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Cool- I think mine falls into the service bulletin for the rear end clunking but it could also be the 100k mike oem shocks too. Appreciate the info!!
 

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Can you describe the symptoms which led you to replace the fronts?

My dealer continues to insist that they've never ever seen a QL strut go bad. I've got 150k miles and I've never seen shocks go that long..... the airbags are fine, but the shock is done. My dealer says I'm wrong.
I just replaced the fronts with remanufactured ones ..... on my 2011 with 125k miles. They were $235 each plus a $75 core deposit that you get back when you ship your old ones back to them with their box and prepaid UPS label. The dealer's labor was about $800. So much cheaper than getting the parts through the dealer. I've only drivien about 20 miles on them so far, but the front is noticably more firm.
 

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2014 Summit 5.7 4wd 20" tires swapped to 18", added all skid plates
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My fronts were replaced under maxcare due to air leaks in the rubber bladder. The new ones were enough "stiffer" that I could tell the difference but the old ones were not worn out by any means as far as their "shocking" ability. This was at about 70K. My overall experience with struts as opposed to shocks is that struts generally last at least 80K and may last 200K+. Shocks, OTOH are often sufficiently worn by 30K to be easily noticeable if not completely shot. Shocks are almost always worn out by 100K but it depends on how much the owner cares about bounciness as to whether the owner thinks they need replacing. I replaced the rears (not the nivomats) on my JGC at 60K not because the OEM were worn out (they weren't) but because I wanted a slightly stiffer shock. With all new struts/shocks my JGC feels slightly more in control to me but I would say that the vast majority of people who own these vehicles would not notice the difference. I am not directing that comment to people on this board, anyone here is very likely to be far more in tune to how their vehicle performs than the usual owner.
 

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2010 WH Grand Cherok
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Just replaced rear shocks in my 2012 GC Overland diesel air suspension ,with Bilstiens.(summit) 147.000s.Tightened up the rear damping a lot.shocks decline gradually from around 90000ks on .dependant on roads /tracks travelled etc.I will be replacing the front also ,as ride is getting bit floaty for my liking.However the cost of getting these to Australia has to be justified.Remember front struts do just the same job as rears.
 

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Wow, lots of good info in this thread. Thanks, all! I remain a bit confused, though. I have a 2012 WK2 (75K miles) with QL, bought used with not much in the way of service records. My first ever high-tech 4WD vehicle. Love it, but looks like it'll be needing front and rear strut/shock replacement probably within the next year or so.

What I gather from this thread is that the Bilstein 4600 (part # 24-225427) is a good replacement for the rear shocks. And indeed that is what my mechanic indicated on their repair estimate -- though at a high price of $390/pair. Looks like they should be closer to $150/pair. On the rear, the air springs / bladders are separate from the shocks, right? Looks like this is the correct air spring: Suncore Industries - Quadra Lift Suspension Air Springs Rear Pair - Jeep Grand Cherokee though my mechanic doesn't specify them as needing replaced.

And on the front, it's a combo air-spring-and-shock/strut, is that right? My estimate indicates part # 68069661AB for this, at a cost of $2400 for the pair. Looks like this is a much more cost-effective replacement: Suncore Industries - WK2 Quadra Lift Air Strut Assemblies Front Pair - Jeep Grand Cherokee

And MattC above linked to these remanufactured ones at an awesome low price: Grand Cherokee Air Suspension Parts & Conversion Kits but it shows different part numbers (68029903AE for left side and 68059904AD for right side) than on my estimate (68069661AB), so I'm not sure what's up with that. Did my mechanic spec the wrong part? And, MattC, how do you feel about them after 5 months?

And lastly, I seem to recall reading that the WK2's air suspension is totally sealed -- that it doesn't draw or release air to/from the atmosphere, thereby keeping moisture out of the system. Is that correct? And for anybody who's replaced air components, does the system remain sealed? Or do you have to empty it and refill it?

Thanks in advance for any input/advice!
 

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Wow, lots of good info in this thread. Thanks, all! I remain a bit confused, though. I have a 2012 WK2 (75K miles) with QL, bought used with not much in the way of service records. My first ever high-tech 4WD vehicle. Love it, but looks like it'll be needing front and rear strut/shock replacement probably within the next year or so.

