[Seakir]

Forgot to mention that all other warnings including battery light never lit, and from previous experiences when alternators have gone, the battery indicator illuminates brighter with engine revs, but I won't dismiss alternator just yet either 👍

 

[Seakir]

Thank you for the heads up mate on alternator checking. That's the only thing I've got to check but weather been crap here all day, so I might get the chance to pop battery back in tomorrow to check it 👍.

Main concern I had was for water getting into electricals after popping hood, but its had 36 hours to dry out and a bit of a relief with what you say, as I wiped it dry when I noticed it.

I got the battery back in Dec 2017 as an Xmas prezzie. Luckily I have proof of purchase and it had a 5 year guarantee, so the shop will test and replace if its shot as it still has 10 months on it. However, during my research yesterday, I didn't realise batteries don't last past 3-5 years or so if you're lucky, so always get that long guarantee if possible.

The diesel engine in mine is a 5 cylinder with the glow plugs drawing 125 amps, equating to 625 cold crank amps needed for it to start, so I think it's done pretty good considering 😀.

The diesel indicator flash back I'm unsure of, so I'll read up on it tomorrow and see if that's anything I've experienced with mine.

Hopefully, I can get battery swapped tomorrow though and all is sweet. If not, then this post might end up being longer than anticipated. In the future though, I'm making sure there's some wood around to touch for the next time I tell someone how good the Jeep is behaving 🤣.

On another note- when I've had batteries bugger up in the past, it's usually cold morning start ups. This may be the first time I've had one go while driving, and that check gauge light I noticed was occasionally relighting then turning off after the engine was fired up a few weeks ago. If it is the battery or alternator and it alerted me in the fashion it has, then it gets my thumbs up for picking it up and preventing further damage.

 

[Seakir]

No luck today for doing anything to the jeep- now we have storm Franklin after storm Eunice. I can't understand why they just don't just say 'a week of storms' and be done with it, instead of naming them between these little breaks of a few hours that gives us home mechanics some hope that we can get out there and do stuff.
(Must be some kind of meteorological competition to see what letter of the alphabet they can get to?
Anyways, its traditional for us Brits to moan about the weather, so with that out of the way...)

Battery is now on 2 (if charger indicator says that 1 is fully charged) and it's green indicator light is starting to show- 48 hours total on trickle charge in my book means that it should've gotten to 2 sooner, so I'll be getting it load tested at the shop no matter even if it starts the jeep when I pop it back in to test. (No way I'm getting into the engine bay in these winds either- I don't fancy the jeep trying to knock me out by dropping the hood on my head like what happened on Saturday!)

A voltmeter test on the battery lugs with the charger connected reads 14.6 volts now (reading done on lugs and not the charger connectors) when yesterday it was 12.6 volts. Is this comparable to having it rigged to the alternator charging system in the car? If so, then I'm thinking it might be the alternator after all, if the battery is now accepting that higher charge. However, a previous battery did this trick and was proven knackered, as it would only accept the charge when it had x amount of power in it, so it's still 50/50 at the moment between battery and alternator. Who will win? The fix that costs nothing (battery replacement) or the one that'll cost about 120 quid (the alternator)?
Knowing the Jeep acronym, I'm betting she wants me to spend that 120 quid after all .

I looked into diesel indicator flash back- it seems to be when a diesel engine has a hydrogen canister system linked to it? Possibly LPG or bio-fuel, I'm unsure. Systems can also get put into gas engines apparently, to prevent flash back into the fuel line so a one way valve and a flame trap is involved. Mine hasn't got any of this, which is why I haven't come across it before. Mind you, because diesel is compressive and not combustive like gasoline, I guess that's why they have some kind of blow off valve in case things go tits up? Or maybe that's why diesels are prone to leaks as the pressure will eventually attack those gaskets and seals, which is why testing stations are allowed to let x amount of oil leakage through during annual roadworthy checks?

