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So I'm guessing either the trailer tow group IV was available for dealer install
That has never been the case since this platform debuted in late 2010. The package itself varies by year, trim and engine for certain components.
 
The build sheet should specifically list HD cooling. If it doesn't, I doubt locating part #'s will prove any different.
 
The build sheet should specifically list HD cooling. If it doesn't, I doubt locating part #'s will prove any different.
"NMCP Heavy Duty Engine Cooling"
 
From what I gathered, Dealer Installed Options were really a kit from the manufacturer that allowed the Dealer to install an option, or the ability of the option, practically. Far from all options could be Dealer Installed, just not practical.... ....Usually in the Mopar Accessory Catalog, cause they really are more accessories than an assembly line option the dealer is installing rather than the assembly line....

The Remote Start is a good example... ....on the assembly line there are several totally different electronic modules that are installed in a remote start vehicle than a regular start vehicle.... ....but the Mopar Accessory/Dealer Installed Option is a simple kit with a 3rd party module that is installed and electronics configured to communicate with it, and a set of keys with the remote start button... ....So the remote starts are two totally different systems, but as far as the Owner is concerned, since its transparent to the owner, he got the exact same option that other vehicles had installed on the assembly line...

The TOW Group as a Dealer installed option? While the changes are a half dozen components, that a Dealer should be capable of replacing. The cost of the new components and labor rates for the Dealership, really make me think this is impractical and never offered as a kit. The load leveling shocks and 180amp alternator are expensive, and the radiators, fans and springs aren't cheap either, to replicate the changes done at the assembly line would be very expensive at a Dealership, that's my guess. Probably never offered as a kit....

The Class IV hitch on the other hand is easily done at the Dealership at a reasonable cost and is practical. And the wire harness was included on all WK2's save one model year, I think, but requires dealer electronic tools to enable its operation.

Now I'm wondering if the included harness with the tow hitch installed and enabled, is being called a "Dealer Installed TOW Package" but its tow rating is 3500lbs like the O.M. says.... ...not inconsistent with what the build sheet says.... TOW Group IV (because its a Class IV hitch) TOW Capacity 3500lbs.... ...the actually assembly line TOW group installed would say the same except TOW Capacity 6500lbs.....
 
I think there is some confusion between GVWR (The maximum weight of your Grand Cherokee) which is 6500 lbs and Towing Capability -

(Capability numbers here are for the 4X4 version, 2WD and SRT may be different - check your owner's manual)

The 3.6l Pentastar V6 towing capability is:

With the FACTORY INSTALLED Tow Package the Maximum tow rating for a 3.6L Pentastar V6 powered JGC is 6200 lbs., 620 lbs. Hitch Capacity.

Without the FACTORY INSTALLED Tow Package the maximum Tow rating for a 3.6L Pentastar V6 powered JGC is 3500 lbs., 350 lbs. Hitch Capacity.

The 5.7L Hemi V8 (and EcoDiesel) towing capability is:

With the FACTORY INSTALLED Tow Package the Maximum tow rating for a 5.7L Hemi V8 or EcoDiesel powered JGC is 7200 lbs., 720 lbs. Hitch Capacity.

Without the FACTORY INSTALLED Tow Package the maximum Tow rating for a 5.7L Hemi V8 or EcoDiesel powered JGC is 3500 lbs., 350 lbs. Hitch Capacity.

As previously stated some trims (ie; Trailhawk) include the Factory Tow package as part of the Trim Level Package

The FACTORY INSTALLED Tow Package can only be installed at the FACTORY. Owner or Dealer Installed Hitches are not certifiable to the higher limits.
 
Thanks for the clarification on the numbers....
...The FACTORY INSTALLED Tow Package can only be installed at the FACTORY. Owner or Dealer Installed Hitches are not certifiable to the higher limits.
My guess is the Certification is far more than just the strength of the TOW Hitch, after all, it's the same TOW Hitch installed the same way as at the factory, as far as the Hitch is concerned, there is no difference. But safely towing is far more than the hitch being strong enough.

