now that's a hell of a home job! your floor build is really impressive dude!

 

Thanks!

 

Which factory stereo do you have? It looks to me like it doesn't matter which one but just curious if this will work with the 6 speaker Boston Acoustic stereo with factory amp.

 

yes i have the boston acoustic system and an RAQ...

 

Looks good buddy, I did a similar install with mine the other day but mounted the amp in the tool tray. Gotta say this though. CLEAN THAT ENGINE BAY! LOL.

 

+1 for cleaning engine bay... i cleaned it up and degreased it this summer but gets dirty fast haha

 

i would place the subs facing back, they will sound alot better and louder

 

That's not necessarily true, given that bass frequencies are non-directional. However, that being said, for any given space (especially an enclosed one), there is an optimal placement (different per each sub/enclosure/cabin) for the best listening experience.

If you like the way they sound while facing up, keep them that way, it looks tight too.:thumbsup:

 

Now as far as tapping into the speaker wires coming from the amp, i have not taken the trim off back there to look at the amp but what i want to know is which color wires did you tap into and also how did you know which one is which. Does it say or did you look at the rear door speakers and see which wire color went to each one? Also which line out converter did you use? Is it a high level output or rca output?

 

Now as far as tapping into the speaker wires coming from the amp, i have not taken the trim off back there to look at the amp but what i want to know is which color wires did you tap into and also how did you know which one is which. Does it say or did you look at the rear door speakers and see which wire color went to each one? Also which line out converter did you use? Is it a high level output or rca output?

I'll answer for you as I just did this last weekend. Refer to the wiring diagram here: http://wkjeeps.com/wk_audio_pinouts.htm . Be sure to tap the AMPLIFIED WIRES.

Note that the only full range speakers (if you have the factory BA system) are the rear door speakers, so you'll want to tap those to get the best use from your LOC.

As for LOC's, everyone has their own opinion, but I personally went with the PAC SOEM-T, and it was plug & chug, super easy. (converts speaker level to RCA line level)

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SOEM-T-2-...annel-Line-Out-Converter/dp/B003550RLE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1327458103&sr=8-1

Also, a product which I notice that no one ever mentions, but make life easier, especially due to the cramped space and tight harnesses are these (probably saved me a bunch of time, not to mention EASILY removable and they don't practically split your wires:

http://www.amazon.com/Posi-tap-Conn...-Gauge-Wire/dp/B00389UT3I/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1327458253&sr=1-2

For more info on how the posi-taps work, see this:
http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html

 

yea i used the pin out diagram from wkjeeps.com and as far as my line output converter i used the scosche LOC from crutchfield and the output was RCAs

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142LOC80/Scosche-LOC80.html?search=line+output+converter

 

i dont know if you've gone back at all, but please please please put some kind of plastic or rubber grommet in the firewall where your power wire is going through. The last thing you want it to have that wire rub through the insulation and ground out on your firewall. Bad bad things happen, seen it first hand from other shops.

Also, split loom that power wire under the hood, it'l keep it from melting from the heat of your engine on long trips and such.

 

Nice job man. Bet that sounds awsome

 

Where did you splice in your remote (blue) wire to turn on your amp with the car?

 

Easiest place is the cigarette lighter. Snap out the bezel and pop a posi-tap on there. You can run the cable easily from there under the pop down panel beneath the steering wheel to the floorplate sills, where you can run to the amp in the rear.

I also wired in a switch in-line for mine so I could turn the sub on/off at will. Seems to really help with cold starts in the winter for that amp to not suck out all the extra energy.

 

Cool, that's what I figured. Those posi-taps are awesome.

 

Those posi-taps are awesome.

:thumbsup:

 

+1 on the cig lighter. In fact my entire system runs off that lol

 

and i actually changed it a lil bit... went with the kicker 4ga power/ground, dual 12" pioneer champion series subs, and a 1800w kenwood mono heres a link to the video....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0SenSmqwG4

 

Looks like a decent build. I'm more of a SQ guy, hence my choice of a more subdued system. I also found it quite interesting that you focused on the vibrations of the other parts of your car more than the subs themselves (which is exactly the opposite of what I focus on). That being said, looks like you got a decently clean install.

