Hi FirehawkNS

My 2013 JGC 5.7 Hemi started doing this yesterday and is sitting at a shop today. All the info I have read says the same things you have read...Motor or module. The shop wants to replace the motor for $820 including labor, but my understanding is, if it is the module, it would only be a few hundred bucks and easy to change myself (except the programming).

Did you figure yours out?

 

I ordered both the control module and motor. They are not due to arrive until Thursday. My plan is to replace the module (because it takes longer to move the driver seat to get to it, than to actually replace) first and see what happens. I will probably replace the motor as well either way. Looks like a fairly easy job watching some videos on various other transfer cases. I will let you know what happens Friday when I believe I will have time to do this work.

 

Thanks - I just ordered the module online and told the shop I would be in to pick up the Jeep and try that first. I should get mine in the mail from Mopar by next Tuesday, but if you get around to updating the thread with your progress before then so I can be aware of any roadblocks, I would appreciate it. If the Module replacement doesn't work, I will move on to the motor, and potentially, based on your feedback, possibly try to replace it myself as well.

 

~Update~

Issue looks to be resolved (+ some)

I got the module in and threw it on. Upon putting the Jeep in Run (Not on brake) there was a clunk from the transfercase and a bit of a shake and then everything was normal. I assume it was unlocking the Transfercase from where I tried to put it in 4lo in testing.

Cranked right up and issue was completely gone. In addition, I have been having annoying rough 1st to 2nd shiffing issues for years now that have gotten much worse in the last 6 months. Shifting in general seemed a bit rough for a newer vehicle and has been my main complaint owning this jeep (Bought used). My test drive and drive to work this morning, it was smooth as butter shifting. 1st to 2nd shutter was completely gone. Thing has never shifted this well. Maybe this thing was going out for a while and could have been the reason the first owner decided to trade it in, who knows, but I am a happy camper right now.

Part I took out model number:

New part I put in:

For anyone needing the info. It's located under the driver seat, like the battery is under the passenger seat.

If you are having shifting issues in general that the dealer couldn't find anything wrong, $250 might be worth it for some piece of mind and annoyance.

 

~Update~

Issue looks to be resolved (+ some)

I got the module in and threw it on. Upon putting the Jeep in Run (Not on brake) there was a clunk from the transfercase and a bit of a shake and then everything was normal. I assume it was unlocking the Transfercase from where I tried to put it in 4lo in testing.

Cranked right up and issue was completely gone. In addition, I have been having annoying rough 1st to 2nd shiffing issues for years now that have gotten much worse in the last 6 months. Shifting in general seemed a bit rough for a newer vehicle and has been my main complaint owning this jeep (Bought used). My test drive and drive to work this morning, it was smooth as butter shifting. 1st to 2nd shutter was completely gone. Thing has never shifted this well. Maybe this thing was going out for a while and could have been the reason the first owner decided to trade it in, who knows, but I am a happy camper right now.

Part I took out model number:

New part I put in:

For anyone needing the info. It's located under the driver seat, like the battery is under the passenger seat.

If you are having shifting issues in general that the dealer couldn't find anything wrong, $250 might be worth it for some piece of mind and annoyance.

I'm confused with what part u changed....u said it was under driver seat like battery is under passenger seat....what part n what type of battery are u referring to under passenger seat

 

Oh, and I don't know what the programming thing is about. I have no indicators on the dash of issues, it is driving great, turning great (actually better than ever I think when making a sharp turn), I am at a loss on what needs to be "programmed".

 

my 2008 jeep liberty is in the garage...4wd isn't working n serv. 4wd lites r on...he says I need a 4wd control module and will have to take it to dealer to be programmed???? Is this the same thing u changed....and was ur 4wd not working with service lites on?

 

Man that is awesome news. Hoping mine is the exact same way. I did the same thing that you did...driving my son to daycare and thought "Hmmm...well it does it in Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive...how about Sand? Snow? Mud? Sport? 4wheel Lo?" Shit. Can't get it out of 4lo for the life of me after 45 minutes in a parking lot with my son saying "Daddy? Is the Jeep broken!?"...It has been sitting in the garage for 2 days waiting for the part to arrive.

I told my wife that it was my fault, but told work, after showing up 2 hours late, that "It just went in to 4wheel lo and wouldn't get out of it."

Fingers crossed.

Thanks for reporting back. Made my day.