What I gather from this thread is that the Bilstein 4600 (part # 24-225427) is a good replacement for the rear shocks. And indeed that is what my mechanic indicated on their repair estimate -- though at a high price of $390/pair. Looks like they should be closer to $150/pair. On the rear, the air springs / bladders are separate from the shocks, right? Looks like this is the correct air spring: Suncore Industries - Quadra Lift Suspension Air Springs Rear Pair - Jeep Grand Cherokee though my mechanic doesn't specify them as needing replaced.

And on the front, it's a combo air-spring-and-shock/strut, is that right? My estimate indicates part # 68069661AB for this, at a cost of $2400 for the pair. Looks like this is a much more cost-effective replacement: Suncore Industries - WK2 Quadra Lift Air Strut Assemblies Front Pair - Jeep Grand Cherokee

And MattC above linked to these remanufactured ones at an awesome low price: Grand Cherokee Air Suspension Parts & Conversion Kits but it shows different part numbers (68029903AE for left side and 68059904AD for right side) than on my estimate (68069661AB), so I'm not sure what's up with that. Did my mechanic spec the wrong part? And, MattC, how do you feel about them after 5 months?

And lastly, I seem to recall reading that the WK2's air suspension is totally sealed -- that it doesn't draw or release air to/from the atmosphere, thereby keeping moisture out of the system. Is that correct? And for anybody who's replaced air components, does the system remain sealed? Or do you have to empty it and refill it?

Thanks in advance for any input/advice!
The system is fully sealed,you can replace one or two air bags witout loosing too much nitrogen.I got the two rear shocks from Summit for around $150.00 US.Not having replaced the fronts yet ,however Suncore also have a listing for air bag incl shock strut.Rear shocks very easy to fit if at all mechanically minded.Should not take more than an hours labor to fit the pair.
 

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Wow, lots of good info in this thread. Thanks, all! I remain a bit confused, though. I have a 2012 WK2 (75K miles) with QL, bought used with not much in the way of service records. My first ever high-tech 4WD vehicle. Love it, but looks like it'll be needing front and rear strut/shock replacement probably within the next year or so.

What I gather from this thread is that the Bilstein 4600 (part # 24-225427) is a good replacement for the rear shocks. And indeed that is what my mechanic indicated on their repair estimate -- though at a high price of $390/pair. Looks like they should be closer to $150/pair. On the rear, the air springs / bladders are separate from the shocks, right? Looks like this is the correct air spring: Suncore Industries - Quadra Lift Suspension Air Springs Rear Pair - Jeep Grand Cherokee though my mechanic doesn't specify them as needing replaced.

And on the front, it's a combo air-spring-and-shock/strut, is that right? My estimate indicates part # 68069661AB for this, at a cost of $2400 for the pair. Looks like this is a much more cost-effective replacement: Suncore Industries - WK2 Quadra Lift Air Strut Assemblies Front Pair - Jeep Grand Cherokee

And MattC above linked to these remanufactured ones at an awesome low price: Grand Cherokee Air Suspension Parts & Conversion Kits but it shows different part numbers (68029903AE for left side and 68059904AD for right side) than on my estimate (68069661AB), so I'm not sure what's up with that. Did my mechanic spec the wrong part? And, MattC, how do you feel about them after 5 months?

And lastly, I seem to recall reading that the WK2's air suspension is totally sealed -- that it doesn't draw or release air to/from the atmosphere, thereby keeping moisture out of the system. Is that correct? And for anybody who's replaced air components, does the system remain sealed? Or do you have to empty it and refill it?

Thanks in advance for any input/advice!
The system is fully sealed,you can replace one or two air bags witout loosing too much nitrogen.I got the two rear shocks from Summit for around $150.00 US.Not having replaced the fronts yet ,however Suncore also have a listing for air bag incl shock strut.Rear shocks very easy to fit if at all mechanically minded.Should not take more than an hours labor to fit the pair.
I don't have the QL system, I'm only relaying along what I have read and understood about the system....

The system is sealed, and they put a special fitting on the reservoir so that only the dealer can service it with Nitrogen... ...there are some threads around about finding an adapter if you want to DIY....

If you replace an air bag, you're supposed to use the dealer electronic tools to command the system to pump all the nitrogen out of the bag and into the reservoir... ...after replacement it fills the bag with the nitrogen it recovered earlier.... this way the total amount is suppose to be close enough you can avoid servicing....

If your system leaked, an air bag blew or you replaced an airbag yourself, but didn't do the recover process yourself, you likely do not have enough nitrogen in the system and will need it to be serviced....

