Normally it should show you the reason remote start was cancelled (Door Open, Hood Open, Fuel Low). Are you not getting that?

 

I didn't see any. The first time it happened this morning I remote started it, then opened the hatchback. Then at my next stop, I remote started it and it quit again without me doing anything. I've remote started it in the past, then opened the hatchback without any issues.

 

Listed below are some of the conditions that will cause the remote start to abort or not attempt to even start. They are all listed in your owner's manual.

All of the following conditions must be met before the engine will remote start:
• Gear Selector in PARK
• Doors closed
• Hood closed
• Liftgate closed
• Hazard switch off
• Brake switch inactive (brake pedal not pushed)
• Battery at an acceptable charge level
• PANIC button not pushed
• System not disabled from previous remote start event
• Vehicle alarm system indicator flashing
• Ignition in STOP/OFF position
• Fuel level meets minimum requirement

Remote Start Abort Message
The following messages will display in the instrument cluster display if the vehicle fails to remote start or exits remote start prematurely:
• Remote Start Cancelled — Door Open
• Remote Start Cancelled — Hood Open
• Remote Start Cancelled — Fuel Low
• Remote Start Aborted Timer Expired
• Remote Start Aborted Liftgate Open
• Remote Start Disabled — Start Vehicle To Reset

 

Thanks. If it happens again I will pay closer attention to the dash readout. I believe it said, "Start Vehicle To Reset". But it did it again on the next attempt a few minutes later.

 

It's very common for that to happen when the battery is on it's last legs. My 2014 did it several times. When it first started doing it the vehicle seemed otherwise fine. But a week later I could tell during a normal start that the engine was cranking over more slowly than normal. After replacing the battery, I have not had the remote start problem again. I think what happens is that the system can't tell the battery is weak until it's cranked the starter, then the voltage drops, my guess is the cutoff is around 9 volts. The system sees the 9 volts and says "no remote start" even though it's already finished starting. I'd call it a mistake in programming logic.. if it's already started why would you shut it down? Let it run and recharge the battery!!! But nobody asked me...

 

My battery is barely 6 months old. And it's on a battery maintainer when the vehicle sits. It maintains it at a full, 100% charge. If it spun the starter any faster, it would throw a winding.

 

Is it possible the little wire connection to the battery was left off? As I recall there is the big wire to the battery post and another small one that is used to sense voltage. Did the problem start when you got the new battery?

 

I've had this issue for quite some time. I replaced the battery about a month ago and nothing has changed. I suspect it may have something to do with the fuel pump. If I try to start cold from the "Off" position, it struggles to start and sometimes times out after trying to roll over for 10 seconds. If I start from "Run" after hearing the fuel cycle in, it starts right up.

 

Mine fires right up. Cold or hot. Remotely or with the button on the dash. It is just all of a sudden starting, then shutting down after running for just a few seconds.

 

I had no problems with it firing up until the auto start began having issues. Short there after, perhaps around the same time is when manual starting issues occurred from the "Off" position sporadically. I just noticed that it didn't happen after setting the start button to "Run" first. I'm interested to hear if anyone else has had this issue and whether or not it was solved. But in my research I've heard others mention a failing fuel pump.

 

OK, it's fixed. It was the, "Check Engine" light. A few weeks back I started a thread about my "Check Engine" light coming on. To make a long story short, I bought a Foxwell code reader, and discovered it was a minor code that said, "Slight Leak Detected In Fuel Evaporator System", or some such.

I cleared it, and sure enough about 3 or 4 weeks later it came back on, and I cleared it again. Then it came on yet again. So I just left it, seeing as I knew it wasn't anything major. This morning I tried to remote start it again, and it started.... And shut down about 10 seconds later. So I got out my reader and cleared the "Check Engine" code again, and it extinguished the, "Check Engine" light.

I then tried the remote start 3 times. And all 3 times it started and stayed running. So.... The bottom line is that it appears the remote start won't function correctly if any "Check Engine" light code is thrown, and the light is on.

