The shocks used beside QL have different design (particularly in the mounting setup) from "regular" shocks...you have to use the OEM or equivalent.

 

When did it start leaking? Did you check with your dealer to see if this shock might be covered under warranty?

 

Had the same issue ... had to buy oem junk. Mine started to leak at 40k, just outside of warranty.

 

Re: Rear Shocks when you have Quadra-Lift®?

Unity has a shock that it says is for both air suspension and non-air suspension, they will not work with the Nivomat load leveling system. Mopar's[#68069675AD] are also for both Air Suspension or not. All the other aftermarket shocks for the 14' JGC say they will only work with the non-air and non-load leveling suspension. I assume since those manufacturers do not make the front air struts the way Unity does[#18-117701-left, #18-117702-right] , they simply have not tested those with the air suspension. It is also possible the mount is more universal (maybe additional hardware included) with the Mopar(OEM)[#68069675AD] and the Unity[#256500]. The Unity shocks[#256500] (which show a part cross reference to Monroe [#911304]) apparently are no longer made. Everyone shows out of stock including the manufacturer. The manufacturer does directly say their's works with both the air and non-air, but not the Nivomat. (You'd think they would have mentioned they're not available anymore.)
So, as far as anyone I can find to ask, those of us with the Quadra-Lift® air suspension are stuck with Mopar's Part # 68069675AD. If anyone has used anything else for the rear shocks and has Quadra-Lift®, please post your findings.:thumbsup:

P.S. BTW, I believe there was a recall on some early 14' JGCs for shocks leaking.

Also, on the front air struts, the lowest price per OEM struct [#68231882AC,68231883AC] I have seen online is around $1,000 per strut. The lowest price I have seen for the Unity [#18-117701-left, #18-117702-right] is $450 per strut. My dealer's parts department said they never, ever replaced a front strut on a JGC with Quadra-Lift®. I cannot find any information on the expected lifespan of the Front air struts. I can only assume they are designed to last a long time since they have never replaced one at my service center. My dealer charges $1,600 per Quadra-Lift® Strut.

One more thing: Suncore Industries also makes the Front Quadra-Lift® Struts [PART #: 177C-18-F-PAIR] ($900-pair). Also Suncore says their product and the OEM should last 70-90k miles. Suncore also remanufactures the OEM at only $739 a pair. They have none right now though.:thumbsup:

If my post wasn't long enough: Milous posted this in October 2012:

68069678AA - (Not in parts system)
68069846AF - SDA, without SES (Normal Duty) - 58,- U$ (2011-2013 Durango)
68069675AD - SDA, SER without SES (Normal Duty) - 79,- U$ (2012-2013 WK)
68069671AC - SDA, without SER/SES (Normal Duty) - 87,- U$ (2011-2013 WK)
68069843AF - SDA, with SES (Normal Duty + SLS) - 430,- U$ (2011-2013 Durango)
68084522AC - SDE, without SER and/or SES (Sport) - 90,- U$ (2012-2013 WK)
68084523AC - SDE, SER (Sport) - 92,- U$ (2012-2013 WK)
68087613AF - SDE, with SES (Sport + SLS) - 430,- U$ (2011-2013 Durango)
68084521AA - SES, SDE (Sport + SLS) - 472,- U$ (2011 WK)
68069677AC - SDM, without SER and/or SES (Export) - 85,- U$ (2011-2013 WK)
68069676AD - SDM, SER without SES (Export) - 80,- U$ (2012-2013 WK)
68069680AB - SDA, SES or SDM (Export + SLS) - 494,- U$ (2011-2013 WK)
68039560AA - (Not in parts system)


68069680AC - (national backorder)
68069680AD - (in system as of 9/25/12, 0 availability)

Another place indicates 68039560AA may be on early Durangos and exports (Diesels).