Although people have posted they replaced an airbag themselves, without doing the recovery process beforehand (since they didn't have the electronic tools) and said they didn't get any faults and warnings afterwards, which the system will recognize if its under serviced, or at least cause symptoms that sets codes and lights warnings.....

The servicing procedure again uses the Dealer Electronic Tools to the whole system through a process of pumping the nitrogen around and measuring pressures and temperatures.... ....it looks like the system requires a certain "mass" of nitrogen and the process helps you to scientifically determine that..... then its recommends the servicing to get to the right mass..... ....so you can imagine you want to service the system DIY with an adapter and bottle of nitrogen and tire pressure gauge, you're simply not going to get it right.....

I'm sure they use dry nitrogen to keep the moisture and oxygen out of the system, as well, pure nitrogen is much more predictable and better performing than dry air, (and most compressed air is not dry), so moisture I'm sure is part of it, but there are other reasons why they use pure nitrogen....

I have not read about any purging or vacuuming down process for replacing air bags, so I suspect its acceptable for getting a little air and moisture into the system... ...again, I haven't serviced a QL system, so I could be very wrong on that....
 

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I don't have the QL system, I'm only relaying along what I have read and understood about the system....

The system is sealed, and they put a special fitting on the reservoir so that only the dealer can service it with Nitrogen... ...there are some threads around about finding an adapter if you want to DIY....

If you replace an air bag, you're supposed to use the dealer electronic tools to command the system to pump all the nitrogen out of the bag and into the reservoir... ...after replacement it fills the bag with the nitrogen it recovered earlier.... this way the total amount is suppose to be close enough you can avoid servicing....

If your system leaked, an air bag blew or you replaced an airbag yourself, but didn't do the recover process yourself, you likely do not have enough nitrogen in the system and will need it to be serviced....

Although people have posted they replaced an airbag themselves, without doing the recovery process beforehand (since they didn't have the electronic tools) and said they didn't get any faults and warnings afterwards, which the system will recognize if its under serviced, or at least cause symptoms that sets codes and lights warnings.....

The servicing procedure again uses the Dealer Electronic Tools to the whole system through a process of pumping the nitrogen around and measuring pressures and temperatures.... ....it looks like the system requires a certain "mass" of nitrogen and the process helps you to scientifically determine that..... then its recommends the servicing to get to the right mass..... ....so you can imagine you want to service the system DIY with an adapter and bottle of nitrogen and tire pressure gauge, you're simply not going to get it right.....

I'm sure they use dry nitrogen to keep the moisture and oxygen out of the system, as well, pure nitrogen is much more predictable and better performing than dry air, (and most compressed air is not dry), so moisture I'm sure is part of it, but there are other reasons why they use pure nitrogen....

I have not read about any purging or vacuuming down process for replacing air bags, so I suspect its acceptable for getting a little air and moisture into the system... ...again, I haven't serviced a QL system, so I could be very wrong on that....
Very patient explanation which is technically right kind of procedure from the jeep.
But there is prven DIY solution.
Firstly, yes the fitting is proprietary special fitting but exactly the same as Automotive AC blue fitting. What you need is nitrogen bottle, regulator and hose made with AC fitting.
To avoid air getting in, lower all the way down to park mode, then disconnect fitting and blank it with tape or something. Best to allow no air in but not 100% required. small amount of air (moisture in it) is not super dangerous. many air suspension systems out there are using air only.
Then make sure new bellow compressed to let air out then put it on. You shouldnt lose much nitrogen. You can check and top up using above mentioned cheap tooling if you need it.
When they are at NRH (normal ride height) , the tank pressure shoule be about 170psi. more or less 10-20 psi shouldnt mattter, the tank is just a reservoir. The temp shouldnt matter much as well, as nitrogen is very stable to temp. Not meaning those in -20 countries.
Dont panic. they are just mechanical part controlled by control valve. Nothing super complicated. Ive done it never got any problem.
 

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Very patient explanation which is technically right kind of procedure from the jeep.
But there is prven DIY solution.
Firstly, yes the fitting is proprietary special fitting but exactly the same as Automotive AC blue fitting. What you need is nitrogen bottle, regulator and hose made with AC fitting.
To avoid air getting in, lower all the way down to park mode, then disconnect fitting and blank it with tape or something. Best to allow no air in but not 100% required. small amount of air (moisture in it) is not super dangerous. many air suspension systems out there are using air only.
Then make sure new bellow compressed to let air out then put it on. You shouldnt lose much nitrogen. You can check and top up using above mentioned cheap tooling if you need it.
When they are at NRH (normal ride height) , the tank pressure shoule be about 170psi. more or less 10-20 psi shouldnt mattter, the tank is just a reservoir. The temp shouldnt matter much as well, as nitrogen is very stable to temp. Not meaning those in -20 countries.
Dont panic. they are just mechanical part controlled by control valve. Nothing super complicated. Ive done it never got any problem.
Need to add more, before disconnect the line make sure disconnect battery first to avoid compressor running.
 