This is no doubt a way to get people into the dealer, complaining their remote start isn't working correctly. The dealer will then notice the "Check Engine" light, call up the code, and proceed to tell them their emission system needs $1K of work. They leave $1K poorer, but at least their remote start will be working correctly again, so they're happy.

That code reader I bought has more than paid for itself. Yeah, it's still a PITA the way it keeps coming back. But at least now I know what's happening, and there is nothing "wrong" with the remote start function itself. So if you guys find your remote start is malfunctioning, it's most likely the same deal.

 

This is no doubt a way to get people into the dealer, complaining their remote start isn't working correctly. The dealer will then notice the "Check Engine" light, call up the code, and proceed to tell them their emission system needs $1K of work. They leave $1K poorer, but at least their remote start will be working correctly again, so they're happy.

Actually no, It's simply a safety feature that will not allow an engine to continue running unattended when there is a DTC in the computer.

 

Keep talking. You're doing fine.

 

Mine has only done that if I remote start when the low fuel light is on. It will start and then turn off.

 

Glad it all worked out for you! $256.00 isn't bad.

 

yes plus I just got in the mail $20 speed perks back on the purchase to use at the store ... unfortunately there is nothing I need have to use by 5/13 so I should think of something by then .. I already have a ton of detailing supplies. Its always nice to get an unknown freebie.

 

Remote start failed, no lights flash, just nothing. Replaced fob battery, nothing. Took fob apart, little metal discs between rubber keypad and circuit board had come loose and were floating, second time in as many weeks. Pressed them back into place, this time with a tiny dot of super glue for each.
Everything now working as normal.

 

remote start will not let engine run more than a few seconds if there are any error codes.

 

Yes. It just started happening to me last night.

 

Read the reply right above yours.

Also...

All of the following conditions must be met before the
engine will remote start:
• Gear Selector in PARK
• Doors closed
• Hood closed
• Liftgate closed
• Hazard switch off
• Brake switch inactive (brake pedal not pushed)
• Battery at an acceptable charge level
• PANIC button not pushed
• System not disabled from previous remote start event
• Vehicle alarm system indicator flashing
• Ignition in STOP/OFF position
• Fuel level meets minimum requirement

NOTE:
• If an engine fault is present or fuel level is low, the
vehicle will start and then shut down in 10 seconds.

 

I have a similar problem, sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesn’t…I thought maybe because it was too cold, but it seems to have no rhyme or reason. Also weird electrical stuff happens..my heater is set to hi..when the auto start fails and I have to manually start the vehicle..the temp is magically down to 72..no idea of the cause

 

What did you determine was the cause mine has been doing this since it was new it's a 2015 I've never checked into it until this time

 

What did you determine was the cause mine has been doing this since it was new it's a 2015 I've never checked into it until this time

In my case it was because my check engine light was on for a code, that said there was a minor leak in the fuel evaporator system, that has to do with the vehicle emissions system.

I put the Check Engine light out by clearing the code with a code reader, as I mentioned in an above post. After that the remote start feature went back to working fine. But the code keeps coming back. So I haven't bothered to take it in.

My guess is the problem is in the capless gas tank filler neck. Which I'm told is about $1,200.00 to replace. And it will most likely happen again, so I'm not going to bother with it.

 

I having same issue now. What is the solution?

 

Same issue as whom?
Did you go through the checklists of all issues that won't let it remote start or stay running (from above posts)?
From RoadiJeff:
All of the following conditions must be met before the
engine will remote start:
• Gear Selector in PARK
• Doors closed
• Hood closed
• Liftgate closed
• Hazard switch off
• Brake switch inactive (brake pedal not pushed)
• Battery at an acceptable charge level
• PANIC button not pushed
• System not disabled from previous remote start event
• Vehicle alarm system indicator flashing
• Ignition in STOP/OFF position
• Fuel level meets minimum requirement
NOTE:
• If an engine fault is present or fuel level is low, the
vehicle will start and then shut down in 10 seconds.

 

kattscottr6
What year and how old are the battery(ies).??