 

[Seakir]

That's max draw on cold start, depending on temperature, so I believe from past research when I had to rebuild the glow plug harness and swap the plugs a couple of years ago.
I think it sits on a warm day at about 75 draw amps and if the glow light stays on longer to get to temp, that's where the max draw comes into play, hence cold weather being a battery killer, especially for diesels as post temp glow light increases temp and draw for upto 30 secs I think.
Kinda makes sense now on the need for having a good battery with these things, especially when it comes to cold crank starting 👍
Also, the 1st and this 3.1tdi are the only 2 diesels I've owned. Prior to these it was petrol all the way lol
Guess I've focused on diesels for the last 10 years or so, so I definitely need refreshing with petrol systems 😅

 

[Seakir]

Biggest confusion of terms between Usa and Britain relating to car parts for me have to be:

Hood and bonnet (both are types of hat though)

Fenders and wings (where the wheel arches are- note, that I thought fenders were bumpers for years 😅)

Gasoline and petrol (or as I like to call either- 'go-go juice')

E-brake and hand-brake (aka 'Pull that mother so far up to prevent the missus from driving it, as she too weak to release it' failsafe)

Automatic stick-shift on the column and manual stick-shift with a third pedal (the clutch, to test left foot coordination with your hand, in order to become one with your engine b/s while trying to concentrate on the world around you as its trying to kill you... lets just not go there...)

And I've never driven the jeep with the stick in 1st or 2nd position- I shove her into those stationary to get some lubrication in the system for a few seconds after start-up, but I've never actually pulled away in them. I'm worried something might bust if that stick is moved without a foot on a pedal- we brits have a thing about pedals...🥴

 

[Seakir]

Well, I popped the battery back onto the jeep today, now the winds have finally died a bit.
Battery had gotten charged to 2 on the charger (0 being totally full) and she started up nice and strong.
After initial start up, the voltmeter gauge was:

The needle was farther left when the check gauge light came on last Saturday, sitting below the 11.5 volts mid-way it's at now. (14-9=5/2=2.5 added back onto the 9=11.5.) Note that I had full exterior and interior lights on with full beam, as well as the heater blower on full blast in the above thumbnail to try and present as much load and drain as possible on the system. When I revved her there was no change in headlight illumination, telling me that the alternator is good as no battery light came on either.

When she got to temperature, I turned lights off and noted oil pressure/engine temp were fine and reading normal levels. (Engine temperature is still cool at 1/8th, hence why I'm in process of swapping out coolant amount for distilled water to get that up to at least 1/4.)

After a quick drive up and down the road, I parked up and switched off, then tried another start up- all felt fine and no glow plug indicator flashing back on after she fired up in either start up sequences. I then noticed then that the volt meter needle was fluctuating, initially dropping then rising over about a minute, and it kept repeating this between these two examples:

The image on the right is just below where the needle used to hover before this issue occurred, and it would creep up to the 14 mark after a mile or so and remain there until engine turn off. The image on the left is the lowest the voltmeter has ever read, besides when the check gauge light came on.


No check gauge light came on at all. Do you think these readings are fine regarding the voltmeter and the variation of about 2 volts, or do you think they're low and too erratic indicating the battery is possibly on the way out, like I do? It doesn't matter if the accelerator is pressed or not, or if it's driving or stationary- the variation keeps repeating itself at these higher/lower levels.
Engine is still smooth and sounds strong/runs good. No issues with glow plug circuit lighting up again. However, I decided to insulate tape over the ecm connectors to offer protection against rain, as that's where I noticed water on the connector plugs which raised my initial query that if water did indeed get inside, then would it cause the check gauge light to come on as the voltage regulator controller for the alternator is in it?

Either way, I'm taking the battery to get tested at the shop tomorrow, and if they pass it then fine- I'll just keep monitoring the gauges as it might still be the alternator and I have breakdown recovery should it fail. If they fail the battery load test/amp draw, then even better as it means I get a new one because it's still under it's 5 year guarantee.

As I say, there's still life in the old lady yet (whilst I'm touching wood this time).

 

[Seakir]

Ps- the aluminum vs aluminium is in the spelling, as we all know. We add that extra i, effectively giving us an extra syllable and eum sound instead of um at the end. I don't know why. It really screws it up for some accents that we have, especially in the West Midlands where I live.
We Brits are renowned for over-complicating simple things like that...just look at Boris Johnson our PM...
and our fetish for clutch pedals
and bonnets

I don't think bloke is a derogatory term myself, but then again I can think of a lot worse to call some folk around these parts where I live
That bloke over there... That chap over there... That wanker over there... That gob-shite over there...
We have a lot of fond terminology for gentlemen of all categories that reflects how they project themselves onto us.
The average Joe is any bloke, chap, man, dude, fella, matey, mate, sir, amigos, etc. All good terms.
However, when they get too much booze in them, then it swings between friendly banter or fisticuffs, usually depending on how much crap they've got from the work or home front.
Bit like any bloke in the world really

 

[Seakir]

Hi Morse, I hope all's well and your hospital appointment went as good as can be expected.