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2010 WH Grand Cherok
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Done 5000ks with new Bilsteins in the rear.Had a slight thump/ knock in rear before fitted,now worse.Should have fitted new top mounts.Anybody suggest what mounts are best,are Dorman any good.
 

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Done 5000ks with new Bilsteins in the rear.Had a slight thump/ knock in rear before fitted,now worse.Should have fitted new top mounts.Anybody suggest what mounts are best,are Dorman any good.
Always replace the upper mount of a shock/strut if they are separate with the shock/strut...... ....they wear just like the shock/strut, in some cases faster than the shock/strut.... ....with all the complaints of clunks in the rear, a tsb for a kit to rebuild one of the rear shocks upper mount, for the WK2, it does appear the rear upper shock mount wears faster than the shock.....

I used MOOG, but Dorman is just fine, AC Delco also....... .....Although I might think twice for other parts, but a shock Mount I would hesitate getting Mevotech or some of the other bigger brands......
 

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We have a 2011 WK2 with the QL. We have had it in to the dealer twice once last winter and once this winter. Our problem is when it gets ten below or colder the QL drops all the way to the bump stops and the pump will run until it fails for temperature. At the dealer last year they had a TSB that said to add methanol the the system. With a recharge that helped get through the winter. It returned last month so this time there just ran it through the diagnostic where it commands it up and down through a few cycles and it has worked since. They suggested replacing the rear bags, 118k miles on it. I will most likely replace the shocks with the yellow Bilsteins. I have great luck with them on many other jeeps. Thanks for all the info.
 

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Great info here from everyone - I think I have a unique situation though that hopefully someone has encountered. I have a 2011 JGC Overland Summit with QL and tow package, and I installed lowering links to drop the vehicle about 3/4 inch. Running 22x10 wheels with 305/35 lionhart tires.

I need to replace both rear shocks, they are leaking. I've seen the recos for the Bilstein 4600 and 5100's, despite all online retailers saying these wont work on a QL suspension vehicle, I trust all the info here that the Bilsteins will work.

My question is whether anyone has a suggestion of which Bilstein to use on my vehicle since I have installed lowering links. I saw that the 5100's are good for raised vehicles, and the 4600's for stock.....what about one like mine that is lowered, has anyone tried the Bilsteins (and which ones)?

Apologies if this is covered in another thread, but i searched and couldn't find anything.
 

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2014 Summit 5.7 4wd 20" tires swapped to 18", added all skid plates
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I'm not sure it matters whether you have lowered it or not, the amount of suspension travel is the same so since both of the Bilstiens have worked on these vehicles I would expect they would work fine on a lowered or raised one. I too saw on some sites that the 5100's were suggested for people who raised their vehicle but none of the sites indicated why they made that recommendation. If I was to guess my guess would be that the 5100's are a stiffer shock than the 4600's. Personally I would not want a stiffer shock as I have gone that route in the past on other vehicles and been unhappy with the harsh ride they caused. Perhaps Mongo can add something as to whether he thought the 5100's felt stiffer then the factory shocks and how much. I replaced my factory shocks with the 4600's and they were just a very little bit stiffer then the factory ones and just the right stiffness for my desires.
 

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I'm not sure it matters whether you have lowered it or not, the amount of suspension travel is the same so since both of the Bilstiens have worked on these vehicles I would expect they would work fine on a lowered or raised one. I too saw on some sites that the 5100's were suggested for people who raised their vehicle but none of the sites indicated why they made that recommendation. If I was to guess my guess would be that the 5100's are a stiffer shock than the 4600's. Personally I would not want a stiffer shock as I have gone that route in the past on other vehicles and been unhappy with the harsh ride they caused. Perhaps Mongo can add something as to whether he thought the 5100's felt stiffer then the factory shocks and how much. I replaced my factory shocks with the 4600's and they were just a very little bit stiffer then the factory ones and just the right stiffness for my desires.
I read on a Bilstein Distributors page, that the 4600 and 5100 are the same shock internally, i.e. performance wise the same, that the 4600 was direct replacement and the 5100 was had changs to support modifying the suspension.... ....for sporty cars and sedans/coupes the 5100 would support lowering, for trucks and off-road vehicles, it would support lifting....

