I'm also interested in some irl review of them. The price is very attractive. In my country 700 USD is way cheaper then having someone to open the OEM headlights and replace the projectors, etc.

 

A friend of mine bought the Chinese version ~2 years back for about $400.00 . I figured they would be fogged over and not working within 6 months... . I see him every week, they still look and work like new.
They are closer to $600.00 now but if I were in the market, I would buy them without hesitation.

 

I've had the cheap Chinese versions that I got off Amazon for $580. I've had them for about a year now with no issues. I'm thinking of getting the Gen 1's or these as my current set doesn't have high beams and its starting to get annoying not having them.

 

Why do they not have high beams?

 

What do these do that the original headlights don't do? The only thing I can see if to have the LED DRL in amber instead of white, but I prefer the white anyway.

 

Mine is a 2014 so they look very different. I also have an HID kit in mine. It's relatively bright but these are claiming to be brighter than stock halogen and even stock HIDs

 

I can speak to the other gen they make for the WK2 (the one with x3 LED in a row). these lights sold by morimoto are manufactured by a Chinese company called Coplus. Morimoto is a distributor, and has some sort of sales agreement that enables them to rebrand the name for stateside sales. Aside from a box that says morimoto on it, you get a longer warranty period and US based customer service (which I have used and they do email promptly, and pick up the phone as well). I have purchased from both companies — first went with morimoto for my trackhawk, then coplus for my summit. The first pair has been on for 1.5 years without issue. And survived an install/re-install (I moved them off my summit to the trackhawk after purchasing the TH). Both sets come with the adaptors to go from halogen to LED, if needed. Even going from the oem HID to the LEDs (adaptors not needed), it is night and day difference the quality of light. Hence why I got the second set, but decided to go for the bargain price offered by coplus. That pair, I got off eBay from a 3rd party retailer which saved me several hundred. But yes, they’re identical.

 

Do yours have both high and low beams?

 

Yes.

 

$1800 was too expensive, $700 I'm seriously thinking about it

 

Also, was digging through my stuff and found this. There is an adaptor (right part of page, black/yellow) for high beam function apparently. Maybe absence explains lack there of on done owners applications?

Not relevant for those in my boat ie going from hid to led.

 

so you actually have to tap the fuse box to get DRL??? and what is the connector with the black/white wire for? right next to the main connector. It doesn't seem to be labeled in the diagram

 

I believe side marker is the yellow side marker.. yes you have to tap into the fuse box. It’s no big deal. morimoto has. pdf with more detailed instructions, like a normal installation guide.

 

But wouldn't the factory connector (assuming HID equipped vehicle) already have the wire for it? Why is a separate wire tapping the fuse box needed? That part I don't understand and honestly am not very willing to do after spending $1800 for a set of lights.

Regardless, thank you for providing the instruction guide.

 

Or use Alpha OBD (or a dealer) to make the fog lights the drl's. That option is in the cars computer

 

Installed them over the weekend. Huge upgrade over the halogens. Found on CSP racing for under 600 shipped.

 

Can you share the link please? couldn't find the Morimoto on CSP's website

 

I got a pair from Headlight Revolution last week to replace the factory halogens. They worked great the first day. The second day, they would blink (not strobe) on and off a few times immediately after starting the Jeep and then the low beams would not work. This happened consistently throughout the day.

Headlight Revolution customer service was great. They didn't have much information on troubleshooting since these are so new so they were RMA'd and they are sending out a new pair.

 

wondering if that has something to do with bulb testing. Since the LEDs have lower draw, the vehicle may perceive that as bulb burnt out. The flickering is the onboard computer sending power to it to test if the bulb is good.

So this could be something solved by changing settings. I believe HID cars don't do these tests.

 

Any output shot of these?

 

So was the first set of headlights defective? or was it just the way the car is set causing the lights to flicker?

 

My bet is the halogen lights use the old "High-beams at half-voltage for DRL" trick. Since HIDs & LEDs don't have separate high-beam bulbs (single "bulb" using bi-xenon flappers), that half-voltage thing messed them up. Many people discover the same thing when they slap el-cheapo HID/LED bulbs into other vehicles and discover the half-voltage thing and get flickering or non-functional.

In newer models, it's not actually half-voltage, but uses pulse wave modulation (PWM) that "flashes" the bulb at a rate that makes them appear dimmer. That too messes up HID/LED setups.

In Canada, there is no setting for DRL in uConnect, so you have to use AlfaOBD or similar to deprogram them in the BCM.

 

In case anyone is interested the XB Gen II is on sale now for $560 from Morimoto and Headlight Revolution. I am thinking about grabbing a set.

 

Damn. Missed the sale. The only question I have about these, is do they retain the factory auto-leveling of the OEM HID headlights? That's the sticking point for me. I have already upgraded my OEM D3S ballasts and bulbs to D1S for better light output, but it's still a crappy projector with a dimpled lens. I tow a lot with mine, so having the auto-leveling headlights is something I really want to keep.

 

The only question I have about these, is do they retain the factory auto-leveling of the OEM HID headlights?

They do not. No after-market headlight replacement does, to my knowledge.

So yeah, towing might be a problem. On my setup it was less of a concern because I had the air suspension, so when I was towing that auto-leveling mitigated the aiming problem.
I recently replaced the air suspension with the Dobinson kit (from Rocky Road), but I haven't done enough towing to determine how much of a problem it's going to be. The Dobinson kit is supposedly stiff enough to minimize the front-end lift, but I can't say for sure yet. Luckily, the vast majority of my towing is in the daytime.

 

Yeah, I have an overland with air suspension, but, still... I want it.

 

Slightly off topic but does anyone have experience with eBay aftermarket OEM style headlights? Not the LED ones but regular reflector and projector lens that come on the Laredo or TrailHawk. They usually sell the pair for under $200. I had an idea about buying a set of those to cut open to install the clear corner reflector. Its cheap enough to experiment on and if I can get the look I want with the original style I'd pass on the Morimotos.

 

My Trailhawk came with the xenon HID headlights with the LED DRLs. They do make aftermarket versions of those headlights that seem pretty decent, but aren't super expensive.

 

I use these Bi-LED headlights VLAND Official and I'm very satisfied from quality and easy installation.

They have also everything needed for the installation including brackets for 2014-2016 JGC halogen headlights, cables for connection to halogen headlights connectors and of course connectors for HID headlights. Here how they look at the wall - very bright and perfect light during the night driving:

 

Are these the same thing as the Morimoto? I see a bunch of the Vland now on ebay for a much more attractive price. How's the brightness at night? And what did use have before?

 

One thing i was thinking about. With the new version and even the older 3 lens version. Are the LED built into the headlamps so the bulbs aren't replaceable?

 

from what other users have reported, the LEDs are not replaceable on either of them. It's slightly concerning, but not sure there's a good way around that.

I believe all of the housings are built around LED projector assemblies that are built/sold as a whole unit. There's a potential to replace the whole assembly, but it may not come out the back. If you need to remove the front lens, then it may not be worth the effort.

Here's a video of an internal "assembly." It's the functional part from another style of WK2 LED projector housings I was talking to the manufacturer about. Again, I don't know if this is what VLAND or Morimoto uses, it's just an example of one.