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Heavy duty brakes

56K views 49 replies 21 participants last post by  MAGIC84  
#1 ·
Does anyone know what the exact differences are between the "heavy duty brakes" on the hemi w/towing package and "regular" brakes?
 
#3 ·
My CRD came with heavy duty breaks as well, i think all the export CRDs do. The front rotors are also bigger by a fair bit. Regular brakes you can fit 17" rims over, heavy duty need to be at least 18" rims and the brakes fill almost the entire rim.

So bigger calipers, bigger rotors
 
#6 ·
Hi,

Would be interesting if you can easily swap the standard brakes to HD breaks?

New calipers, rotors and pads should be all then? Couldn't be that expensive and difficult. Question would be is it worth it?

Alex
 
#8 ·
Hello everybody;

I did some Internet research and these are the results. I tried to be exact as possible, but there wasn't that much information out so this is my best try. If somebody can confirm or correct me I would greatly appreciate it.:eek:

First of all, there are three sales codes describing the brakes;
- BRY - Standard Anti-Lock Brakes (Front-vented, rear-solid, for 17")
- BR6 - Heavy Duty Anti-Lock Brakes (Front-vented, rear-vented, for 18")
- BR1 - European Anti-Lock Brakes (Front-vented, rear-vented, for 18")

Part list for Front:
Front caliper and brake pads are the same for SD(BRY) and HD(BR6) brakes:
Caliper Assembly (for BRY and BR6):
Right - 68052362AB $156
Left - 68052363AB $156
Brake Pad Kit (for BRY and BR6):
Both - 68052369AA $131 (2x)
Only the adapters for the calipers and the rotors are different:
Adapter Disc Brake Caliper (for BR6):
Both - 68052372AA $22 (2x)
Rotor (for BR6 and BR1):
Both - 68035012AB $105 (2x)
Part list for Rear:
Rear brake pads are the same for SD(BRY), HD(BR6) and Euro (BR1) brakes:
Brake Pad Kit:
Both - 68052386AA $80
These are different:
Caliper Assembly (for BR6 and BR1):
Right - 68052380AA $70
Left - 68052381AA $70
Adapter Disc Brake Caliper (for BR6 and BR1):
Both - 68052374AA $26 (2x)
Rotor (for BR6 and BR1):
Both - 68035022AB $84 (2x)
All together looks like an easy upgrade, with a rough calculation it is about $614 (without pads) and I didn't look for the cheapest provider. Everything despite the parts above remains the same.

Actually the ideal moment for a swap would be when the rotors have to be replaced (the upgrade is about $240 as you have to buy the rotors anyway) .

Big questions remaining are;
1) How much better are the HD brakes?
2) Is there are reprogramming of the system required?

My personnel answers would be;
1) Based on the increased size and the vented rear, the brakes should fade less in towing and down hill
2) As the system is a feedback circle based on sensor input, it shouldn't be necessary.

Looking forward to your comments :)

BR
Alex
 
#11 · (Edited)
Ok,

But i guess they are way more then $600 (did some Internet research and the parts are ~$400 at the cheapest dealer), aren't they?

Question remains for both, is it worth the effort? :confused:Especially looking at the other thread talking about the Brembos? http://www.jeepgarage.org/showthread.php?t=25604

I would think that the standard brakes required certain improvement, while the HD brakes might be sufficient, because for Germany HD is standard for all models and you can run the car 200+ km/h if you want. Not that I would like to start a discussion about that again:D

BR
Alex
 
#16 ·
When I add my Vin, my build sheet shows I have Anti-Lock 4-Wheel Disc HD Brakes
but the Jeep dont have rear vented rotors....
It is listed under optional equipment though.
 
#18 ·
HD brakes are standard on a 4x4 Summit with the EcoDiesel (or Hemi V8) Engine...largely because of the standard Factory Towing.
 
#19 ·
There are only 2 options for brakes on the WK2 Grand Cherokee.

Front:
350mm or 330mm
Changing from from the 330mm to the 350mm is as simple as adding in a couple brackets to move the caliper out farther (and of course the larger brake disks).
68052372AA [2 required]
front caliper mount code BR6 Right/left

Rear brakes are the same diameter, but the 'heavy duty' brakes offer vented rotors.
Changing the rear brakes is more involved as the vented rotors are wider and therefore require new rotors and new calipers (and bleeding the brakes when you are done).
 
#20 ·
I've done the conversion from SD to HD brakes. I have a how to on the How To page. Todd3.6 did a good job of concisely summing up what is needed to do it.

Keep in mind, they both use the same pads. I really think the only difference in performance is that the HD brakes can handle more heat. So probably good to have if you Tow. But probably unnoticeable difference for anything other than driving that would heat up your brakes a lot.

I think in other threads they concluded the later WK2's the HD brakes came with the HEMI, TOW package and Diesel (Someone check me on that). The earlier model years, there was no discernable package that included HD Brakes, some had them and some didn't.
 