 

Man that is awesome news. Hoping mine is the exact same way. I did the same thing that you did...driving my son to daycare and thought "Hmmm...well it does it in Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive...how about Sand? Snow? Mud? Sport? 4wheel Lo?" Shit. Can't get it out of 4lo for the life of me after 45 minutes in a parking lot with my son saying "Daddy? Is the Jeep broken!?"...It has been sitting in the garage for 2 days waiting for the part to arrive.

I told my wife that it was my fault, but told work, after showing up 2 hours late, that "It just went in to 4wheel lo and wouldn't get out of it."

Fingers crossed.

Thanks for reporting back. Made my day.

Hey Nolan, Did the new module fix your issue? I went through the same sequence and got stuck in 4Low + Transfer Case neutral, although I was backed into the driveway.

My issue was not exactly the same from the start, I just started getting a random SERV 4wd message while driving and ACC, FCW, Trac. Ctrl were all disabled. The first & second time the message cleared by the next time I hopped in but this time the message stayed on and I started pushing buttons to make sure everything was working or wasn't. Now, I am stuck in 4LOW & TC Neutral red light is solid. When I roll forward and back to test I can't tell if it's actually in TC Neutral (RWD) or 4LOW. It is high RPMs & slow-moving. Pretty clearly not in 4HI.

Based on this thread I am thinking I should just order the module and snap it in myself to start.

 

Some people said they replaced just the Control unit, some just the motor, some both, some the entire transfer case. Seems you have to have a special scanner to see any codes for the 4wd system, but since I don't have any lights, I assume I don't have any codes possible. My scanner doesn't show any issues.

Because there are several components working together, in a chain, to apply or reduce pressure on the clutch pack inside the Transfer Case, if any of them fail in the chain, just like a link in a chain fails, the end of the chain doesn't work. Many components inside the Transfer Case, if they fail, its cheaper just to replace the whole unit with a rebuild than break it down and repair the internal components yourself.

I actually thought you were jumping the gun deciding it was the electronic module, and thought you would be sorry when you replaced only to find out the real cause was another one of the other components in the chain that failed.

OBDII is a government mandated protocol for emissions, so the gov mandate makes it standard and thus easy for a third party to produce a scanning tool with the gov published protocol. Just about everything with the engine and a few things with the transmission will affect emissions. So the one good thing, a cheap OBDII scanner can give you all the codes for the engine and a few for the transmission.

The problem is, the manufacturers built on that technology for their other systems, but aren't required by a gov mandate to stick to a standard protocol. And all the manufacturers take advantage of consumer ignorance to make their software protocols proprietary and keep them from owner's and independent shops in an attempt to force their owners into their Dealerships.

FCADiag and AlphaOBD are a cheap solution, there are others that are more expensive and they all do different levels of diagnostic and service, usually short of the Dealer tool, but enough for what a consumer needs.

...Through research a lot of people have had the FDCM (final drive control module or Transfer Case Control Module) replaced at the dealer for this. I have yet to see a post pointing to this issue in a 2014 or newer WK2, mostly 2012 and older. Also mentioned in a couple of post is the dealer has to program the control unit. Not sure what they are programming it for though and only saw that a couple of times for older jeeps.

My biggest concern right now is finding the info on programming and I don't know enough on transfer cases to know if I need to drain it to pull the motor. I would assume so, but can't find anything online. Seems most people just go to the dealer to work on these. :/

Oh, and I don't know what the programming thing is about. I have no indicators on the dash of issues, it is driving great, turning great (actually better than ever I think when making a sharp turn), I am at a loss on what needs to be "programmed".

Again, consumer ignorance, Modules can need.....

• Flashed - overwrite existing firmware with newer updated firmware
• Configuring - entering information or options that change how it operates
• Calibration with the mechanical system they are controlling
• Enabled - as in flipping a bit to allow them to work
• VIN, PIN, mileage or Serial Numbers written to non-volatile/volatile memory to work with anti-theft protocols or other parts of protocols.
• Service Procedures that activate certain mechanical items the module controls necessary during servicing or repair or putting the system in certain modes to learn a baseline for the equipment it is controlling...

I'm sure there are more that I forgot.....

But for those that don't know better, they just describe it as "Programing the Module".....