Sales Codes:
SDA - Normal Duty Suspension
SDE - Sport Suspension
SDM - Export Tuned Suspension
SER - Quadra-Lift Air Suspension
SES - Rear Load Level Suspension
SDX - High Performance Suspension (SRT only)

 

Re: Rear Shocks when you have Quadra-Lift®?

If my post wasn't long enough: Milous posted this in October 2012:

68069678AA - (Not in parts system)
68069846AF - SDA, without SES (Normal Duty) - 58,- U$ (2011-2013 Durango)
68069675AD - SDA, SER without SES (Normal Duty) - 79,- U$ (2012-2013 WK)
68069671AC - SDA, without SER/SES (Normal Duty) - 87,- U$ (2011-2013 WK)
68069843AF - SDA, with SES (Normal Duty + SLS) - 430,- U$ (2011-2013 Durango)
68084522AC - SDE, without SER and/or SES (Sport) - 90,- U$ (2012-2013 WK)
68084523AC - SDE, SER (Sport) - 92,- U$ (2012-2013 WK)
68087613AF - SDE, with SES (Sport + SLS) - 430,- U$ (2011-2013 Durango)
68084521AA - SES, SDE (Sport + SLS) - 472,- U$ (2011 WK)
68069677AC - SDM, without SER and/or SES (Export) - 85,- U$ (2011-2013 WK)
68069676AD - SDM, SER without SES (Export) - 80,- U$ (2012-2013 WK)
68069680AB - SDA, SES or SDM (Export + SLS) - 494,- U$ (2011-2013 WK)
68039560AA - (Not in parts system)


68069680AC - (national backorder)
68069680AD - (in system as of 9/25/12, 0 availability)

Another place indicates 68039560AA may be on early Durangos and exports (Diesels).

Sales Codes:
SDA - Normal Duty Suspension
SDE - Sport Suspension
SDM - Export Tuned Suspension
SER - Quadra-Lift Air Suspension
SES - Rear Load Level Suspension
SDX - High Performance Suspension (SRT only)

I'm going to replace both shocks very soon, like in a few day's, i've just have to order the correct parts.

On my WK2 2013 3.0 V6 CRD with QL i have 68080211AC shocks (not listed here).

Edit: I just ordered 2 BILSTEIN - B6 4600 shocks (delivery on thursday). And i'm going to replace them on friday. I hope they will be a perfect fit like suggested in this thread Fingers crossed

 

Did anybody try:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4645923&cc=3298406&jsn=394

Monroe PART NUMBER: 911304 . It xref against 68069675AD.

Wonder will it work? My second set of Mopar shocks is going bad slowly I honestly don't feel like replacing them with the same crap.

 

Did you ever get an answer to this? I need to order shocks for QL vehicle as well.

 

I think, meaning I could be wrong, the front strut is physically different between conventional and QL suspension. Mounting the air bag over the strut is different than mounting a coil spring over the strut, thus they can't be interchanged. There also is likely differences in damping rates and other things.

The rear shocks are physically the same in mounting, but likely have different damping rates and other things to deal with the QL. Nivoromat is a whole other facet, its a shock that pumps up to normal ride height if you put more weight on the rear that would cause the rear to sag.

If I'm correct on that, you could bolt up a conventional shock to the rear of a QL suspension. The problem is, the characteristics of the shock wouldn't match the QL and it could perform very poorly and even be unsafe. The fact the manufacturer's don't list their shocks for both is evidence enough they don't consider it safe to use their shock with QL.

Monroe offers an aftermarket shock listed for both suspensions? Maybe it would work and be safe. But if you're looking for a longer lasting shock, well in my experience, the last place you should be looking for a longer lasting shock is Monroe and Gabriel. Every Monroe and Gabriel shock/strut I've used never lasted as long as the OEM shock/strut. Perhaps things are different today and they've improved their longevity, but considering how much less they cost than other shock/struts, I have my doubts.

