Did this ever get resolved for you? Your situation is literally identical to what I am dealing with…

 

What's described sounds a lot like the evap is freezing up from a combination of low refrigerant charge and high humidity. Ice forms on the evap coils and blocks the air flow. To test this, shut the ac off (just push the AC button to turn the ac off, don't adjust or push any other buttons) and continue to drive. If that is the problem, the ice will usually melt and air will start blowing again over the next 10 or 15 minutes.

 

We have the same issue with our 2019. It is the evac coils freezing up. Our 2000 Dodge Durango used to do the same thing. Turning off the AC at the button on the dash for about 10 minutes fixes it every time. Since this doesn't happen very often on our Jeep, we've just learned to live with it. I do need to change the cabin air filter, but guessing at some point I'll have the refrigerant level checked and adjusted. Hopefully we don't have a leak somewhere.....

Keith

 

That doesn't make sense for the battery draw though.

 

It makes even less sense since the OP said it did it with heat or air conditioning and the heat is not going to freeze the evaporator

 

I noticed the OP never came back....another one and done. But agree, if this is happening with the heater on, then freezing of the evap coils isn't the issue. However, I know that when mine stops blowing because of what I believe is the freezing of the coils, turning the heat on doesn't start the airflow immediately; it takes a few minutes for the coils to defrost, and then hot or cold air comes out.

Re: power drain, I'd be curious how the OP knew this was happening. Did the voltage drop on the gauge cluster? Or something else? @kjpeak, can you be more specific re: battery draw, and what symptoms you're seeing?

Keith

 

I dont think its the evap freezing. Its almost negative temperatures where i live and happens with the heat on as well. I have literally no other symptoms than the lack of air flow and the battery keeps dying if i dont drive it for more than 24 hours . I replaced the battery after the first time it died ( the alternator is reading perfect) and when that didn't work I took it to the dealership. They told me that the battery failed their test, so I'm replacing it once again( thank goodness for warranty) . They also told me that the blower motor was failing so they replaced that but to no avail. I'm still dealing with the same problem.

 

When you have this happen (no air flow with the heat on), is the AC turned on? Most new vehicles run the AC even with the heat or defrost on in order to keep the windows from fogging up, as the AC will dry the air. I'm really wondering if your coils could still be freezing, even though the system is trying to blow warm air? Does the airflow reduce gradually, or all at once? Asked differently, does it start out blowing fine, then slowly decrease volume until the fan is blowing full speed, but nothing is coming out of the vents?

As far as your battery dying, you could have just gotten a bad one when you replaced it recently......that does happen.

keith

 

It seems to work just fine if i also stay at a lower speed but once i get on a high way thats when it starts to fail. The system works fine and gradually slows down and then stays consistently at a low near noticeable speed. It's never stops completely.

I'm pulling the battery tomorrow and putting a new one in. I'm gonna charge and test the battery myself to see if that's the issue.

 

I'm dealing with the exact same issue right now hectic the Florida heat

 

Did anyone find out the issue? I have the same problem. Temperature outside where I live is near freezing and the heater fan will NOT turn on by either adjusting auto-temp to 80 degrees or turn the fan to the highest setting.

 

The answer to everyone's question is the blower motor module/resistor. Check for bad fuse and relay, if they check out move under the dash with a test light. Check your power and grounds, if they check good and you still want to do more testing, unplug the blower motor. The terminals will be marked - on the housing. Jump 12v to the blower, if the blower comes on then boom you have your answer. Blower motor resistor/module.

 

I took my 2019 to Firestone they said to replace the blower motor. But when I told them I had to wait to pay for it 375.00 . I picked it up and the a/c and heat were both blowing now . Before the a/c and heat were engaging but no fan blowing. They did something to reset a fuse on the blower motor I think . It worked good for 3 months now today it has broke again. While waiting in 100 degree's heat. 2nd time blower motor just started clicking and slowly died. Anyone else have this fixed yet.

 

I am having this same issue with my 2019 Grand Cherokee. I am certain it is something with the blower motor. I can smack the glove box and it starts going faster. I am going to start there and see what happens. Mine does this is cold or hot weather. Sounds like something is almost impeding the blower motor at times.

 

I just started experiencing the same issue with my 2019. Sometimes it works fine, other times it does not. It is very intermittent. It happens with heat, defrost, or AC.
I am going to the dealer next week to see what they say, but of course, I will not be able to duplicate the issue then...

 

This exact thing is happening to me. I went to the dealer they replaced blower motor it was fine for like 2 days and now it’s back to the bs. They replaced both of my batteries too and when i went to go pick it up the car was dead and they kept it another week because something was drawing power so not sure if the blowers and battery problems go hand and hand. I have to bring it back AGAIN

 

Previous commentor was on the right track. Blower motor resistor is most likely culprit. Rare ish but most likely the issue.