I'm not worried about Jeep issues to be honest nowadays. We're on benefits as missus is disabled with back issues and I'm her full-time carer. This suits me as I'm not really materialistic but I like the simple things, such as having a vehicle running, so this check gauge issue has taught me new things and also refreshed old knowledge, which is good. (And I worked in factories for 17 years and as a carer in the community for 4, so I'm having a rest to expand my knowledge!)

Our circumstances also means I have time to maintain the WJ and work on a project I'm researching about serial-killers, which has replaced my studying for a degree in English Literature and Creative Writing with the Open University for now (which I was a year away from completing having done 5/6 years, but have put on hold while researching this project). Phew, so that's how I fill my time- splitting it between serial-killer shit, jeep-stuff, family life and choosing what crap to watch on Netflix that Sky hasn't played, whilst also trying to dodge Covid like everyone else!

Anyways, the issues with Jeep's breaking is an old joke amongst us owners called 'the Jeep thing' .

Just Empty Every Pocket .

You get to accept it, then eventually learn not to stress over the quirky issues they throw at you. This is when you get to learn new things by doing some research from what others have shared concerning their problems, and then treating every screw-up as a project instead of what they really are- parts crapping out due to old age that any home mechanic can try and have a go at replacing, which is the beauty of the WJ and older generation GC's as they are relatively easy to work on when compared to some really stupid layout ideas that engineers keep putting into a lot of their vehicles.

(FCA- I demand solid axles back in the GC before I buy any newer model GC beyond WJ. I also demand heated seats that work forever and blend doors that are indestructible, so we no longer freeze our butts off! And no, we don't want over-heating centre-consoles to compensate either! And while we're at it- all diesel manufacturers: get rid of DPF and go old school!)

I think patience also plays a big part of my problem solving processes, as it means being able to take a step back in my approach to any problem with a logical frame of mind which, for me, is more constructive than having an angry emotional frame of mind that clouds my judgement. This may lead to more positive solutions instead of losing one's rag and breaking things even more, which I used to do quite a lot when I'd get the old lump hammer out to tackle an issue- talk about using a wheel to break a butterfly!
Logical approaches also gets the brain into a problem solving mood for me, as my emotional judgements can cause me to grasp at straws and commit errors beyond what may be obvious solutions and answers, such as rounding that bolt even more or breaking that pipe through frustration. However, I do like trying to eliminate the variables by double/triple checking possible solutions, so there's definitely no problem in asking for ideas and opinions when problem solving, even if they may seem silly or stupid. In my book, such suggestions often generate outside of the box thinking and 'red-neck repairs' as my wife (a Texan-Cherokee) likes to call them.

I think rain-water did get into the ECM plugs, so allowing it to dry (if indeed it did) prevented any further problems. When it comes to anything to do with water and electronics, then I find it best to wait a few days once the issue is potentially identified and fixed before chancing it, so it can dry out properly. In this regard, I thank God for old hair dryers and plenty of insulating tape that I've now wrapped around those ECM plugs to protect it from rain when I pop the hood in the future. Storm Gertrude or whatever name these weather-people are going to give the next storm- I'm ready for you!

I didn't see anything on my EVIC display (Electronic Vehicle Information Centre) when I had the check gauge light indicator come on in the cluster housing. I just noticed how low the voltmeter needle was when compared to its usual position mid-way on the gauge, whilst the oil pressure and engine temperature were behaving normally. That check gauge light only signals a problem with the voltmeter/oil and temp, so it's always best to start with what looks the obvious- the needles themselves. The EVIC alerts me to low coolant, low screen-wash and doors/tailgate/hood open, which are the only ones I've seen displayed in mine. Oh, and the indicator left on alert after a mile of driving, as well as the Jeep beeping and going mad when the bonnet isn't latched down properly whilst driving.

The battery check is free, so it's a win-win for me. Either it's good or it's bad, and if it's bad I get it replaced for a new one that'll be good for another 4 years.
If it's good so it might be the alternator, then I'll order a new one, pop it on and recondition this one with new bushings so I'll have a spare for the future. (I busted my black voltmeter cable to check the alternator, so I'll repair it tomorrow and test it after the battery's been inspected and put back in.)