For lowering, a shock might have to retract to a shorter distance, for lifting a shock might have to extend to a greater distance, and/or as we know the 5100 front shock/strut has a selectable position lower spring perch that allows you to raise the vehicle, in fact the lowest setting you can select will be a 1/3 of an inch lifted...

When I compared my 5100's side by side with the OEM, they did extend at least an inch further than the OEM, but length was the same..... ....I measured in the front the suspension had 1.25" more rebound....
 

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I read on a Bilstein Distributors page, that the 4600 and 5100 are the same shock internally, i.e. performance wise the same, that the 4600 was direct replacement and the 5100 was had changs to support modifying the suspension.... ....for sporty cars and sedans/coupes the 5100 would support lowering, for trucks and off-road vehicles, it would support lifting....

For lowering, a shock might have to retract to a shorter distance, for lifting a shock might have to extend to a greater distance, and/or as we know the 5100 front shock/strut has a selectable position lower spring perch that allows you to raise the vehicle, in fact the lowest setting you can select will be a 1/3 of an inch lifted...

When I compared my 5100's side by side with the OEM, they did extend at least an inch further than the OEM, but length was the same..... ....I measured in the front the suspension had 1.25" more rebound....
I'm not sure it matters whether you have lowered it or not, the amount of suspension travel is the same so since both of the Bilstiens have worked on these vehicles I would expect they would work fine on a lowered or raised one. I too saw on some sites that the 5100's were suggested for people who raised their vehicle but none of the sites indicated why they made that recommendation. If I was to guess my guess would be that the 5100's are a stiffer shock than the 4600's. Personally I would not want a stiffer shock as I have gone that route in the past on other vehicles and been unhappy with the harsh ride they caused. Perhaps Mongo can add something as to whether he thought the 5100's felt stiffer then the factory shocks and how much. I replaced my factory shocks with the 4600's and they were just a very little bit stiffer then the factory ones and just the right stiffness for my desires.
Ok thanks - makes sense, good point on the stiffness.....in the summer i run the 305/35's, so very little sidewall and the ride is stiff already.
 

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I read on a Bilstein Distributors page, that the 4600 and 5100 are the same shock internally, i.e. performance wise the same, that the 4600 was direct replacement and the 5100 was had changs to support modifying the suspension.... ....for sporty cars and sedans/coupes the 5100 would support lowering, for trucks and off-road vehicles, it would support lifting....

For lowering, a shock might have to retract to a shorter distance, for lifting a shock might have to extend to a greater distance, and/or as we know the 5100 front shock/strut has a selectable position lower spring perch that allows you to raise the vehicle, in fact the lowest setting you can select will be a 1/3 of an inch lifted...

When I compared my 5100's side by side with the OEM, they did extend at least an inch further than the OEM, but length was the same..... ....I measured in the front the suspension had 1.25" more rebound....
So I'm thinking from this I can go with either, and should decide level of stiffness I am willing to tolerate. Probably means the 4600's
 

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So I'm thinking from this I can go with either, and should decide level of stiffness I am willing to tolerate. Probably means the 4600's
I don't think Mongo had QL and he was, if my memory is correct, interested in a very small change in his "at rest" suspension height and that was the main reason he chose the 5100 over the 4600. If you tried to do that with QL the QL would just adjust the "extra height" right back out. Reportedly they are the same "inside" so I would use the 4600 if you don't plan on monkeying with the height adjustment feature on the 5100s.
 

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So I'm thinking from this I can go with either, and should decide level of stiffness I am willing to tolerate. Probably means the 4600's
Again, the only thing reliable I have seen on the relative stiffness between the 4600 and 5100, is that they are exactly the same... ...if you want a direct replacement shock, the 4600 is designed as that, if you want a shock to do minor modifications to the suspension the 5100 is designed for that.....

I had 4600's on a previous gen WK/XK, that the front suspension is very similar to the WK2.... ....I have 5100's on my WK2, they seem to be the same stiffness/comfort to me...