#22 ·
I doubt anyone can help you, you could search for cross-reference for parts commonality on this, that might help. But I highly doubt anyone has tried this, and the differences they create with the SRT version from the rest of the vehicle models, makes me lean against this being anything easy to do, i.e. very surprised if you figure it out and it does work.

I simply don't know, and I'd be surprised is anyone on the board does know.
 
#23 ·
I just got a 2020HA 4X4. With the 3.6 Pentstar. Performance it is more than adequate for me. I like the HEMI but not enough to justify the $3500 price. I felt so strongly about the V6 that I drove 100 miles away to find it since with the COVID dealers were very hesitant to even take dealer trades. Enough about that and I am fine with the V6.

with that introduction out of the way let me get to the point.

I am interested in the SD brake to HD upgrade and I am guessing....more like hoping that the procedure and parts listing would be pretty much the same since 2011 or at least later years, 2015/16 +

I understand that the rotors are significantly larger and the Calipers will need to be adjusted. What is involved in switching the calipers to accommodate the new thicker rotors? Is it a new caliper bracket? Which I would understand. Would it be a matter of the new caliper and or longer bracket
Mounting bolts or a combination of both?

I am interested in the upgrade mainly to get the vented rear discs....but if I have to change out all four corners to accomplish the task then so be it. I will be on the prowl for some black or gunmetal powder coated calipers. Not a big fan of the red but that’s me.

When the new caliper is installed and system bled will there be any more vehicle steps as in will the ECU andmor ABS control module reprogrammed?

I don’t mind the work of getting this project done but want to make sure I am not screwing up any modules.

Second part of that question is.....will this void any warranty?

If this is simply a matter of R/R the calipers and replacing the caliper bracket with the modified version to accommodate the wider, thicker rotors and bleeding the system than I think I could handle that.

I mainly need the HD caliper and modified caliper bracket/ housing from Dealer. I am planning on PowerStop rotors and R1 Concepts slotted rotors unless Power Stop or other vendors come along with slotted rotors.....not drilled and slotted, slotted only.

Based on the chatter in this thread it appears that there are kits out there to convert Standard duty to HD so that is good......unless the upgrade is not available for 2020 models in that case I will be very disappointed.

What do I ask for when ordering and can I just bypass the dealer and go right to vendors since I know that I need the BR6 brake package? If they ask for VIN they are going to find out that vehicle isnSD brakes.

There are some previous vehicles that I found a VIN on the dealer lot that had what I needed d used that VIN to order special parts
 
#24 ·
Doing some follow up. I guess the biggest question is.....

does the HD caliper bracket bolt onto the axle hub the same way ass in will that be the same bolt spacing or is there another adapter needed? If the caliper bracket is the same bolt spacing then it is just a matter of bolting the new caliper and rotors to the bracket.

Second part of that question is..........

Will the existing SD brake caliper bracket mounting bolts work or as I suspect will the bolts be longer? Or is there another adapter plate that I am not visualizing?
 
#25 ·
Re reading a few posts I think I have my answer......

Dealer visit to order the new brackets. Front X2 and rear X2........

will the existing Bracket mounting bolts work or do I need to order a set of them....

I don’t suppose there is any chance of the caliper bracket modifications and widening is on the outer frame not the mounting plate right?

Dealer Visit for brackets. Calipers and pass are the same for BRY and BR6. I am US so I won’t worry about the Europe BR1.

After that then the rotors and pads, bleed system after installing new calipers.

beyond that just remember when I order future pads and rotors remember ordering the 350mm front.



Rears are the same diameter and fit on the hub the same as the SD (non vented) the difference is going to be a lot thicker due to thevents in the center.

I have the 20” Pirelli’s so I am well above the 18” minimum wheel clearance to allow new rotors to fit on.

Aside from the modified bracket and thicker rotors technically there is nothing else.....unless a person decides to switch calipera which I plan to.

I see four vendors for my project.

1. Dealer..........bracket?
2. R1 Concepts........slotted rotors
3 Power Stop......pads
4. Centric.......they sell both SD and HD caliper kits with brackets so that could eliminate a dealer visit.

Using the above criteria I could just get the dealer brackets for now and wait a few months when allegedly Power Stop is going to offer more color selection in their powder coated calipers and black is one of them.

I could save from having to buy two sets of calipers. I could get the brackets pads and rotors for now While awaiting a black powder coating option.

has anyone tried to order the HD bracket at dealer only to get the look of death when parts clerk finds out the VIN comes back to a Standard duty vehicle.

Another option would be order the entire kit (bracket, calipeds, rotors, and pads at once.... when Calipers arrive send them out locally for Powder Coating depending on vendor they should have matching bracket.

I am glad I found this forum instead of giving up, sounds like even though dealers won’t advertise they are at least trying to assist with the brake mods and not totally relying on aftermarket vendors.
 
