it.

That love/hate ext. warranty "claim denied" is always on the back of my DIY mind.

 

My '18 GC is due for an oil change soon.
For kicks gonna ask my dealership's ever changing oil change mngr. if he can use 5w-30 or even 5w-20 instead of the watery 0w-20.
They must have those oil weights on hand because older 3.6 owners manuals recommended those heavier weights.
Know what the answer will be but will be interesting to see what he says.
My guess 'we have to go by what the oil filler cap says'.
Then maybe a bone yard oil filler cap that says 5w-30.

Most dealers will use whatever you like within reason...show up with 10/60 for your 3.6 and you will likely get some push back , but 5/30 shouldn't cause them any concern.
When we did the service work for our local police departments , the 5.7 vehicles got 5/40 and the 3.6 vehicles got 5/30.
That being said, there are some dealers who wont do it...these are usually the same dealers who will push service work that they know is not needed nor recommended by the manufacturer .

 

Here is an interesting study by an oil expert about oil viscosity.

 

Here is an interesting study by an oil expert about oil viscosity.

That's the video I posted last week in post number 336 of this thread.
I think there's a lot of great information in that video, from someone who is more than qualified to present it.
He has a lot of very informative videos about modern lubrication and science behind it.

 

The motor oil geek made that video before he had all of the details of the recall.
Go and read the first post that he has pinned in the comments. He speculates about a few things in the video and I'm quite sure he would have worded some things a little differently if he had known all of the details.
I can understand why he didn't want to take the video down but I think IF YouTube allows it, he should have added the disclaimer in the video information rather than pinning a comment.
Edit. Also pay very close attention to what he says from 17 minutes until the end.

 

Purchase the "approved" oil, keep the receipt and sell the oil to someone. Run whatever oil you choose.

 

Or how about, buy the "approved" oil; Scan the receipt, return and buy the "right" oil?

 

Seriously thinking about adding an additive like STP or Lucas.
Both have formulations for synthetic oil.
Seen a steel bearing test comparing 0W-20 and 0W-20 with STP synthetic.
The 0W-20 had twice the wear as the 0W-20/STP.

After a dealership oil change just siphon out a quart then add a quart of the additive.

Can't hurt since my engine is beyond broken in with 94K miles.
All the reason 5W-30 would probably work just as good.
Dam these watery oils.

 

Check here for a explanation as to why these additives are not a good idea. MOTOR OIL ENGINEERING TEST DATA

 

@ Moparado
Quote
"Update.
Always pass my dealership on the way home from my dentist.
Stopped by and asked yet another new oil change mngr. about using a higher viscosity oil for the Summer.
Nope, no can do. Have to go by the factory oil specification.
Didn't pursue it any further.
Thats that it is what it is."

Did you try a different dealership ? It worked out for me.

 

@ Moparado
Quote
"Update.
Always pass my dealership on the way home from my dentist.
Stopped by and asked yet another new oil change mngr. about using a higher viscosity oil for the Summer.
Nope, no can do. Have to go by the factory oil specification.
Didn't pursue it any further.
Thats that it is what it is."

Did you try a different dealership ? It worked out for me.

The next nearest dealer is about 30 miles away.
If by chance my travels pass that dealer i'll stop by and ask. Can't hurt.

 

I would make sure the engines in these other countries also have the VVT.

 

This has already been covered, they do.
What they don't have is the EPA and unrealistic CAFE standards.

 

While not directly related to the Discussion Starter's post/question, I did read posts in this lengthy thread about cam/rocker issues so I think it’s relevant. Chrysler updated the Pentastar PUG cam/rocker issue with TSB 09-011-25 released in May as apparent manufacturing issue, releasing a repair kit with new cams and rockers.

09-011-25

 

Interesting and very relevant. I wonder what part of the "kit" has been revised - the cams or the cam followers (rockers). There's always been hints at "faulty" parts...poorly made Mexican cam followers, poor cam metallurgy, etc. in this and other discussions about oil viscosity. Personally I really don't know - they've revised the cam followers so many times and the issue never goes away. That's why I believe in the oil viscosity argument so much.

Also interesting that the TSB indicates that 2018-2022 Grand Cherokees are "effected" but it then states that this particular TSB doesn't apply to the Grand Cherokee (as it lists several other models but does not mention the WK).

Either way, I'm very glad I bought a Maxcare plan when I did. Been doing 5000 mile oil changes using Valvoline Restore & Protect and Mopar filters and keeping receipts. So far no tapping with my rig at 38,000 miles but I know it could happen any day.

 

I have been changing my oil at about 3000 miles because it looks really dirty when 6 months pass.
I suspect it could be Fuel Dilution because this 6 cylinder has Raucous Acceleration, bone stock.
I am not a hot rod, but I spend time on the interstate commuting and I don't drive in the slow lane.

In my previous 4.6 modulars, my oil Did Not look this dirty at 3000 miles. The oil change sticker fell off the windshield one time and I drove 8k miles between that change. I still don't think the oil looked this dirty.

But, that 235HP V8, and the two before it DID NOT have the Punch this V6 Pentastar does. They were Only 4200 lbs too.