Maybe I'm paranoid, but I'm glad that I put my amp underneath the floor in the cargo/tool space. Security covers scream I have stuff to steal, come get it and I don't think I'd ever put all that equipment in the back of my Jeep, unless you have a nice security system too.

If so, which type do you have? (thinking about installing one soon).:thumbsup:

 

^ yea. Agreed. My box is bolted to the floor and the my 4 channel is in the floor like yours. My sub amp is behind the panel in the passenger side where the satellite receiver used to be.

Quick story, last year a hurricane came by and everybody had their cars in the barracks parking garage. At some point some assholes swept buy and smashed the windows and grabbed every touch screen they saw. I've got roughly $2k in HQ stuff and mine didn't get broken into because it looks like a generic alpine single din deck. It's actually the hifi CDA-117. Everything else looks factory. Idiots.

 

^ At some point some assholes swept buy and smashed the windows and grabbed every touch screen they saw. I've got roughly $2k in HQ stuff and mine didn't get broken into because it looks like a generic alpine single din deck. It's actually the hifi CDA-117. Everything else looks factory. Idiots.

Thankfully, the criminal population are typically stupid, and only take what's in plain sight, which is why I opted for the cargo area amp.

If you're unfamiliar with my setup click the link in my sig.

That's a pretty sick setup, mine is much more generic, and I'm still using the standard REC unit with a LOC. I am however considering amping the Boston SE's. Unfortunately, since I like my REC, I'd have to use the outputs from the stock amp (to avoid messing with CANBUS), wire over to the other amp, and then back to the standard speaker wiring loom (to avoid rewiring the whole whip). Too much of a PITA methinks.

 

If you're unfamiliar with my setup click the link in my sig.

 

I did something to my canbus trying to use a PAC. Not sure what I did but eventually wired the deck the old fashioned way since I had to rewrite everything else anyway. I'm considering
just dumping it off to a shop because I don't feel like dealing with it.

 

LOL I'm glad I took my time and randomly got it right the first time around. I should've taken pics and done a build thread, but I didn't really have a buddy helping and I was too lazy to take pics. I'm just glad it's working like a champ. The only weak part is my $3 walmart light up switch which has already had the light fail. POS Made in China...and I'm too lazy to return it for an exchange...

 

Yea. I installed the new deck and it didn't turn on. I also reinstalled the REC and it too didn't turn on. I pretty much reacted like the meme where the dude is like "Ffffffffffuuuuuuuuuuu cccccccc kkkkkkkkk!" because the next day I had to travel 400 miles. It was a VERY quiet and LONG drive.

 

[shoots self in head]. Man that would SUUUUUCK. Glad you're all up and running now though

 

Where did you splice your LOC into the speaker wires at? The pin outs (http://wkjeeps.com/wk_audio_pinouts.htm) dont match my amp outputs at all. I was hoping to do it right under the seat at the factory amp so I don't have to run my RCA very far.

 

If you scroll down on that page to the Amplifier Pin-outs, they should match up perfectly...

 

I did that but I don't have any gray wires and I have more than what it shows on the pin outs.... I'm confused.

 

Now that's odd. Just so we're on the same page, you're looking at the amp behind the trim panel in the trunk space right? If you don't have gray wires attached at all to those pinouts, it's possible that you have a different harness (off of a different year Jeep).

 

I'll double check tomorrow after work but I went through the bundle and didn't see any gray wires. I have an 06 overland so it should match up fine. Maybe I just didn't look hard enough or the pain killers for my broken ribs are making me hallucinate.

 

That floor board is impressive. Nice install and thanks for the pics!!

 

I got it figured out I don't know what I was looking at yesterday. One thing though... I tapped my remote into the cig lighter in the cargo area so my amp is always going to be on. With the light on the amp on all the time it's just asking to get stolen so is there anywhere else back there to tap into for the remote? Would another amplified speaker wire work for that or could I use one of the FUSED B+ wires from the C2 stock amp connector? If I ran it from the cig lighter up front I would have put a switch in but it was easier to do it in the cargo area and now I dont have that option.

 

I dont think you tapped the cig lighter. The cig lighter (port on the left) is in fact controlled by the ignition. The power port on the right is constant. Youll kill your battery if you leave it wired to the port on the right.