The HD Brakes, Cooling, Bigger Alternator and I suspect the most important, rear suspension increased spring rate and load leveling shocks are part of the Engineering guidelines used to certify the vehicles to the higher tow ratings. That is not only engineering guidelines for the Hitch Strength, its also the engine cooling, electrical power and braking capacity to handle the higher load. And Suspension that has the correct dynamic characteristics.

There are no kits in the Mopar Accessory Catalogs that I am aware of, I just don't see it being practical to have a dealer swap all of that equipment, the cost of the parts and labor would be too expensive.

An owner could swap in that equipment, DIY and using direct replacement aftermarket, might not be that expensive. BUT, like someone mentioned in another thread, DIY is no official certification of the higher TOW Capacity, nor a process to gain it. So if you do get all the info right on the configuration and reconfigure it yourself, maybe the vehicle can safely handle the higher TOW weights, but if you get in an accident, as far as the authorities and insurance is concerned, you were towing above the tow capacity for your vehicle.
 
Here is a photo of my leaking SD radiator side-by-side with my new aftermarket direct replacement HD radiator.
They are identical except for their depth, with the HD easily twice the depth of the SD radiator.
Image
 
The TOW Group as a Dealer installed option? While the changes are a half dozen components, that a Dealer should be capable of replacing. The cost of the new components and labor rates for the Dealership, really make me think this is impractical and never offered as a kit. The load leveling shocks and 180amp alternator are expensive, and the radiators, fans and springs aren't cheap either, to replicate the changes done at the assembly line would be very expensive at a Dealership, that's my guess. Probably never offered as a kit....
The HD cooling fan is difficult to retrofit; I believe it requires a different engine-compartment wiring harness... it gets a 100A feed directly from the jump post, and uses PWM control instead of two-relay control.
 
The HD cooling fan is difficult to retrofit; I believe it requires a different engine-compartment wiring harness... it gets a 100A feed directly from the jump post, and uses PWM control instead of two-relay control.
Yep, in fact I was looking at that in a parts catalog, and remember a thread about how the fans operate. The SD Fan had 3 tabs in its connector and what appears to be a coil sensor inside the shroud to sense heat. While the HD fan had two very heavy duty tabs in its connector and no sensors.

So the change in wiring alone probably knocks it out for a Dealer Retrofit Option, but the rest of the stuff done by a Dealer, is too expensive to even consider putting together a kit for the Dealer to order and install if a customer asked for it.....

IIRC, the SD fan has variable speed low mode and then a high mode, both turned on by separate relays. Likely the motor is two stage (two motors in one) that the engine computer turns it on via the relay and it uses the sensor to vary its speed. And when the engine computer senses the engine temp going to high (the oft discussed ~224°F) it trips the high relay to power the 2nd stage (the rest of the motor) while continuing to power the first stage that the sensor probably has at its highest current, driving both stages to drive the fan at its highest speed.

My Guess, the HD fan uses PWM to control the fan through a high powered single circuit and likely a solid state relay (i.e. a HD transistor/darlington pair/mosfet). The engine computer controls the fan speed purely off the engine temperature. The fan motor looks bigger, but the fan itself doesn't look that much bigger than the SD, at least in blade chord and numbers, maybe its a bigger diameter and its not so noticeable in the photos, or it might be the same fan, just driven faster by a bigger motor....
 
The HD Brakes, Cooling, Bigger Alternator and I suspect the most important, rear suspension increased spring rate and load leveling shocks are part of the Engineering guidelines used to certify the vehicles to the higher tow ratings. That is not only engineering guidelines for the Hitch Strength, its also the engine cooling, electrical power and braking capacity to handle the higher load. And Suspension that has the correct dynamic characteristics.
I'm fairly sure the factory Trailer Tow group does NOT include HD brakes.
 
My recollection in '14 was that TrailerTowIV came with HD brakes if they weren't already there for another reason. I haven't looked since then..
 
My recollection in '14 was that TrailerTowIV came with HD brakes if they weren't already there for another reason. I haven't looked since then..
MY14+ the HD brakes were packaged with the engine. 3.0 and 5.7 got them, 3.6 did not irregardless of the tow pack.
 
What does that involve? And cost?
The How Too pages has a write up on it, if not more than one.