I don't think Mongo had QL and he was, if my memory is correct, interested in a very small change in his "at rest" suspension height and that was the main reason he chose the 5100 over the 4600. If you tried to do that with QL the QL would just adjust the "extra height" right back out. Reportedly they are the same "inside" so I would use the 4600 if you don't plan on monkeying with the height adjustment feature on the 5100s.
I mentioned earlier in the thread I do not have QL....
The 5100 front shock/strut has a selectable position for the lower spring perch, that will raise the front of the vehicle in several steps from 0.3"-1.25", the lowest setting is 0.3" higher than OEM, so it will be raised even if you if select the lowest position.... ...I selected the 0.75" lift, to take out some of the raked forward appearance of the stock WK2.... ...I measured before and after and it was exactly a 0.75" difference...

Bilstein does not make a front shock/strut for the QL suspension....
The front Air Strut is a Unit, but its a front shock and air bag pre-assembled.... ....to fit the air bag may have required changes to the shock or removing/installing the air-bag might require special equipment a dealer/shop/DIY'er would never have.... ...perhaps it's like a lot of wheel bearings today, that removing it can only be done by breaking it, it was only designed to press-in a new one, pressing out the old one breaks it.... ....or maybe they just wanted to make extra money by only offering the front shock/strut and airbag pre-assembled....

To try to take an air bag off the OEM Air Strut and fit it on an aftermarket strut, it will just be speculation... ...perhaps it would work, perhaps it won't and you'll have to try to return front shocks you scuffed up trying to install air bags on them.... ....or you'll damage the air bag trying to remove it....

I saw an how to about swapping the OEM air bag onto a new front shock/strut for the Mercedes SUV that was co-developed with the WK2.... ...it looked just like the WK2 air strut, but they are lots of difference between the Mercedes and Jeep version, so it doesn't mean it's the same for the WK2 air-strut...

The QL would remove any change you try to make in ride height, and it would do it by deflating/inflating the air bag till the correct the ride height back to normal.... ...this results in a different spring rate, so you end up with the front airbags being too hard/soft and negatively affecting ride/handling.... ...but again, this is assuming you can fit an airbag over an aftermarket strut, that it is not known, and as far as FCA is concerned, they are saying they only come as a pre-assembled unit...
 

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Again, the only thing reliable I have seen on the relative stiffness between the 4600 and 5100, is that they are exactly the same... ...if you want a direct replacement shock, the 4600 is designed as that, if you want a shock to do minor modifications to the suspension the 5100 is designed for that.....

I had 4600's on a previous gen WK/XK, that the front suspension is very similar to the WK2.... ....I have 5100's on my WK2, they seem to be the same stiffness/comfort to me...


I mentioned earlier in the thread I do not have QL....
The 5100 front shock/strut has a selectable position for the lower spring perch, that will raise the front of the vehicle in several steps from 0.3"-1.25", the lowest setting is 0.3" higher than OEM, so it will be raised even if you if select the lowest position.... ...I selected the 0.75" lift, to take out some of the raked forward appearance of the stock WK2.... ...I measured before and after and it was exactly a 0.75" difference...

Bilstein does not make a front shock/strut for the QL suspension....
The front Air Strut is a Unit, but its a front shock and air bag pre-assembled.... ....to fit the air bag may have required changes to the shock or removing/installing the air-bag might require special equipment a dealer/shop/DIY'er would never have.... ...perhaps it's like a lot of wheel bearings today, that removing it can only be done by breaking it, it was only designed to press-in a new one, pressing out the old one breaks it.... ....or maybe they just wanted to make extra money by only offering the front shock/strut and airbag pre-assembled....

To try to take an air bag off the OEM Air Strut and fit it on an aftermarket strut, it will just be speculation... ...perhaps it would work, perhaps it won't and you'll have to try to return front shocks you scuffed up trying to install air bags on them.... ....or you'll damage the air bag trying to remove it....

I saw an how to about swapping the OEM air bag onto a new front shock/strut for the Mercedes SUV that was co-developed with the WK2.... ...it looked just like the WK2 air strut, but they are lots of difference between the Mercedes and Jeep version, so it doesn't mean it's the same for the WK2 air-strut...

The QL would remove any change you try to make in ride height, and it would do it by deflating/inflating the air bag till the correct the ride height back to normal.... ...this results in a different spring rate, so you end up with the front airbags being too hard/soft and negatively affecting ride/handling.... ...but again, this is assuming you can fit an airbag over an aftermarket strut, that it is not known, and as far as FCA is concerned, they are saying they only come as a pre-assembled unit...
Thanks again, I ordered the 4600's. Also decided to get a Hellwig rear sway bar and bwoody end links.....
 
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