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SRT Exhaust Manifold install on 2009 GC 5.7 Hemi.

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8.2K views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  whhjr73  
#1 · (Edited)
Here are the details and pics from installing SRT exhaust manifolds on my 2009 GC Limited 5.7 Hemi

I had recently replaced the muffler and added a remote control dump between the muffler and the resonator so this was reused.

There are mods for years other than 2009 and 2010 such as egr ports to consider.

There are lots of pictures and more details in Lucas's very helpful install thread here:


The following is a list of the major items purchased and location sourced:
GC SRT Exhaust manifolds (mine were from a 2007) (This forum FS )
Front half of a GC SRT Midpipe with converters (mine were from a 2006) (This forum FS)
Stainless steel vband clamps with dual flanges (for future easier removal of the midpipes) (ebay)131508686976
A 3" Stainless Y pipe (Ebay or Amazon)
MrGasket Headlock Header bolts 2236G (Grade 8 allen/hex with serrated teeth and angle tool)
10mm Exhaust Studs & Lock Nuts M10x1.50 Manifold Flange 8 studs 8 nut kit (ebay) (Used 4 studs / 8 nuts)
GC SRT Exhaust Manifold Gaskets MOPAR 5038098AA 5038099AA (RockAuto)
Walker Quietflow Muffler 21054 (This is a Chevy Truck application with 3" In and Out.(Amazon or Rockauto)
3" Stainless Exhaust Mandrel bend kit (Amazon) Mine is no longer available but if you search Blackhorse Racing you should find one.
I added an extra 02 bung for a Wideband 02 sensor for later tuning. Not required: (spare parts bin)

I am not sure if this is requred but previously when I did my trans service I had replaced the stock pan with a Dorman pan that had a drain plug.
This fit easier from front to back so it may be part of why I have more clearance for the converter than others have mentioned.
Dorman PN:265-817


Before moving ahead I did some minor cleanup on the ports of the Manifolds and Y pipe with a grinder and wire-wheeled the mating surfaces of all the flanges. I also installed the new studs on the flanges at this point.

Below is where I had the midpipe cut (This helped a lot with the shipping cost)

223341

Here is a pic of the piece that is cut from the right side of the transmission to allow the manifold fit.

223342

Pics and Comments:

Rough start: 2 broken bolts removing the stock right exhaust manifold
223343


Clearance between converter and transmission pan
223344


Vband clamps /Y pipe
223346



Muffler / Dump
223345


Tailpipe
223347




I did not have to use any 02 cable extensions the stock ones were fine.
There was some rerouting of one of the cables required.
The mechanic said that he did not have to remove the steering shaft but did have to remove some front accessories such as the AC compressor power steering pump etc. He was able to get the manifolds out and in from the bottom as this was done on a rack.
Much of the access is through the wheel-wells

Hope this helps the next person down the line.


If you are in Chicago the shop is open to doing more of these.
NewCity Auto repair.
 
#2 ·
Very nice looking setup, way cleaner than mine for sure! Where did you source that y pipe? And what brand are you using for the exhaust cutout/dump?
 
#3 ·
The Y pipe was from Amazon but they have them on ebay as well.
TOTALFLOW TF-SY3030 409 Stainless Steel 3 Inch Y-Pipe-3" Single / 3" Dual (Inner Diameter)
I spent some time with a grinder and file smoothing the inside welds a bit before installing.
They have more expensive ones that may flow better but I am satisfied with this one.

The exhaust cutout was an ebay find. They are about $60
I don't think you are allowed to put direct links here. If you put this description in google you'll see some good detailed pics. 3" 76mm E-Cut Out Valve System Downpipe Cutout Electric Exhaust Catback

I leave the remote control in the console pocket.
I liked that the assembly was multiple pieces so could be adjusted or motor replaced easily when it died.
Also it connected to a cigarette lighter which is how I used it for a couple of months.
Later while I was adding the MDS LED I added a few cigarette lighter receptacles that are hidden under the rear of the shifter console.

There is a plastic plug in the floor under the passenger seat that is good for drilling for the cable to get to the interior neatly. It can be sealed with some black silicon.

The 3 inch pipe mates to the midpipe nicely over the inner pipe and mates well with the outer for welding.

It sure does run better :)
 
#4 ·
Luke, where have you been? I haven't seen you on here in quite a while.....or maybe I just haven't noticed???
 
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#5 ·
Adrian!!! How are you old friend! The fine gentleman that started this thread reached out to me a while ago and I've been helping him NOT make the mistakes I did during my science experiment.
 
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#7 ·
Doing well, Luke. How about you? I've pretty much quit messing with mine after replacing all the valve seats and port/polish and mill the heads. Also did the same to my 5.7 Magnum, which is modded almost exactly like the Jeep. A little over a year ago I bought an 06 300C SRT8 from my Grandson. It had an engine problem and a few other things needed work. I spent about 4-5 months fixing it and now use it as a daily driver. It saves the Jeep and Magnum which are my "babies". The 300 has 170K on it now and is actually more fun to drive than the Jeep......blasphemy. The 06 Jeep only has only 114K on it and the 05 Maggie has only 90K on it, and they're both pretty much like new. I don't ever plan to buy another vehicle either, so this new toy helps preserve them. Other than that, I am pretty well done with all the serious modding......getting too old and they're all just the way I want them now.

Take care and hope you come back on more now.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Whhjr73 I'm really happy with it.
The car really responds well to this mod.
It is not very loud but it is bassier sounding. There is no drone on the highway. If you wanted it louder you could put the dump in front of the muffler or choose a different muffler. (FYI sometimes it takes 2x of closing the dump for it to close)

I think you will have to make egr provisions for a 2008. Luke's thread has some good pictures.

If I were to change something I would see if they could put the V-Bands a little further forward so that you can drop the midpipes without dropping the crossmember also I would make sure they are opposite "v-band part" forward.
this way you only need one spare v-band if you wanted to change everything around.
I would also pick up a spare v-band at the initial purchase as they differ slightly from each other.

Good luck and feel free to ask any questions.
 
#14 ·
After reading this thread I remembered I have a full exhaust from from an 2010 jeep srt in my attic it’s been sitting up there for 10 years. I forgot it was up there lol. It I think only has 4K miles on it. My buddy did full header and exhaust upgrade on his Jeep back then.