 

I too have been having the remote start issue. Nov 1st I bought a 2020 Jeep Cherokee Limited with 80k miles. Remote start failed every time after 10sec. Then I started needing jumps. Then I had Low Oil Pressure light. Feb 18th they said I had a “substantial oil leek” and why didn’t I bring in sooner? When’s the last time the oil was changed? I bought the service contract for my “this is basically a new car” to be told my 2020 5yr old car needs major work to the tune of $1700. No oil on my driveway. I’m so frustrated with this car!

 

Should also note, I took it in for the remote issue & not starting, nothing to do with oil bc I wasn’t aware there was a problem. On my service invoice they noted it as:
Customer brought in for oil leak

I did not. It’s also my problem bc I’m not driving enough. I need to start the car 3x a day letting it run 45min to an hr. All seasons, not just winter.

 

I too have been having the remote start issue. Nov 1st I bought a 2020 Jeep Cherokee Limited with 80k miles. Remote start failed every time after 10sec. Then I started needing jumps. Then I had Low Oil Pressure light. Feb 18th they said I had a “substantial oil leek” and why didn’t I bring in sooner? When’s the last time the oil was changed? I bought the service contract for my “this is basically a new car” to be told my 2020 5yr old car needs major work to the tune of $1700. No oil on my driveway. I’m so frustrated with this car!

Should also note, I took it in for the remote issue & not starting, nothing to do with oil bc I wasn’t aware there was a problem. On my service invoice they noted it as:
Customer brought in for oil leak

I did not. It’s also my problem bc I’m not driving enough. I need to start the car 3x a day letting it run 45min to an hr. All seasons, not just winter.

Do not start your Jeep and let it idle.
What happened when you replaced both the Main Battery and the Aux Battery, did the issue continue where you needed to jump the Jeep to start it? If you didn't replace them and don't know when the batteries were replaced, replace them now.
Where exactly is the oil leak? If they didn't tell you, ask them.

 

I am gonna need more time to figure out what is happening with the battery. battery passed load test, which means there is a draw somewhere or the vehicle is not being driven enough in this cold weather to charge it up. there is also a substantial oil leak from the vehicle, it looks like the oil cooler split or has a blown seal and is leaking oil.
They would not replace the battery

 

ok guys, I am having issues with my remote start disabling 10-15 sec after starting with key fob. My oil needs changing, my Jeep is also a diesel. Which means that u add the DEF system into it all. Anyway, the code that I am displaying with this issue is P22fa- Scr nox Catalyst. This has to do with the airway in my DEF most likely being dirty and possibly clogged. My oil NEEDS changing, I just dropped to 0% and I have driven almost 3200 miles this round. Normally, my Jeep drinks about an entire jug of Blu Platinum DEF fluid. Not sure how many ounces the large bottle is, it costs around $55-65 depending on what brand u use. Anyway, with a diesel, u have a regeneration process that requires u to drive through the process, to clear it. In the past, I have only had to deal with this process when it's dirty, clogged, and or (the DEF system) hasn't been professionally cleaned out. I have only had 2 regeneration processes come through in the last 6 months. And they were both within a day of each other, which happened about a month back. I usually keep the maintenance pretty well kept up, and as soon as needed. I haven't cleaned the DEF system out in almost a year, it cost about $250 @ the Jeep dealership. It is a necessary maintenance fee if u have a diesel. For sure!! Anyway, as far as ya'll thinking that it's the battery, mine was replaced same time my DEF was cleaned out, a year ago. I never go under a quarter tank of fuel So it isn't either of those reasons. I decided to take it to my Jeep guys and asked them what they thought. Gave them my theory. And guess what? I was 100% on point, I had them clean out my DEF system, got the oil changed, then had the CEL cleared. So far I haven't had any issues, no CEL lights going on, and my remote start works like a charm again! So, if u are checking off all the handbook requirements, and still can't figure out the problem, take it to your local neighborhood auto store and ask them to run a test to see which codes are showing and what they mean. Chances are it is something simple, but still as necessary as a working battery. Good luck to ya'll and I hope I was able to help!!