 

My experience generally with factory shocks is that they are shot by about 30K. I've replaced many with Monroe Reflex and have never worn them out. On my Explorer I had about 70K on the Monroes when I sold it and they were still fine. I also had some edlebrocks on the explorer before the Monroes and will never buy that brand again, they were shot in about 15K miles. OEM struts, in my experiance, seem to last a good long time. My 2000 Malibu had the original struts on it when I sold it at 220K miles and they seemed fine still.

 

Call me the guinea pig. I just ordered a set of Bilstein 4600 rear shocks for my '14 Overland with QL.

I've always loved Bilstein shocks on my BMW cars, firm, precise, and responsive.

My Overland handling, the rear feels like it just wallows around. Taking off from a red light, the slightest gas pedal input causes the back end to squat. On roads, the back end feels spongy, not stable. Going into curves, the Jeep just wants to roll.

I know many have adopted the Helwig or SRT rear bar to help, but I am convinced the shocks are the root cause.

If I have time this coming weekend I will explore if the 4600s work. My primary concern is total shaft length, will shaft of the 4600 extend the needed range to meet OR2 height? TBD.

 

Keep us posted.

On the flip side I'd be concerned that they would allow too much travel and over-extend the bag.

Up until I got my new floor jack I couldn't jack up a Limited with tow from the center beam but I could with my Overland. Seems like the Nivomat shocks allow for more down travel. Either way I'm curious to see if they fit and if the ride is improved. It would cancel out the Maxcare on the shocks but may be worth the benefit.

 

I replaced my rear shocks at around the time generally recommended for rear shocks. I never replaced the front struts. They are only for the JGC-QL. There is an after market manufacturer of these, they also have a remanufactured original. The FCA price is way too high I would have gone with the after market ones, had I kept my JGC for much longer. I can't remember the company right now that makes the after market QL JGC struts. I think there is only one company that does it. There is no solution other than buying the QL front struts. The Rear shocks are the same for the QL and standard. There is a third setup that has to do with the "Load levelling Suspension", this is not the same as Quadra-Lift and should not be confused with it. The "Load levelling Suspension" rear shocks are different from both the QL and standard rear shocks which are the same. The QL Rear shock job is a little more time consuming but the same Mopar parts are used as the standard.


EDIT: Even though Mopar has one part for both the QL and standard, I have been told by other Shocks manufacturers that their shocks are only for the Non-QL and NON-load leveling. But, if I was having continuous problems with the Mopar, I would attempt to use standard shocks with the QL suspension. It is possible, you may need some fitment parts from the old ones. With the Struts, though, you are totally stuck. You have to go with struts specifically for the QL suspension.

EDIT: I just noticed my previous post. Lots of good info there...

BTW, I have moved to the 2019 Pacifica Hybrid Limited, S-Appearance. 32 Miles on Electricity only.

 

I'm hopeful the 4600s will be a straight plug-n-play. They should arrive today or tomorrow.

I plan to measure rear ride height at standard and OR2 with my stock shocks. Then repeat measurements after install.

On the garage floor I also plan to attempt to measure shock shaft length for both stock and 4600. I want to ensure the 4600 has enough travel to allow OR2 height.

It is going to be a busy weekend, my wife's bday, family holiday get togethers, etc. Hope I will find time to knock out this project. Will keep you posted.

 

Can't wait to hear how the aftermarket rear QL replacements work. I had to replace mine with less than 20k miles. Couldn't find anything but OEM at the time. Driver rear was leaking, so MaxCare covered it, but I had to pay out of pocket for the Pass. rear because it hadn't failed. Thought it wasn't a good idea to replace just one side.

 

My 2014 Limited is at 51K miles and both rear shocks need to be replaced (the dealer has ordered the parts). Mine are covered by the extended warranty so that is now paid for. I hope that the new shocks last longer.

A Goodyear shop quoted me $1,520 to replace both shocks. I believe they would be Monroe ($600 part cost for each shock).

 

Update - The Bilstein 4600s work great. Part number 24-225427.