If you're already replacing rotors for maintenance/worn out, its roughly 15% more in cost for the larger rotors and then a couple extra parts. They use the same pads. The fronts use the same calipers, but the caliper has to moved out farther to fit the larger rotor, so you have to get the HD Bracket, which I got off RockAuto for about $23 each. The rear rotor is the same diameter rotor, but its ventilated, so its much thicker than the solid SD rear rotor. Which means you need to use the wider version of the bracket and caliper than the SD. I got Rebuilt rear HD Calipers that included the bracket, and turned in the SD's as the core, and no one knew the difference.

So if you're already replacing rotors and pads, and you bargain shop, you could upgrade from SD to HD brakes for roughly $200-$300 more than the cost of just replacing the pads and rotors. Probably only an hour extra labor and bleeding the rear brakes. All the labor involved is the same as you would be doing anyway for a rotor/pad replacement, except you need to disconnect the rear calipers from the hose and connect the new wider rebuild, which then will require you to bleed the brakes.

I always bleed my brakes to flush old fluid and replace with new everytime I change pads anyway, so for me it was like an extra 10 minutes.

But when I did the upgrade, I painted the calipers red with the Duplicolor kit, which added a lot of time to the job.
The Duplicolor kit stands up to the heat and road chemicals well, but its a soft finish and nicks real easy, plus the soft finish seams to hold a lot of dirt, so after a year they didn't look so good. Scrubbing them with a soft brush and simple green and touching them up seems to really bring back the appearance, not sure I'm up for doing that every 6 months. If I did all over again, I would have sprung for a little extra to replace all the calipers with Stop Techs Powder Coated calipers or just not paint them at all. I don't know, but I suspect the tough powder coating finish wouldn't attract as much dirt and definitely wouldn't chip or nick as easy, and probably look far better a year down the road.
 
What does that involve? And cost?
Keep in mind both use the same pads, the only difference between SD and HD that would affect performance in most cases is that the front brakes add 10mm to the torque arm of the braking. That is not very much and a performance set of pads would probably more than make up for that.

I suspect the real reason behind the HD brakes is they can absorb more heat. Fronts move the swept ring out increasing the swept area and just being bigger means more mass, the rear is the same diameter but goes to ventilated rotors, more mass and cooling.

If you were racing or towing, the greater heat capacity would probably be worth it, less likely to suffer brake fade if you get them really hot racing or towing. If you're looking to improve braking for street driving, I wouldn't be surprised if there is much of a difference at all, likely not more than a better performance set of pads would provide.
 
I'm fairly sure the factory Trailer Tow group does NOT include HD brakes.
MY14+ the HD brakes were packaged with the engine. 3.0 and 5.7 got them, 3.6 did not irregardless of the tow pack.
Yea, I bet you're right.

My point was, the Tow Rating and Tow Package is more than a Hitch strong enough to carry the load. Its a rating that the vehicle can safely handle a load of such and such weight and the Tow "Package" upgrades things for the vehicle to safely handle that load. I threw brakes into the list, but you're right, in this case for most years, if not all, the WK2 Tow Package didn't include an upgrade in brakes.

I don't think anyone has come up with any ryhme or reason why some WK2's got HD brakes and others came with SD Brakes before 2014. 2014 and on, the V8 and Diesel got them and the V6 got the SD brakes. And the TOW Package didn't upgrade brakes at all, well at least 2014 and on. Maybe the TOW Package did come with HD before 2014, but IIRC in another thread there were people with pre-2014 WK2's with TOW Packages saying they have SD brakes also.

HD Brakes can't fit inside 17" rims, that is one reason why a pre-2014 might come with SD brakes.
But, plenty of 18" and 20" rim equipped pre-2014 came with SD brakes...

I have a 2011 HEMI w/ QTII, 70th Anniversary Edition, with Trail Rated Badging on both sides (but no trail rated equipment, but that another discussion) 20" rims OEM and it came with SD Brakes.
 
I'm fairly sure the factory Trailer Tow group does NOT include HD brakes.
This is correct. HD Brakes are based on what engine the vehicle has.
 
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