Anyways, there's plenty more to worry about than if the Jeep is running in my book. Health before wealth, I say .
And enough of my digressions. Keep us posted on any issues you've got with your WJ build mate, especially with the check gauge issue you mentioned.
Take care in the meantime.
Sean.

 

[Seakir]

It's pretty good atm matey
Battery still going for load test tomorrow at shop and testing the jeep today was good, as it started up no problems but now has a 2 volt discrepancy from 11.5 to 13.5 over a minute or so.
It never did this before, so fingers crossed I'll get a replacement battery tomorrow 👍
Otherwise, it's fix my voltmeter and check the alternator and circuitry between that and battery itself as you directed (which I'll end up doing anyways, even if I get a new battery, for piece of mind 😉)

Regarding gearboxes from earlier post- I've only ever had synchro-meshed, but experienced the forcing into gear tactic you've mentioned when the synchro busted in one of my older cars, a Ford Sierra. 2nd gear meshing busted and it wouldn't go into it, so I used to have to rev the pants off her in 1st to skip 2nd and jump to 3rd.
In the end, I just scrapped her when it's next MOT (yearly inspection) came up.

Oh, and then there was the 1976 vauxhall cavalier I had, whose clutch cable bracket through the bulkhead fell off, so I had to drive her with no clutch. It meant revving her to about 2000 rpm then slamming the gearstick into place while feathering the pedal.
Boy did that style of driving teach me a few things. I think if I tried that in a modern manual gearbox, it would kill it. Once I got home, I slapped a jubilee clip on the cable from the engine bay side and it held it against the bulkhead no problems after that.

That car also had falling drivers and passengers window syndrome, so changing the WJs over was a doddle 😆

 

[Seakir]

Hi mate and had some successes regarding this gauge light issue.
The 2 volt difference yesterday was after start up when I popped the battery back in and started her up. Pre ignition, it's level was 12v which is normal, then rose to the 13.5 and dropped to 11.5 in about a minute then would rise again back to 13.5. I wasn't sure whether this was normal after having the battery out for a while, as I understand some systems have to 're calibrate' for 20 minutes or so, which is how long I ran the test for.

This morning, before I took the battery to get checked, and after having left it connected in the Jeep overnight, I decided to start her up and see what the voltmeter read. It started up smooth with no problems (like yesterday). Now it sits at exactly 14v on the meter -its normal level.

Gobsmacked cat expression of wtf?

I took the battery to the shop anyway, just for my peace of mind. As they tested it. I explained what had happened on Saturday with the heavy downpour as I was checking the fluids, and the possibility of water ingress into the ecm connector because of the amount I noticed lying over them. He nodded that it could be a possibility, as the ecm voltage control regulator for the alternator might have grounded through the water and stopped the alternator from delivering charge to the battery, thus draining the battery itself as the system performed a 'protection' shutdown to prevent further ecm damage. I then asked him how the hell would I be able to drive it a mile home with no ecm functions, which kind of baffled him. He then asked how old is the Jeep and when I said a 2001 model, he looked surprised and thought it would be a newer model for doing this?
Any of this make sense to you?

I've temporarily covered the connector plugs with insulating tape now, with the intention of making a proper shroud to protect those connector plugs in the near future. I noticed that there's several connector plugs, so would it make sense if only one was compromised and the others functioned as normal within the ecm?

Meanwhile, the load check on the test read 810 amps. It's a 900 amp battery, so in 4 years and 2 months it's lost 90 amps but still has more than enough for the starter and 5 glow plugs to share. Does this 90 amps increase as the battery gets fully charged, or is that its natural yield now?

I haven't tested the alternator yet with the engine fired up- I broke the black wire for my voltmeter so I'm fixing that later and will start her up tomorrow and check if what the voltmeter is displaying at 14v is correct. (Bloody wind and rain is now starting up again, so I'm not chancing water ingress again!) I'm guessing the alternator is also fine (it's only 4 years or so old, but that means nothing with parts crapping out in the hostile environment of an engine bay).

So, from this experience, and if the alternator proves itself fine with the system no longer throwing up anymore 'check gauge' lights (which it hasn't during testing), then I may have something else for owners of WJ's to note if their ecm sits in the engine bay near the fender and fuse box- get it covered, so if you do have to pop that hood in the rain, you won't have it getting soaked and throwing a wobbly.