You didn't say what Transfer Case you have, it's a good assumption you have the MP3023. I thought I read somewhere the clutch pack requires a calibration of its initial point to apply pressure. Not sure if it performs that calibration itself during normal operation, of it it's done as a service procedure. If it requires a calibration procedure to be activated, that might be the "Programming" you hear discussed. And the system might work ok without the calibration, there is probably some default set that works close to normal, but you're not getting the right torque biases out of the system until its calibrated. I don't know that for a fact, just a guess based off what I little I know.

Also, can you disable 4wd and put the front transfer case in neutral on these at all? Don't really want to drive it like this, but don't have much of a choice while waiting on parts.

The Jeep implementation of the MP3023 can be put into neutral for flat towing, that is only an option to disconnect the drivetrain from both front and rear axles, not just one.

From what I read, the MP3023 has the ability to completely disengage the clutch pack to go into RWD mode, Jeep just choose not to use that mode.

Going into "Sport" mode will reduce the torque bias to a minimum, 10% Front / 90% Rear for earlier WK2's, not sure on the later. And that is a torque bias, not a torque split, driving down the road steady state you'll have an even amount of torque applied to all wheels. If you turn, wheels slip, jam the accelerator down, you get a split of 10/90 while in that transitory state, but then back to an even split again.

The way the MP3023 switches mode is a single discrete signal of different voltage levels. So I guess if you disconnected the control module and apply the right voltage to the right pin, you'd get it to shift into the RWD mode that other manufacturers use. Or you could rewrite the software of the control module. But neither sound very practical, and it does sound like a good way to destroy your expensive transfer case, cause you're likely to get something wrong or fail to anticipate something that will go wrong, and cause damage. So the practical answer is, there is no way to completely disengage the front drivetrain for you WK2.

And I could be wrong, it's possible the MP3023 delivered to Jeep are built different than others and have no ability to shift into RWD only mode, as in mechanically impossible, not just a mode not utilized in the control module like I suspect......

 

for the part you purchased did you just replace the old module with one you found online and did that do the trick for you?
I have the same problem with the traction control always being on and my 4x4 being disabled
TIA

 

for the part you purchased did you just replace the old module with one you found online and did that do the trick for you?
I have the same problem with the traction control always being on and my 4x4 being disabled
TIA

Had to get the 4x4 module from the dealer

 

Part was $240 I believe . It is a DIY thing so simple it is under the drivers seat and under a cover .
A little black box two plugs It just slides in a slot no screws or bolts. Slide the seat all the way forward easy to do. It is the one all the way forward in the compartment 2012 Grand Cherokee overland summit 5.7 is mine. The kid told Me that they have superseded a couple times Part numbers may be different than the one in it. So take the VIN number. After you change it leave your foot off the brake and push button twice to ignition. You should hear a clunking noise.

 

So the module didn't need to be "enabled" to work, with the dealer tools? Great, not all of them do, so glad you didn't need to deal with that hassle and expense....

 

I also experienced all of these issues in my 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with 112,000 miles. There was the hesitation going from stop to accelerating, clicking when I would shift into gear, and my service 4wd system light would come on at speeds on 50+. I took it to the dealership and they quoted me $3,500 to replace the transfer case, so I took it to another mechanic for a second opinion and they were quoting about $2,000. A family friend ended up replacing the transfer case and the issue was still occurring. He also tried replacing the drive shaft and rear diff and those didn't work either. So after all this, I still had the same issue. I decided to try and replace the transfer case control module myself. I bought the part for ~$275 from Moparpartsonline.com. Like others have said, my TCCM was under the drivers seat and its literally two little clasps that you plug in and out - it couldn't have been easier. There was no need to have it flashed or reprogrammed - it worked and drove instantly. My jeep actually drives even better than it did before all of this happened.

Long story short: Try the TCCM before spending any money on big repairs. Its a relatively cheap part and super easy to install.

 

I also experienced all of these issues in my 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with 112,000 miles. There was the hesitation going from stop to accelerating, clicking when I would shift into gear, and my service 4wd system light would come on at speeds on 50+. I took it to the dealership and they quoted me $3,500 to replace the transfer case, so I took it to another mechanic for a second opinion and they were quoting about $2,000. A family friend ended up replacing the transfer case and the issue was still occurring. He also tried replacing the drive shaft and rear diff and those didn't work either. So after all this, I still had the same issue. I decided to try and replace the transfer case control module myself. I bought the part for ~$275 from Moparpartsonline.com. Like others have said, my TCCM was under the drivers seat and its literally two little clasps that you plug in and out - it couldn't have been easier. There was no need to have it flashed or reprogrammed - it worked and drove instantly. My jeep actually drives even better than it did before all of this happened.