The mounting points are identical. The OE Jeep upper shock mount fits perfectly on the Bilstein Shock. I do recommend a pass-through socket set for the upper shock mount bolt. I made a trip to Lowes -

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-XTREME-ACCESS-22-Piece-Drive-Pass-Through-Socket/999956372

The upper shock nut is 18mm.

The only difference between the OE shock and the Bilstein, the Bilstein 4600 shaft at full extension is 3/4" longer measured from base to start of threads. This means the Bilstein will allow 3/4" more travel at full droop. After inspection, this did not pose any concern with the rear air spring. Seems the Air Spring even at OR2 has greater range.

I've done about 50 miles since the install, the rear feels more controlled and better dampened. Acceleration squat is slightly reduced and brake nose dives is slightly improved. Ride height was unchanged, I measured and checked at standard and OR2, no change. Overall I am pleased knowing I have a quality shock back there now, I am a fan boy of Bilstein from my years of tracking BMWs.

 

If its 3/4" longer it should be no problem when the suspension is jacked up. But it would seem to me that there's a good chance it will bottom out internally when the vehicle is at normal ride height and you hit a big bump and fully compress the suspension.

 

Good information to have. Thanks for checking this out. Considering they are priced less than the MaxCare deductible I'd be willing to swap out myself.

 

Wow, great to know that there is an alternative in the back. I too love Bilstein products, all 4 corners of my race car are custom valved Bilstein shocks.... Bilstein will rebuild and revalve any of their products for a very reasonable price, last time I sent mine to them it was $95 per shock/strut. But I'd be concerned that Bilsteins in the rear won't match the compression/rebound rates of the OE fronts.

Also, FWIW both my '14 Summit ecodiesel and my '15 Overland HA hemi have QL. When the dealer replaced rears on both vehicles under warranty (twice on the '14 in less than 53,000 miles) the tech told me the rear shock part number is the same for all rear suspensions.

 

How did you get the dealer to replace under warranty?

 

My dealer tech diagnosed the problem as blown shocks and they just replaced under warranty. I think the key is that they were leaking fluid which would indicate a part failure, not just a worn out shock.

On my 2014, the first pair were replaced under the original warranty, the second time under Mopar Maxcare warranty.

 

Sorry for my delay in providing further comment, traveling over the holidays and had account trouble on this site.

Yes the shaft is 3/4 inch longer. However the body of the shock is identical size of the stock shock. I had posted pics on the Jeep WK2 Facebook site. The pics are on my iphone, so not as easy to upload on this site from my desktop here at work.

So far, I am enjoying the improved feel from the rear, less sway and wobble compared to before. More controlled. I think my next mod will be a larger rear sway bar, but I am pleased I upgraded the tired rear shocks.

For those interested, I ordered these Bilsteins from Amazon, they were ~$72 each.

 

Interesting. The important issue is compressed length of the shock. If it's compressed length is longer then the OEM it *could* be a problem.. or it might not be.

 

As of 12/21, I'm running the standard Bilstein's 4600s on my 2014 QL Overland. No issue, only improvement.

Guessing the issues with documentation and online fitment guides is more to do with lawyers and mutual agreement not to play in each other's sandbox. Who knows.

 

Great thread here, thanks for the all the info. I just bought a 2012 Overland Summit, with QL, and while I'm taking the Jeep back to dealership (Chevy dealership, yikes) to hopefully have them replace shocks no cost to me (I just bought it 3 days ago from them), I am wanting to have backup plans in place, because this Jeep is dangerously squirly in the rear end over certain bumps or expansion gaps in a curve, etc. These were not found during my test drive, perhaps the smooth roads, or lack of expansion gaps, otherwise I wouldn't have bought it, or would've made sure the shocks getting replaced got on the "we owe".

Side question though, is it possible to have the "load leveling' shocks WITH Quadra-lift? Or, does the Quadra-Lift also handle the load leveling with it's own system? Just trying to figure out if it's possible I could have the load-leveling shocks on my Jeep.