.

 

[Seakir]

It was the check gauge light illumination with a low volt reading that triggered it.
As it stands, no repeating of the fault yet, with about 30 minutes running it. I'll take it for a good drive tomorrow to see if it repeats, but so far it all seems fine.
The mechanic who tested the battery did ask if water got into any other components besides these plugs to which I couldn't see, but I bet more rain got onto alternator that I didn't see now you mention it, and allowing it to dry out may have rectified itself.
Stupid weather...or stupid me for popping the hood and not closing it quick enough when a downpour suddenly hits? 😆

 

[Seakir]

Now I've fixed the voltmeter, I'll be checking the alternator later. Thank you for figures and I'll relay readings when done 👍

 

[Seakir]

Roflmao at this Moparado...
I haven't been out to jeep today having a break from her lol.
However...do you play the daily Wordle? I've had a couple of goes and usually get it in 3 or 4.
Well today I played, and if you play it and it's the same word worldwide....WARNING If you read on it gives the Wordle solution for today in UK....

You asked me about bloke being a derogatory term in this feed, which is why I tried it 👍
About has 2 consonants, t being high in frequency usage for English and b being just below half in average uses, and any starter word with 2 consonants and 3 vowels to give a good feedback on vowels contained works for me.
1st time I've got it in 2 lol.

Thank you for the inspiration/idea of trying bloke hehe 👍

 

[Seakir]

Lol
Be funny if tomorrow's wordle is any of the following:
water or leads or volts or power or jeeps or leaks or chaps...
It would make me think someone at the NY Times is reading our posts.
My missus, who is Texan/Cherokee, remarked that bloke isn't an American word and couldn't get it in any of her attempts, so she was slightly miffed about it rofl.

I then told her how I got it and she said that's crazily coincidental, we're psychic or someone at NYT owns a Jeep WJ
And she thinks there's going to be a lot of miffed off American wordle players now 🤣

 

[Seakir]

Talking of solving one of life's mysteries.... (and look at this for a way to link back to my original post about the gauge issue- problem resolved! I have also began to notice that there's plenty of digression in my threads- I LOVE DIGRESSION! -read Catcher in the Rye- it all gets my thumbs up as tangents are the best!)

So, I got the old lady started up and popped the old voltmeter on the battery terminals (not the battery posts themselves) a couple of minutes later to get this reading:

That;'s supposed to be a 2, giving 14.12 volts from the alternator to the connectors.

I then took a reading from the battery posts themselves, to make sure the same voltage or similar was reading, thus indicating a good conduit between charge system and receiver:

14.17 volts, a discrepancy of +.05 volts. Seems to be good for me, as that would seem to be a trickle in the grand scheme of things.

I then checked the dash cluster to see if any 'check gauge' warning light was active, and to make sure the volt meter/battery charge gauge was also reading 14 volts, which is where it normally sat before this issue happened:

No check gauge warning active and although the needle looks below the 14v mark on the gauge, it's right on it from a straight-head viewpoint:

Took her for a test drive, repeating the route where the issue took place, and no problems whatsoever. In fact, she's actually got a decent kick-down without or with the turbo engaging, depending on how I press that pedal. She's more responsive with power feeling immediate, so I think taking the battery off then putting it back on to reset modules so they can readjust to new perimeters in the 20 minute window, seemed to have done some good. That, and the fact I took the MAP sensor out of the air manifold and cleaned about 4 mm of crud off it, may have just given this old lady another breath of life....

Thank you for the tips Moparado-the figures and processes regarding the voltage checking worked fantastically, and I'm now convinced it was from water getting over the electrical s when it down-poured that triggered the check gauge warning in this case. And what have I learned? Don't go popping that hood when the weather's crud!

 

[Seakir]

P.S. Today's Wordle is a right PITA. Got it in 4.
I think someone is reading our posts who makes these words up, as my usual approach of 2/3 didn't work...
Farts.
Let's see if they put that one in

 

[Seakir]

Also Moparado- you mentioned you're unfamiliar with the diesel engine in my Euro export model-

Its a 5 cylinder Vm Motori 531OHV (built by Italians but not Fiat). It's torque peak is 1800rpm, giving it a real quick low end power band that I love for our UK roads. She cruises very well, reaching 100 MPH in reasonable time and just sits steady and stable even at those speeds, but I haven't done that for a few years so I just keep her at the speed limits. (70 max- 60 usually, or even 55 to get the best fuel economy on flats.)

