Did you use the correct freeon? Newer vics have different freeon type.

 

Rather than screw around with your a/c system, I would take it to an a/c specialist and have them do an evacuate and recharge.

 

I agree! The A/C system should only be serviced by someone with the proper equipment and knowledge. No one knows what's in the cans from the auto parts store, and they could harm the system or the user if not used correctly. The modern A/C service machines add exactly the proper amount of the correct refrigerant, and will detect any system failures.

 

Make a recording of the sound. Maybe all you're hearing is residual pressurized freon going thru the expansion valve and into the evaporator in the dash. Since each freon has its own type of adapter fitting I don't think you used the wrong freon.

 

If the cooling fan is running at full tilt, that probably means your high-side pressure is too high.

Adding a can of refrigerant rarely works out well, regardless of what it says on the can.

 

And those cans with the useless built-in fake gauge all contain "stop leak," which is an added layer of bad juju. Stop leak additives were bad in the olden days and they've only gotten worse as newer systems use smaller passages and fancier plumbing and materials.

To quote the service manual:

A/C system should be tested prior to refrigerant recovery if the use of A/C system sealants are suspected. These sealants have the potential to clog refrigerant recovery equipment and cause vehicle A/C component damage.

If sealants are detected in an A/C system, the system should be treated as contaminated and replacement of the entire A/C refrigerant system is recommended. A/C systems found to be contaminated with A/C system sealers, A/C stop-leak products or seal conditioners void the warranty for the A/C system.

 

What's in the can is stated on the cans. There's no mystery as to the contents. The gauges for the "kits" aren't fake. They may not be quite as accurate as a manifold set but they are plenty accurate for their purpose. As to sealants, the cans sold in retail don't have the "bad" sealants in them, they just have a bit of oil with seal swelling agent. If that's a worry just buy the plain cans like Walmart sells that are 134a with nothing extra, which is what I would recommend, all the other stuff, the extra chill, the synthetic, the sealant, is all overpriced marketing gimmicks for the most part. It's not a problem but really not needed. The "bad" sealants almost always come labeled "for professional use" or "Heavy duty" and usually are in a single can, not spread out over lots of cans. They will have detailed instructions for prepping the system before installing and in particular evacuating to good vacuum. They work by finding their way to the leak and as they "leak out" and make contact with the air they solidify. I would not use them but some people who do this for a living do.

On the basic issue of someone wanting to use a kit to get their system going again I don't see a problem with it as long as they follow the instructions and pay attention to the signs of overcharging the system. Everyone has to start somewhere... learn buy doing. I didn't learn to wrench by taking my car to a mechanic every time it needed something.

 

learn buy doing.

Appropriate typo

 

My experience: I'm used to older systems where you can overcharge the system (not great), and I had done a non-Jeep and the system would detect the overcharge and stop the compressor. Made the vehicle drive poorly too, as the compressor would kick in and out. Solution was to let a little refrigerant out and normal operation ensued.

I believe I had similar with my 2013 GC V6. The modern systems are picky as to how much you can put in.

(Also, running the system a bit will disperse the refrigerant and the oil charge. This can solve itself in short time. This might be the source of the whistling after shutdown)

If you're getting cold air, that's a positive sign. If the compressor is cycling, then you have an issue: too much or too little charge. Putting the gauge on the port can tell you if you're getting too much.

Note: A/C works by exploiting the energy required to make a phase change, from liquid to gas and back again. You can't get a good reading without the compressor running: having a minimum amount of Freon in the system with vehicle off can read as a high pressure, same as having a full charge or more (same is true on a propane gas grill cylinder: the pressure just tells you gas is present, and it can't really tell you the fill level until you're at the end of the tank). A compressor that is able to run continuously with the engine speed around 1500 - 2000 RPM is an excellent indication that the fill level is correct.

When the compressor is running, ideally there is a high pressure side and a low pressure 'suction' side. When you turn off the motor, these different pressures will equalize: this is the hiss you're getting. If the valve that regulates the pressure is obstructed, it could be the source of the sound, and I'd hope that it'll clean itself out in short time.