Long story short: Try the TCCM before spending any money on big repairs. Its a relatively cheap part and super easy to install.

This thread should be pinned to help people avoid dealers trying to rip everyone off with a transfer case replacement. My 2014 overland just had all the same symptoms mentioned in this thread. Dealer tried to sell me on a new transfer case for $5,600. I replaced the transfer control module today and it fixed all the issues.

 

How many miles do you have? When was the last time the transfer case fluid was checked/changed?

 

I got it used at 44k a few months ago and it’s at 51k miles now.
I just had it in for the 50k maintenance, oil, tires, inspection. But not sure when/if the transfer case has been looked at.
I dropped it off at the dealer tonight and they scanned it and said it might be a full transfer case That’s bad but can’t say for sure. I’ll try to post back with any updates.

 

Posting an update after getting it back from the dealership this afternoon.
The repair was covered under warranty and took 3 days from the time I dropped it off.

Notes:

T-CASE STUCK IN 4WD LOW, FOUND FLUID BURNT DUE TO MAIN SHAFT CLUTCH ASSEMBLY FAILURE.
FOUND FLUID LEVEL WAS OL, FLUID CONDITION LOOKED ABNORMAL. FOUND ELEC. COMPONENTS OK
REMOVED T-CASE AND OPENED T-CASE FOR INSPECTION MAINSHAFT CLUTCH ASSEMBLY FAILURE MATERIAL CLUTCH PACK HAVE FAILED.
REPLACED MAINSHAFT ASSY. RE-INSTALLED T-CASE AND FOUND PROPER OPERATION AFTER REPAIR.

68071221-AC - T-CASE MAINSHAFT
68026955-AA - SEAL
5010884-AD - SEALER

 

2013 Jeep Grand the Transfer Case Control Mod. Was a successful repair. Constant clicking from the transfer case motor binding when steering to tight. Thanks for the help guys and gals! Oh no programming needed for now

 

Wanted to say that because of this thread I was able to fix my transfer case clicking issue with the Transfer Case Control Module, my “service 4 wheel drive” light was coming on and the car didn’t seem to feel right when driving in low gears. All of this is resolved now!

For reference, I have a 2015 Grand Cherokee and only 40k miles , it has 4 wheel drive/Quadra track, this is important when purchasing the correct Transfer Case Control Module, I got mine from Rock Auto for about $300.

I was quoted for complete rebuilds of the transfer case at well over $3000 from 2 Jeep service locations. Can’t thank this forum enough!

 

It was really useful for me, I had the same annoying issue in my 2014 Overland GC. The dealer released front shaft so that I could drive the car because they were not sure about the solution. Finally I decided to order the TCCM and at last I got it fixed. By the way, there has been a big snowstorm here three weeks ago, and I can say that it is really difficult to drive the Jeep only with rear shaft. Even wiht all season tires it was depressing oversteer to the minimum turn. May be equiping winter tires it would have been different result. Anyway, I think this car is the king in snow conditions, when it´s well fixed.

 

The initial evaluation on my 2014 Overland 3.6L from Dealer X was to replace the transfer case. Cost estimate $5,000. Mechanic Y said it's likely old tranny fluid, so we replaced that along with the differential fluids. No improvement. The car was throwing a code indicating the module lost contact with the transfer motor. Clicking sound. The slippage between 1st/2nd gear. Resistance when turning.

Quick research led me to this thread. Eureka? I mailed the thread to mechanic Y, he ordered the Module, and true to form (after a battery swap) we started the engine, a few clicks, and shifts smooth as silk.

 

I am beyond thrilled that this thread has helped so many.

All has still been good for me since starting this and figuring it out. I am very disappointed at the amount of transfer replacement required opinions people are getting for something that could be a simple swap at the dealer to prove out this issue.

 

I am beyond thrilled that this thread has helped so many.

All has still been good for me since starting this and figuring it out. I am very disappointed at the amount of transfer replacement required opinions people are getting for something that could be a simple swap at the dealer to prove out this issue.

