I found some new 9006 headlight sockets at AutoZone for $12 and they are for high temperature bulb application. This should work out perfect cause I have 80W 7000K Nokya headlights.

While I'm in there I will be changing out the highbeams.

 

i THINK you should find what caused the wires to burn and remove it (HINT:80W 7000K Nokya headlights)

i am selling a complete headlight harness (big plug to 4 lights for 10 bux) if you are interested. see For Sale

 

I agree, those high wattage bulbs 80-100w are not good for the stock wiring harness, you can use them in aftermarket lights with a larger gauge power wire but the oem headlight wires are too thin to support that kind of wattage.

 

Hint: take out your cheap ebay china aftermarket lights and get a good set. Problem solved.

 

ok so I have a similar problem...I had my brother find me a set of hid kits for my wk...he found them ordered them come to find out they were cheap ones from china...my driver side low beam headlight went out....all fuses are fine and we've run power tests and the small harness that connects from the bulb to the vehicles main harness is good...but the wire on the main wiring harness that should be giving power isnt giving power....does anyone know how far this harness goes back? Ive been trying to find a wiring diagram for it but have come up short...if anyone knows anything feel free to e-mail at aaron.newton@hotmail.com I just signed up for jeepgarage today so I dont know if it will inform me is someone replys to this post or not....

 

Having the same problem anyone find a fix?

 

you need a 9006 relay harness

 

Im running 100w and 80w street glows in everything and haven't had any problems. Except for the "foil" to reflect in the melting a bit...

You may look in to these to help... http://store.newlevelmotorsports.com/sthewihaupfo6.html

 

Yeah well changed my mind on the hids but after the failed install my stock lights don't work correctly, low beam on drivers side is dim and cuts out from time to time. Voltage to dr and pass side read the same, and grouns are good. I'm stumped!!!

 

Measure the resistance on the wire....

 

One of the "wizard ideas" that came along with computer aid design stations and whiz kids to run them was absolute minification of all components and wiring (to save weight and cost of course ;-) ). Unfortunately that leads to problems when "unapproved" situations arrive. In this case, the wiring is sized JUST EXACTLY ENOUGH to handle the OEM wattage headlamps. Sticking on a load heavier than that (i.e., 80W or 100W) is just asking for trouble.

So, you stuck in high-wattage lights / lighting systems and had problems. Intermittents? Dimming? Not working at all?

(1) You probably damaged the modules that drive the headlights as they are designed to deliver only the proper amount of current and the output transistors or whatever they're using will be rated thusly. A heavier load will cause them to overheat and/or burn out. You CANNOT get around using the factory modules because of the way vehicles are designed now. Don't like it? Buy 1950's Chevy's. Yes, the designer could have anticipated this misuse and used heavier duty components or designed in a thermal protection circuit ... but the bean counters would have just over-ridden this in the name of cost-savings; so they didn't.

(2) As long as the module hung in there delivering more current (aka, power) that it was designed to, the minimum-sized gauge wire was overheating (i.e., the blackening and charring some note). It is quite possible that in some places some of the wire has actually melted inside the insulation (hidden from you) thus the dimming and intermittency (as vehicle vibration causes individual strands in damaged sections to brush by each other and make intermittent contact). A resistance check is likely to be of little use except where the wire is completely burned out. Harness replacement is the only reliable way out of this mess.

Still hell-bent on sticking in big wattage lighting? Make sure the manufacturer is using an auxiliary relay-powered design; or is willing to pay for any damages to your Jeep (including modules and harness replacements) over the next 12 months / 12K miles. Yeah. Good luck with that. ;-)