 

Side question though, is it possible to have the "load leveling' shocks WITH Quadra-lift? Or, does the Quadra-Lift also handle the load leveling with it's own system? Just trying to figure out if it's possible I could have the load-leveling shocks on my Jeep.

There's two load-leveling systems available in the WK2:

1. The 4 corner air suspension known as Quadralift that will level all 4 corners and also lift and lower the entire vehicle. You'll have two buttons for it next to the terrain select knob.

2. Rear load-leveling on tow package equipped vehicles without Quadralift. These use self contained Nivomat rear shocks and weaker rear steel springs to level the rear of the vehicle when carrying extra weight.

I believe this is where some of the ambiguity comes from when shock compatibility comes up. Even the shock makers don't know some times.

 

Thanks, that answers it. I DO have Quadra-lift for sure, so that means I cannot and do not have the load-leveling shocks. Good to know. My wife's van is the same year Town and Country, and DID have those load-leveling shocks, but when I saw the price of them, I went with monroe load-helper shock/spring combo instead, haha.

 

I just switched to the Bilsteins as well, and the ride improvement is amazing. However, I'm worried about something and wanted yall's opinions. I'm pretty sure the same went for the stock shock too, but wondering if something should be done for us hardcore offroaders.

So, when changing the shocks, we know that lifting the rear makes the wheel and tire drop to it's lowest possible droop, and from what I can see, the stock shock is the limiting factor in droop. Well, when I unbolt the shock, the lower control arm will drop even further and at that point I believe the airbag is what limited the droop. If I was to unbolt the airbag, I'm not sure how much further it'd go before metal on metal stops the droop.

So, from what is looks like, the shock is the first and only stop to how low the rear tire can droop when I get articulated to a point where a rear tire gets airborne, because we know these jeeps don't have much articulation, which is fine and all. How much damage is this causing to the internals of the shock? In built offroad applications, you typically see those limiting straps near the shocks which keeps the suspension from sagging so much to put pressure on the shocks or popping coil springs out. Would it be wise to do the same for our Jeeps to save the shocks, or are they able to handle it, so long as I'm not baja driving where the shocks are quickly forced to full extension and contraction?

Anyways, I'm just shooting for some technical opinions. My offroading will only be the slow technical rock-crawling type and minor mudding, never any fast speed humps or going airborne situations.

 

You description is very clear. I'm hoping you find someone else that knows as least much as you to help you. You actually sound like the best authority on this right now.

 

Hi dodgeman,

I don't refute your findings. Your claim is that since the shaft length of the Bilstein is 3/4" longer than the OE shock, that in turn there could be 3/4" of additional droop at extreme suspension articulation. On paper I agree with you.

However in the real world, I'm not sure that 3/4" difference really matters. What percentage of time are you exposing the Jeep to such maximum droop? In most cases the opposite wheel will be applying counter force through the sway bar this limiting the droop in the real world. Even if, I noticed when doing my Bilstein install that the rear airbags stayed securely in place with tension even with over 1.5" of excess droop.

So to summarize, I don't dispute your observation, but to me the benefit of using a quality monotube Bilstein shock far outweigh the negligible risk of an additional 3/4" droop.

So far, I am still delighted with the 4600s on my '14 Overland. I only wish I could firm up the front axle too while keeping the air suspension.

 

Good point. I totally wasn't even thinking about the rear sway bar taking up some of the slack during the full droop on opposite wheel. That would certainly take some of the pressure off of the shock that is being fully extended. I also wish we had a way to firm up the front to match the rear, like you said.

 

This is great info! Thx!

My both rear shocks are gone (lot's of oil pouring out). I'm considering replacing my 2 rear shocks with BILSTEIN - B6 4600 shocks. However, i read that you guy's are using the 4600s. I only can find the 4600 version (no idea what the difference is). Both have the same part number (24-225427).