I created an account just to thank you for posting this solution. I, like others, had the dreaded ticking transfer case (it was almost constant) and the "Service 4WD" dash light for almost 9 months. Both a Jeep dealership and a large reputable independent mechanic quoted me $5k for a full transfer case replacement. I ordered part number 68395643AA ($246 shipped) for my 2012 Grand Cherokee Limited from moparonlineparts.com. I installed the new control module today (in under 5 minutes) and the ticking is GONE, service light is GONE (no software flashing or reset) and it drives great. Thank you so much!!!!

 

Seems like a lot of folks are having this or similar problems w/ transfer case?

You got lucky. My MY12 Grand Cherokee Limited transfer case imploded last week while taking off into an intersection. After an awful noise the '4WD Service' light came on, slipped into neutral, lost gear shift, coasted through traffic narrowly avoiding collision, off onto the side of the road, then couldn't get back into gear. Called a tow truck and the dealer has just quoted me to replace the entire transfer case, drive shaft and rear diff. More than the resale value of the car - with only 49,000 kms on the clock. It's basically a write-off.

 

Just made an account so I could send my appreciation to FirehawkNS and everyone else in this thread. I developed the exact same symptoms a week ago and it grew progressively worse(I have a 2014 Grand Cherokee Overland with 94k miles). Sometimes the Jeep would operate normally, and others I couldn’t even make a sharp turn without feeling the wheels lock up. The transfer case was making several clicks and felt sluggish between 1st and 2nd. I ordered the part on Rockauto.com and it was shipped within a few days. I thought about disconnecting the battery and performing a memory reset, but after reading this thread I felt confident to just plug and play the module with the vehicle off. I pressed the start button twice without my foot off the brake, heard the transfer case make a couple more sounds before I fully started the ignition. So far, my Jeep is running smoother than ever! Thanks for helping me save thousands of dollars!!!

 

I began experiencing issues over 20k miles ago when I would slowly come to a complete stop and the transmission would downshift from 2nd to 1st gear. It was a annoying jerk/shutter but if I braked like most Californians do I wouldn't experience this issue. Three weeks ago I began receiving the "Service 4WD System" error on the EVIC when my speed reached above 55MPH. The error would clear own its own after driving at speeds under 55MPH for a few minutes. I was still able to activate 4WD low.

I never noticed the TICKING noise that was described by other members until was in drive-thru. The ticking noise would appear for 5 seconds or so and then stop for a few seconds and the cycle would repeat.

I replaced the transfer case control module (TCCM) and it cured the downshift issue and the 4WD error message hasn't appeared.

Big to the OP. Thank you

 

I began experiencing issues over 20k miles ago when I would slowly come to a complete stop and the transmission would downshift from 2nd to 1st gear. It was a annoying jerk/shutter but if I braked like most Californians do I wouldn't experience this issue. Three weeks ago I began receiving the "Service 4WD System" error on the EVIC when my speed reached above 55MPH. The error would clear own its own after driving at speeds under 55MPH for a few minutes. I was still able to activate 4WD low.

I never noticed the TICKING noise that was described by other members until was in drive-thru. The ticking noise would appear for 5 seconds or so and then stop for a few seconds and the cycle would repeat.

I replaced the transfer case control module (TCCM) and it cured the downshift issue and the 4WD error message hasn't appeared.

Big to the OP. Thank you

Awesome guys.

I am happy I was able to get the thread detailed enough to help others get this answered as cheaply as possible. I am at 118,500 miles now, still running great since the change. Knocks on wood

 

Did you ever drive it with it unplugged? If so, did the light go out but traction control stay on? Drove fine?

 

I don't think anyone has. The MP3023 Transfer Case directly drives the rear drivetrain, the clutch pack engages the front drivetrain by an electric motor and linkage. The module controls that clutch pack. And the clutch pack pressure changes constantly with different modes, conditions, speeds and when turning. At higher speeds while cruising its actually taking all pressure off the clutch pack to make the vehicle RWD.

So disconnecting the module might take off all pressure on the clutch pack and result in the transfer case being constantly in RWD only. Or it might simply leave the electric motor and linkage in the last position it was in, and then the pressure would not be taken off the clutch pack when it was necessary, creating binding in the drivetrain while driving and wearing out the clutch pack very quickly and then you'll need a new Transfer case.

I once tried to jack my WK2, with MP3023 transfer case, on a hill, with the rear wheels going up in the air with the parking brake set. I figured the rear wheels locked with the parking brake would prevent the front wheels from turning. My WK2 started rolling down hill as soon as the rear wheels got off the ground. That's an indication when the vehicle is shutdown the pressure on the clutch pack is at least not enough to keep the front wheels turning with a little force from the rear wheels.