My 4x4 Jeep is 300 or 400 pounds heavier.

There has to be More Fuel Delivery in that Equation, to my thinking.

I have replaced the MAP sensor, even though it runs, Idles right, and has less that 50K.
Because, drilling the orfice wider on a Modulars MAP sensor is a way to bump fuel delivery, and acceleration.

I couldn't be sure the previous owner of my Laredo did not mod it.

I am just satisfied with the improved goose, ride and brake power the JGC has over my previous Town Cars.

So, I'm Ok with 3k changes.

One last thing. Our other car has a 3.6 VVT also. That motor was also prone to Valve Train Failure before Dexos.
So I use 5w30 Dexos in the Cad AND Jeep.

And no, the oil in the XTS does not look this dirty at 3k. But, it does Not launch like the JGC either.

 

My 2012 JGC has the 3.6 pentastar, I drive it hard, 152k, and oil still looks very clean at 6,000 miles when I usually change it, 5w30 Pennzoil Ultra Synthetic/premium filter. I don't know why yours would be looking dirty.

 

I started using Mobil 1 5-20 and no change at all. Now that my warranty is over I will try Mobil 1 5-30 and see what happens. I have only injector noise so far, but that's been there since new. Its going to be 95 out today and for the next month or so, I think 0-20 is to thin, just my opinion.

 

A couple of weeks ago I just changed over to M1 ESP 0w30 after running mostly PP and PUP 0w20 for about three years. I will say, the cold start valvetrain chatter is gone and it does seem to run smoother. Yes, I understand its new oil, but even on WOT it just seems smoother, less vibration, etc. I will be sticking to the M1 going forward, everything I have read about it is positive.

 

A couple of weeks ago I just changed over to M1 ESP 0w30 after running mostly PP and PUP 0w20 for about three years. I will say, the cold start valvetrain chatter is gone and it does seem to run smoother. Yes, I understand its new oil, but even on WOT throttle it just seems smoother, less vibration, etc. I will be sticking to the M1 going forward, everything I have read about it is positive.

When I initially started delving into this topic last year, Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 emerged as a clear choice to run in these motors. The euro spec combined with that viscosity rating is perfect and there are many accounts just like yours all over the internet from Pentastar owners. The only issue is that the ESP 0W-30 is not certified to any current Chrysler spec (even though the euro spec far exceeds these ratings) so if you use it and then have a failure, Chrysler is going to give you the big crooked middle finger.

For those not under any kind of warranty, I'd highly recommend others do as you have, invest in a good filter and go no farther than 5000 miles between changes.

 

Pine Hollow diagnostics did a few vids on the cam issue and had one where the phasers wouldn’t work at idle but would phase at higher rpm. What they found was one of the oil galley plugs in the front of the cyl head was missing! These are easy to see right behind the phaser and should always be checked for tightness!

 

The 5.7s did they have MDS? If so any problems with MDS? I have always read that the MDS needed 5/20 to function properly. I have always used the recommended 5/20 in both the ‘07 5.7 and ‘17 3.6.

They did have MDS and I don't remember any issues with any of them.
I remember in training when MDS first came out they were telling us how precise they were and how the viscosity had to be right or there would be all sorts of problems.... We got the same speech when they introduced cam phasers on their engines... There is obviously an element of truth to it, but I just don't believe they are as finicky as they made them out to be.
My old boss had a RIPP super charger on his 3.6 Wrangler and ran 15/50 with no phaser issues. I think they recommended 5/40 but he beat the hell out of that engine so he went heavier

Pine Hollow diagnostics did a few vids on the cam issue and had one where the phasers wouldn’t work at idle but would phase at higher rpm. What they found was one of the oil galley plugs in the front of the cyl head was missing! These are easy to see right behind the phaser and should always be checked for tightness!

Yeah there was a TSB a while back for that issue. I never saw one myself.,but apparently it was a big enough problem to warrant a paper trail.

 

What is MDS and does my 2019 GC Limited 3.6 have it?

 

MDS Is multiple displacement system which is a cylinder deactivation system on the 5.7 engines .
It's designed to help fuel economy by allowing the engine to run in 4-cylinder, 6 cylinder, or 8 cylinder mode depending on engine load.
The 3.6 does not have it.

 

It may be that there was some truth to that but part of me also thinks it’s a smokescreen to make sure you use oil that goes is for best fuel economy. I like to do oil analyses on my engines every few years and the oil even 5/20 is always still in grade at the end of the oil change interval. I found it interesting to note with our Subaru (17 Forester) it is specified to use 0/20 but 5/30 is also recommended in warmer climates.

 

Agreed. I've got a little tree-hugger in me but if car manufactures are gonna recommend/require thin oils for friction, use plastic parts and aluminum blocks and heads for weight, ESS for fuel economy, and extended OCI's for the Biosphere, then give us extended warranties and/or better manufacturing.

 

Why not just use 30w straight oil, like
You use in your lawnmower.

 

I’m rather new to this forum and haven’t seen any prior posts from you, but I assume this is a joke?