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Installing the Rocky Road Rails and Adventure Rack

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12K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  0xDEADBEEF  
#1 · (Edited)
I will do my best to post pictures of the end product but since I did the install today myself all I can do is post how it went as an aid to those that might buy their product.
The product web site is here:
Grand Cherokee accessories and parts at Rocky Road Outfitters
It is a little confusing finding what you want. I called to be sure before I ordered and had the right configuration.
I ordered the roof rails and the adventure rack which is flat and you can add to it whatever you desire.

Ordering to delivery.
I was cautioned that this might take 6-8 weeks. I ordered on the 10th of Jan and received it today which is the 9th of Feb so I think they prefer to not promise an unrealistic delivery schedule since they build to order.
The rails were wrapped in shrink wrap with blue padded packing material and inside that was the material used for AC lines the black padded rubbery foam. It arrived in perfect condition via UPS. The rack was packed in a square cardboard box with each corner padded with the blue packing material and some square cardboard boxes to keep the outer box from being crushed. It too arrived in great shape with all required hardware packed in one of the cardboard crush boxes.

Once unpacked the directions suggest to remove the Torx bolts (4 per side) and mount the rails in the same mounting location. The Torx bolts I believe T30. One suggestion. If your factory rails have never been off you might if you wish to take them off by sliding forward then back to detach from a tab forward and back to clean under the factory rails. I also waxed mine and they were pretty dirty with leaves and other things that accumulate over 49K miles.
I suggest that you use a piece of padding from side to side to protect the roof and have someplace the lay the roof rails tools and hardware on. I used carpet then switched to carpet padding side to side which worked excellent but a padded blanket or cardboard will work fine too.

The instructions state to install the correct rail in the correct orientation loosely. Well there is nothing that tells you what is correct but looking at their install pictures. What you do is look at the mounting holes in the pads welded to the roof rails. There are two forward holes one middle and one aft. The welded pad is offset so that the left rail has more pad offset left than the right side. This is so that you rotate the roof rail top toward yourself (outside) at a 45% angle or greater to slip between the chrome factory rails. You then rotate the roof rail vertically and if will pop into place. I had to use a gasket scraper to slightly pry the front pad to factory roof rail so it would drop in. The right side dropped right in but the left side was a minor issue. Once in the factory roof rail location use the supplied Torx SS bolts and washers with a T25 and loosely attach them.
Do this for the right side too.
This is done so when the rack is installed you have clearance to move the rack and foot pads that the rack bolts to the rails with.
You get 6 footpads that attach with 2 U bolts per pad and two fiber nuts and washers. All hardware was SS.
The U bolts must be slipped in the top of the roof rails and then rotated to mount into the footpads. The U bolts are slipped in from each end to keep from marring the power coated finish.
I did all this carefully but still scraped some power coating when having to rotate the U bolt to allow it to align with the mounts holes of the footpads. This happened a few times and it never scraped all the way through. I think it will be difficult to have a perfect fit around the roof rail pipe and also into the footpad. I opened one U bolt up to keep from marring the finish on the roof rail but it was too wide for the footpad. I had to reduce the diameter again until it fit.
Most of the U bolts will fit very tightly around the roof rail. I just pushed the U bolt through the footpad mounting holes and loosely mounted the hardware. I started on one side did all 3 footpads there then did the other side. Having the roof rails loose really helps get the footpads in place.
I was missing on U bolt which Matt is shipping me priority today but this rack is very robust so it will not affect anything being off for a day or two.
At this point it is time to tighten the roof rail SS bolts using a T25 Torx. This can be a little tough to reach unless you have a T25 and closed end wrench since the clearance between the roof rail bottom and the bolt itself is close. I tightened all bolts then moved on to tightening the U bolts. It takes a 9/16" deep socket or closed end wrench whatever you prefer.
I started on one rail did it completely then did the other side. I also made sure each U bolt was equally tightened showing the same threads for each U bolt.
There are 12 SS nuts that need tightened on the U bolts.
Once done the rack is rock solid and I don't know what the weight capacity is but it will hold up to a lot of weight given the pads are spread out over a much wider area than the plastic feet of most racks.