#27 ·
Why are you wanting to upgrade the brakes and in particular why are you thinking you might only do the rears? Whatever your reasons I would offer a couple thoughts... An upgrade might change the "feel" at different speeds but it's very unlikely to change braking capacity unless you are autocrossing and heat build up is your concern. Since these vehicles come with antilock braking it doesn't much matter how hard you push on the pedal, at the limit it is the ABS system that controls the brakes, not you. If you make a maximum effort panic stop with your current SD brakes and you feel the ABS kick in nothing will change with HD brakes. If you don't feel the ABS kick in there is a problem or you are not pushing the pedal hard enough. As to doing just the rear, since they are the same diameter as I understand it, you could do just the rears and you would not have any problems, the brakes would function exactly as they do now except that they would be better under multiple hard stops due to the vented rotors providing better cooling. I would not bother doing just the rear. That adds almost nothing unless you have some unusual situation such as regularly carrying very heavy weights in the back. You could upgrade just the front, they do 80% of the braking, so you'd have real gains there, probably a good chance for better "feel" but again, no actual increase in ultimate stopping power, that's controlled by the ABS, but at intermediate braking levels you'd be back to the chance for better "feel". Myself, if I was to upgrade I'd do both front and rear to keep things in balance as far as heat handling capacity.
 
#28 ·
The idea of just the rears is two part.

1. Get the vented rear discs even with same diameter and yes feel better for long term. I don’t two but still feel better with vented rears and at least Mopar offers a upgrade kit even if a touch pricey.

2. I was having trouble finding the front HD Calipers but in re reading the posts in this thread it finally hit me that for fronts I only need new rotors and caliper brackets to account for the wider diameter rotors.

I understand that the pedal feel maybe the same but still want to get this project.

Front: Thicker diameter (surface area)Rotor and caliper bracket.

Rear: wider Rotors and the rear caliper kit I am ordering includes the revised bracket to fit. Rotor diameter is the same as SD

am I understanding the process correctly so far? The whether it can or should be done and objections are noted.
 
#29 ·
Pedal feel should be different since the fronts have larger diameter (which means longer lever arm) and the pressure applied to the pads for any given pedal pressure is the same.. same apply pressure on the end of a longer lever arm means more braking for given pedal effort.

Rears are same diameter and same apply pressure so no braking difference will result at the rear, just better heat dissipation.

Net result is more of the braking effort is shifted to the front brakes until such time as the ABS kicks in, under full pedal both the front and rear will be controlled by ABS and SD and HD should give pretty much the same stopping distance.

There's no downside to the upgrade except perhaps slightly greater unsprung weight but it's a pretty minimal increase. And pads should last longer.
 
#30 · (Edited)
Wow; lots of opinions that are stated as facts...including mine.. A few facts, and I speak from experience as I did this upgrade a couple months ago to my 2015 Overland V6:
1. HD front rotors are ventilated and 13.8" diameter instead of 13" diameter.
2. The front calipers for the 13.8" rotors are THE VERY SAME calipers as those squeezing the 13" rotors, as are the pads.
3. Two inexpensive front-caliper brackets are needed.


All of this--two new rotors, two caliper brackets, and new premium front pads (altho I could have used the old ones)--I bought at Rock Auto for $203 delivered to me and including AZ salestax.. If you want I'll find the RA part numbers.
I didn't bother with the rears, and I opine that you'd be wasting your money if you upgraded the rears and not the fronts.

Before.
Image


After.
227594
 
#31 ·
Thanks. I had considered the rears only for the simple reason of getting the vented rears but if I am gong to do this....”Go big or go home”. Right??

Especially knowing that there is non major modifications aside from the rotors, calipers and caliper brackets only and won’t have to worry about reflashokg ECU or messing with brake lines themselves.

just watched a YT video on Stoptech Slotted rotors for a charger and according to owner/driver/narrator got 60K and still some pad and rotor life.

Especially knowing that there is non major modifications aside from the rotors, calipers and caliper brackets only and won’t have to worry about reflashokg ECU or messing with brake lines themselves. This is probably one of the easiest Brake upgrades I have seen in quite a while for any vehicle.
 
#32 ·
Thanks Jeff. You upgraded the fronts and left the rear alone I am thinking just the opposite and leave the fronts alone and upgrade the rears and yes specially to have a vented rear rotors. Good to see there are options and yes thread posters are stating views that are backed up by facts, engineering, and science.
 
#33 ·

I'm not the only one to do this and write a How To: search the site.

Like you've learned, the rear is same diameter rotor, just thicker because its ventilated. The front rotors are 20mm greater diameter, that a 10mm greater torque arm. I suspect the real advantage is to handle more heat.

To do the fronts only, you'd just need the HD Bracket/Adapter and bigger rotor, of course it would be wise to get new pads with new rotors.....