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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Correct..these are nothing like the old park brake assemblies.
Well, they are in concept like the old Drum in Hat parking brakes, their "execution" is nothing like old parking brake assemblies, with the flaws that cause them to fail, especially the cables and then their layout that makes them 10 times harder to replace and the layout of the springs and the openings on the shoes make it impossible to stretch the springs and connect them, even with the best drum brake tools.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Pics are not showing up for either of you two.
Something is wrong with the Board software, if they changed the rule on photos, then the Mods need to update the guidance on them.
Copy and Paste photos are not showing up for me, even my own copy and paste photos.
My photos on this thread are all uploaded, they show for me, but what I did was go back and delete them and re-uploaded resized photos that are half the size and 1/4 the file size.
See if those work for you.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Today I tackled the Passenger side.... ...what a mess...
I almost did not order new shoes, figured they don't really wear since I don't use the parking brake while moving.... ....good thing I did...
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If you can't tell, the shoe material has completely left the shoe, it came out in chunks and bits as I pulled the rotor...
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The lever activator is seized, all the hardware is a mess, the chunks are what were left of the shoes friction material..
Surprisingly, the drum surface in the rotor is fine....

Got it all together just before sunset....
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And where I'm stuck at the moment, couldn't get these two ends together, to much tension with so little to grip and pull them together, any suggestion on how get the cable ends connected?
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I thought I saw there is a special tool for doing exactly this.... ....anyone know?
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
And of course the WK2 couldn't give up and not give me more nightmares....
Trying to torch/burn the cable collar out of the hub, it caught fire and it spread to the CV Axle Boot....
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I'm not spending more time working on crap, there is no split boot available, not sure if I would use it if it were, I can get a NAPA new driveshaft for $154 tomorrow, I'm just going that route and not tempt fate with doing a CV boot replacement, which I would have to pull the CV shaft anyway to do so....
 
Of course the rain was brought be a cold front, so getting back out there today with daylight I was able to finish up one side and start work on the other side. Came in to warm-up my hands.
Good thing I got all new hardware, the original was trashed, the lever activator was seized again. It was worth the extra money to stave ever having to do this job again.
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[EDIT] I can see my own photos, post if you cannot see them. The whole week I have been unable to see anyone else's photos they posted.
Your photos are the first I've seen here in some time now.
 
I uploaded the photos, didn't copy and paste them, and I reduced the size of the photos, which also reduces the file size. That seems to work.
I've always uploaded, but it's been some time since I've done it. However, if you're correct, that should limit the areas of code they need to check to either remedy it or to put out a warning that copy and paste shouldn't be used.
 
As much of a pain as this job is, it’s a good thing you took it apart because those chunks of the old brake shoes could actually jam up the rear brake. I recall reading about this happening on ZJs and other Jeeps that share the same design. It seemed IIRC that the shoes seem to last about 10 years after that they are on borrowed time. I think the glue fails or rust starts on the metal shoe under the lining and pushes off the friction material.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Guys, I'm stuck on the near final step, no one has any advice on this?
I cannot get these two ends together to connect the cables.....
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I pulling the cables to bring them together obviously pulls the shoes out against the springs and I can't for the life of me get these two together...

I tried to put more slack in the cables by forcing the shoes apart and putting a screwdriver into the works to hold them apart, doesn't provide nearly enough slack....

Anyone have done this?

If there is not a special tool that grip these two ends and pull them both together, the only other thing I can think of is too tear down the shoes again, connect the cables first and redo the shoes at each wheel.... ....I'll gladly buy a special tool to avoid that...
 

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You need to slack the cable up front at the parking brake pedal. It's a ratchet assembly that automatically takes up slack ... you can unwind it by rotating it in the opposite direction and pin it in the unwound position with a cotter pin.
Be careful. It's an easy way to lose a finger or two
 
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