So disconnected the Module might put it in RWD, it might not, and a Transfer case is an expensive thing to experiment with. You could put the vehicle up in the air on jack stands, with the engine running with the module disconnected and see if you turn both front wheels without resistance. They have to turn in the same direction.

Finally, I doubt disconnected the module will get rid of the 4WD warning message, the module disconnected is indicating something is wrong and the warning will still light. Its possible, if the module has discrete wiring to the warning light itself on the panel, but that is unusual now a days. The instrument panel has its own control module turning lights on/off according to CAN Bus messages, if the module doesn't report back on the bus, then it lights the warning light simply because the module is dead as far as the system knows.

Remember, QT1 drivetrain has the MP2011 transfer case, this is a much simpler transfer case without any electronic control that I am aware of. It might not even be a control module for it.

The QT2 and QD2 use MP3023 transfer case.

 

Hi everyone,
I have a 2011 WK2 that had this problem ... in the technical service they suggested me to buy the transfer case motor, since they did not detect anything with the scanner. I preferred to buy the module (ebay with VIN) it took 11 days to get to my house (Santiago, Chile) I changed it myself and problem solved !!!! no more clicks or strange sounds .. and the "low" works perfectly!!!
original module: P56029423AG
new module: P68395643AA
Thanks a lot!!!

 

Bouncing this thread again to give another data point.

2014 WK2 Summit. 105k miles and have had it over a year.

Started getting the 'Service 4Wd light' and had it slip into neutral and shift roughly between 2 and 3. Would not go into 4WD at all. Took it to the dealer, they looked at it and said TC had burnt fluid and lots of metal "seems like something let go." They replace the TC, say it won't go into 4 Low and needs the controller. After that and $2900 it's driving beautifully so far.

Concerned that maybe all it needed was the controller - but - the previous owner used to flat tow it behind a motorhome (still has the brackets) and I wouldn't be surprised if the TC might have had some wear as a result. So it's crapshoot I guess.

Everything else is in fantastic shape and even did the Radio swap to get Carplay/AA.

Appreciate this thread and the forum.

 

Sorry to resurrect an old thread. I have a 2014 grand cherokee diesel which has been diagnosed with a faulty transfer case control module.

However, the Auto electrical place did not want to get involved with replacing it, saying I need to take it to a dealer who can supply and program a new unit. In the meantime, they disconnected the module so the Jeep is perfectly driveable (no more jerking and binding) but until the module is replaced I can't select 4wd.

I'm loathe to take it back to the dealer given they were hopeless, saying I need a new transfer case so I tried a couple other 4wd specialists here in Perth and no one wants to touch it, telling me the same thing - take it to a dealer. These advices contradict what others here have said, ie it is not plug and play.

So can anyone confirm whether or not the transfer control module can be replaced by simply plug and play?

.

 

Sorry to resurrect an old thread. I have a 2014 grand cherokee diesel which has been diagnosed with a faulty transfer case control module.

However, the Auto electrical place did not want to get involved with replacing it, saying I need to take it to a dealer who can supply and program a new unit. In the meantime, they disconnected the module so the Jeep is perfectly driveable (no more jerking and binding) but until the module is replaced I can't select 4wd.

I'm loathe to take it back to the dealer given they were hopeless, saying I need a new transfer case so I tried a couple other 4wd specialists here in Perth and no one wants to touch it, telling me the same thing - take it to a dealer. These advices contradict what others here have said, ie it is not plug and play.

So can anyone confirm whether or not the transfer control module can be replaced by simply plug and play?

.

How did you go Chooke? I'm from Aus as well and thinking about replacing the TCM as well. Sounds like the Auto electrician didn't know enough to fix the issue. I've been getting help from these guys www.ausjeepoffroad.com and based on this forum and that one, the TCM is just plug and play and easy enough to fix yourself. No programming required. Here's a video on it as well (US Version - so swap sides for the Aussie mode).
Found this and they say don't program it, and there's an installation guide ( see videos below too)

Four Wheel Drive: if I Replace the TCCM How Do You Reprogram It?

If I replace the TCCM how do you reprogram it? Reply 1: Good evening, You would need an advanced scan tool, access to the GM web site to download ...

www.2carpros.com

The one below this one also refers to not needed to program it @6:45 mins in.

Here's another one that fixes another problem with the same part - no programming