I took my time start to finish was 3 hours and if I did this again I could cut 30 mins or more off of this. This included the unpacking, layout and prep of the vehicle too.

I plan to run this for a month or so them go back and check tightness of the hardware. The U bolts are all tightened with SS fiber nuts so I doubt they will back off and the roof rail bolts should stay tight too.

The directions provided by RRO aren't bad but some verbiage to give you a few tips should help your installation.

I am very happy with the rack and roof rails. I don't have a trailer and this will allow me to carry plywood and lumber other stuff too without worry of weight and damage to the roof.
 
#2 ·
As an update to this post I have put 500 miles on the rack. It does hum at speeds over 60 mph. After some extensive research looking into buying or building a fairing I read about using bungee cords to wrap around the front bar to disrupt the airflow. I decided to try this and wrapped bungees around all 3 bars.
Tested this today around 70 mph hardly a sound above normal. As far as I am concerned this solves my problem and also gives me some bugees when I might need them...
 
#5 ·
Mileage Impact

I can say with certainty after over a 1000 miles on the rack that driving at highway speeds impact the mileage 2 2 1/2 mpg. I go from a solid 29-30 to 26-27. I am planning to build my own custom fairing and see if that improves the mileage.
I really like the rack and have used it a number of times but that is a pretty big mileage hit too.
Be advised!!!
 
#6 ·
Wow that's a big drop in gas mileage. I feel the same way with the factory mopar cross bars. I feel I'm losing gas mileage along with the annoying wind noise that I get each time I drive so I'm taking mine off as well. Not worth the cost and trouble for the look imo.
 
#7 ·
I am going to try the fairing first then see what I get. The RRO rack is pretty substantial and would not be easy to pop on pop off so unless I get a trailer I will be leaving it on. I knew it would be some hit but that is substantial given on trips I was getting 30mpg at 70mph....
 
#8 ·
Fairing Install

I took a pretty big hit with the RRO rack and decided to install a front fairing to kill some of the parasitic drag I induced putting this thing on. I looked at Thule and other roof fairing manufacturers but nothing looked like it would work well so I built my own. I am going to test it out with an 800 mile trip in 2 days will report back what I get.
Previously I used to get a solid 28-30 interstate and after the rack install about 25-26.

Here are a couple pictures of the fairing. I used a Youtube video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtcsS5foO9g

which I copied the idea from. I need to redo the fairing as I was unable to locate Adele clamps and had to order them. I used zip ties until they come in.
 

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#9 ·
After 460 miles I can see that I have recovered most of my mileage lost to the RRO roof rack. I can get back to 28-29 mpg again from a drop to 25-26 mpg.
If you put a rack on like I did be aware you will increase parasitic drag a great deal and might benefit from putting a fairing in front of the rack....
 
#12 ·
i have the rhino rack bars, they're silent all the way up to 100+

i had ordered the RRO rack but just cancelled it - i don't know what takes them so damn long but closing on 2 months and my patience is at an end. Now that I see their rack makes noise it's just not worth it to me - i take long road trips, extra noise is no bueno

the reason i was trying to replace the rhino rack bars was just the stoutness of the RRO design - but there's really no need I suppose given these bars have been on for 15,000 miles to include heavy loads in a yakima skybox on a cross country trip.
 
#13 ·
took me one hour to install RRO rack and did so within 3-4 months of purchase of my 2013 TH for kayaks and paddle boards. on the car 5.5 years and am now getting a lot more noise than previously. tere was a significant drop in gas mileage from 23 - 25 highway to 17-18 but i have hauled lumber, cement board, furniture, you name it and these things do not not flinch. i now see some rust showing on the front bar, and there is a barely visible dip in the front bar, but they have not budged in all the years and 20k miles to where i needed to readjust or tighten anything. would confidently install any roof top tent systems out there too. but, am searching for a fairing since the wind noise has picked up in recent months. if i knew how to add an image i would share.