 

2018 Jeep Grand Cheeokee Ltd. I was having the same issue with the ac working for a moment and then intermittently blowing cold air and then no air. Replaced the blower motor resistor and the ac worked fine for a day but the problem returned. If anyone knows a fix, even after replacing the resistor, i would like to know what you did.

 

For the battery going dead you really have to do a parasitic drain test; Lisle makes a nice harness to easily do this. In order for the battery to not lose charge all the modules have to time out. One may be staying on draining the battery . There is always some draw to keep memory functions in the computers but it shouldn’t exceed about 30 milliamps if I recall.
The heater fan resistor sounds like the culprit. I had a similar problem on my old ZJ. Fan just randomly cuts out. What I found was a partly melted connection in the heater fan harness. The terminals were too small for the load of the current flow. The cure is to wire around that connection using larger terminals.

 

Experiencing the same issue right now. 2021 grand Cherokee. Replaced both batteries and blower motor resistor. The issue came back 1 hour later. Next step, blower motor assembly itself. Hopefully that fixes it! I’ll keep you posted!
Also experiencing a noisy engine whine consistent with accelerating. Anyone have that???

 

Update: so far I’ve replaced both batteries, blower motor resistor, and blower motor assembly. Worked for 8 minutes on test drive. Then lost blowing air. It is NOT specific to a/c or heat. Rear vent follows suit. I am at a total loss. Also getting a “whine” that follows acceleration, started at the same time. Also, a hissing/vacuum noise at the dash/back of motor long after I shut the vehicle off. Any thoughts anyone? 2021 Grand Cherokee 3.6l WK2

 

My 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited has the EXACT SAME symptoms to a T. So far they have replaced heater coil/condenser, both batteries, alternator. It’s at the dealership now. It has them scratching their heads. About $3,500 so far and nothing has changed. So frustrated. I love my Jeep. I have 213k miles and no major issues other than the normal wear and tear.

 

Have you had it fixed eventually?

 

So just wanted to say I dealt with this same exact issue for 8 months on my '19 JGC Overland. Dealership looked at it twice with nothing. It definitely was not the blower as I could hear it bump up in speed when turned up to lvl 7. Simaltaneously I was also having the battery drain till it was just crazily needing jumped if not started again after 8 hours. Both batteries replaced. Same issue. Then I decided to disconnect both terminals and wrapped them of the start/stop battery. After running with this for a week, the issue (after 8 months of consistely being this way) it magically just stopped happening. BOTH ISSUES. It's been doing great for 3 months now (knock on wood). During all of this, I even performed the drain tests myself. Could not find the issue at all going through ALL fuses, etc. I'd never seen anything like it and the dealership was outright confused. I hope this helps spread that magic for you all!

 

I’m going crazy with this too. What do you means when you said that “wrapped them of the start/stop battery”. I have changed the resistor twice and nothing.

 

I would get the vehicle scanned with a scanner that can read all the codes, that will likely point you in the right direction

 

I have had this same issue with my 2018. I've replaced the hvac control module and actuators and nothing fixed it. I didn't think the evaporator was freezing. I've been driving around with the hvac system off, I went to add washer fluid and noticed the ac lines to the compressor were frozen. Ive also had my battery die on me twice. After a quick diagnosis I found that my ac compressor clutch was engaged all the time even with hvac system off. Pulled the fuse for the compressor clutch and it disengaged. The compressor clutch staying engaged will also explains the parasitic draw on the battery. Luckily where I live it's getting cooler so this has bought me some time to figure out what is telling the clutch to stay engaged.

 

The compressor relay which is internal to the PDC is likely staying latched. If so, a new PDC will be needed.

 

Same here, I just had my AC/AIR system fail driving in Florida. Sounds identical to the original post. I turned the system off for the remainder of the 2 hour drive, and when we got to our destination I turned it back on and got full air flow and cold air... I also notice what sounds like the AC compressor constantly making adjustments, like a wooshing sound while driving or stopped. Does your system make that noise as well?

 

That sounds like a low system charge. I would get it checked.

 

Same issues here...2019 Grand Cherokee...blower failed two hours into a drive, started working fine last night/this morning. Today it went out again on a long drive home...car has been off for two hours, just went and checked and it seems to be blowing now although not at full power...seems to be a pretty common problem by the sounds of it.

 

Add me to the list (‘18 TH 97k miles). Like the OP, I’m also in Western PA and this couldn’t have happened at a worse time as we’re now in 20*/30* temps.

Before it actually died like this today, I’ve been noticing it has been taking longer for the fans to turn up - maybe even a minute or two - but at least I had heat. I’ve also noticed the HVAC hasn’t been as silent recently which seemed like it was the fan, but I just chalked it up to being high miles and could live with it since basically sounded like a fan from a car build in the early 00’s or something.

Not sure if those details may help someone in the future. I’ll be trying to find a fix ASAP; the very least just have some heat and defroster.