The VM had a bad rep in its first gen. models as the 4 cylinder 2.5tdi in some XJ/Land Rover applications if I remember rightly, so they added a 5th cylinder taking it to 3.1tdi with cast iron block/head, making it more forgiving when things go fubar. It's been through crap but always bounced back, and that's what I love about the WJ era- solid as hell (if rust doesn't eat them) with those gorgeous solid axles...yummy
Here's a photo, as we all love a good photo:

Plenty of space around that block, so it is misleading. And it's got the biggest friggin' serpentine belt I've ever had in any vehicle. Its a limited with tow package and an extra inch on its height from heavy duty coil springs to take the weight of that heavy diesel lump and everything else.
And she still goes MPG for 21 years old.
Maintenance ftw .

 

[Seakir]

Thats all great stuff Seakir but for me personally i would never own a diesel powered vehicle unless maybe i needed to tow a heavy RV.
Can also envision hard starting in the frigid tundra weather here.
Besides the diesel fuel around here costs significantly more than petrol fuel.
But the petrol fuel here in the Winter months is cut with propane or is it butane i forget which noticeably decreases fuel mileage.

On our UK roads, Grand Cherokees can basically command what's going on around them like any large wagon, truck, SUV or 4x4, which is always a good thing if you drive with good practise and the consideration of others at your forefront. (Ie- with good manners, which the majority of drivers do, but unfortunately there will always be those few idiots out there who ruin it for others.) Diesel made sense as diesels are known for better MPG if maintained and driven correctly, but I do love flooring that pedal at times to clear her throat and drop that 26 mpg to 3 on the EVIC, especially now that the oil seal stuff seems to have worked and that turbo grunts like it should.

We also do fuel at the pumps by the litre, not gallon, and with diesel being 156.9 at my local BP, and petrol sitting about 151.9, it averages those figures to about £7.12 per gallon average for diesel/petrol (+/- a few pence). Would you guys consider this bad, because we in the UK have been moaning about the cost of fuel for years and have often asked why can't we all pay the same price. However, this would be bad for everyone if the world fell in line with our higher UK prices, so I wouldn't want to wish that on you guys.

To be honest, I love both petrol and diesel engines. One goes boom boom, the other compresses. Both have their strengths and weaknesses, and my experiences puts its down to how I, as a driver, like my base platform to behave- with plenty of low-end power and torque that a diesel gives (perfect for speed-limit-driving and low-speed, off-road or hill-climbing applications) or higher torque-bands and higher-speed accelerations for long-distance/highway applications that petrol gives. I don't drive to work as I'm a stay at home carer for the missus, so I drive to shops and for pleasure/visiting family and doing errands, so we chose to make that choice of diesel for our circumstances. I will admit though, that I won't ever own a diesel with DPF. I refuse to be held for replacing those crappy things as an owner, knowing it's a shit system in the first place.

If this old lady completely fubar's on me and I can't replace with another 3.1tdi, then I would go for a petrol in those circumstances.
It's been a while since I owned a V6...

 

[Seakir]

I'll try and make a few videos of the engine running later, as she's not quite the rattler she used to be and the turbo grunt is sweet. Good thing about these VM's is that they like a bit of that engine reseal stuff apparently, but if she's still running strong in 16 months or so, then I'm going to do a full engine strip and gasket overhaul anyways, as the mechanics inside it are still strong (touching wood!) and there's nothing like taking things apart to learn how they work.
Jobs this year are: oil change to 15w-40, and see if the heavier oil runs better than the 10w-30 in her presently over the winter period, to finish the brake line swap (rubbers and metal lines) and brake pads change, fluids swap in the diff's and transmission (gearbox was replaced at 76k miles so it's approaching 50k miles old. Unsure if this needs doing yet as the fluid is still clean), last of the abs/handbrake cable swap into rear right wheel (other wheels done over last 2 years), and to do the bushes in the front suspension components. And also the suspension coils (dampers were done last year). I might also swap over the front hubs and bearings whilst stripped for bushes though, as they are 21 years old and look like they need a refurb.
All in all, the Jeep's got a busy year of swapping over old for new.