[NinjaGrunt]

So I think I have it, but minor version. Which is why I'm wondering what it sounds like. Only happens when I'm going slow through a parking lot, or pulling out of a stop sign, etc. Does that sound right?

 

[Mongo53]

Ok, so long as I only do one bracket at a time, I don’t have to worry about breaking anything? Just want to make sure haha. Thank you for the response by the way.

Well, anytime you're pulling undercarriage bolts you're in risk of snapping them off because they corrode and seize. But mine came out without breaking, the big bolt will take quite a bit of effort. Really nothing to worry about.

Does anyone have an updated video/audio of the symptoms here to share? The OP video no longer works. TYIA

The video was from someone else on youtube, I linked it to my original post because it perfectly recreated the creek noise and explained the cause....

The subframe has huge rubber bushings in it, that 4 bolts go through to the body. So this allows a little bit of motion between the subframe and body. The 2 rear bolts have the braces on them, presumably to support the long rear bolts on the opposite end where it bolts in. The area is tight and just a little bending, denting and the brace with touch the subframe. When that happens, as the subframe moves a little in relation to the body, it rubs against the brace and makes a creaking noise.

At first you assume it has to be brakes or suspension, cause the creek occurs when you hit the brakes at low speed or as the nose of the vehicle goes up and down.... ....But not always when the nose goes up and down, you can drive over a speed bump and it won't creek, you can slam on the brakes at high speed and can't hear it, either it doesn't creek or the creek is drowned out by road noise.

I was able to figure it out, that its when the weight shifts at low speeds, accelerate or deccelerate, even a tiny amount, but at low speed that will shift the weight fore-aft and the creek noise is made.

I’ll get one for you later, I’m gonna attempt to bang mine back into normal position with a hammer. It’s like an old creaky floorboard when braking at low speed or taking turns slowly.

I tried that, it didn't work, but mostly because it wasn't until I changed the braces did I actual see/realize what was making contact and causing the creek.

The sub-frame has big metal tabs sticking out of the back of it that don't seem to have any apparent purpose, I suspect its for assembly, probably where its lifted into the body.
The brace only clears that tab by a fraction of an inch.

Only after I pulled my own braces did I notice they were bowed and did not lay flat on the ground, the brace was touching that tab sticking out of the back of the sub-frame. When I installed my new braces that do lay flat on the ground, they don't touch that tab sticking out of the back of the sub-frame.

So if you mangle the front of the brace it may touch the sub-frame and cause a creek, but a jackstand can also put pressure on the brace and bend/bow it upward in the center. And that causes it to touch and rub on that tab sticking out the back of the sub-frame.

 

[Icg42]

Well, anytime you're pulling undercarriage bolts you're in risk of snapping them off because they corrode and seize. But mine came out without breaking, the big bolt will take quite a bit of effort. Really nothing to worry about.


The video was from someone else on youtube, I linked it to my original post because it perfectly recreated the creek noise and explained the cause....

The subframe has huge rubber bushings in it, that 4 bolts go through to the body. So this allows a little bit of motion between the subframe and body. The 2 rear bolts have the braces on them, presumably to support the long rear bolts on the opposite end where it bolts in. The area is tight and just a little bending, denting and the brace with touch the subframe. When that happens, as the subframe moves a little in relation to the body, it rubs against the brace and makes a creaking noise.

At first you assume it has to be brakes or suspension, cause the creek occurs when you hit the brakes at low speed or as the nose of the vehicle goes up and down.... ....But not always when the nose goes up and down, you can drive over a speed bump and it won't creek, you can slam on the brakes at high speed and can't hear it, either it doesn't creek or the creek is drowned out by road noise.

I was able to figure it out, that its when the weight shifts at low speeds, accelerate or deccelerate, even a tiny amount, but at low speed that will shift the weight fore-aft and the creek noise is made.


I tried that, it didn't work, but mostly because it wasn't until I changed the braces did I actual see/realize what was making contact and causing the creek.

The sub-frame has big metal tabs sticking out of the back of it that don't seem to have any apparent purpose, I suspect its for assembly, probably where its lifted into the body.
The brace only clears that tab by a fraction of an inch.

Only after I pulled my own braces did I notice they were bowed and did not lay flat on the ground, the brace was touching that tab sticking out of the back of the sub-frame. When I installed my new braces that do lay flat on the ground, they don't touch that tab sticking out of the back of the sub-frame.

So if you mangle the front of the brace it may touch the sub-frame and cause a creek, but a jackstand can also put pressure on the brace and bend/bow it upward in the center. And that causes it to touch and rub on that tab sticking out the back of the sub-frame.

I know the exact part you’re talking about, and that is exactly where it is rubbing haha. It was definitely from my jack. Car has less than a thousand miles on it, and it was 100% my fault. Good thing the bracket is only like 30$.

 

[Icg42]

So I think I have it, but minor version. Which is why I'm wondering what it sounds like. Only happens when I'm going slow through a parking lot, or pulling out of a stop sign, etc. Does that sound right?

yeah that’s the only time it happens to me, at low speed. I took a video for you, but how do I even post a video in here? I can’t figure it out

 

[Icg42]

yeah that’s the only time it happens to me, at low speed. I took a video for you, but how do I even post a video in here? I can’t figure it out

So I think I have it, but minor version. Which is why I'm wondering what it sounds like. Only happens when I'm going slow through a parking lot, or pulling out of a stop sign, etc. Does that sound right?

iCloud

can you see this video?

 

[NinjaGrunt]

Yep! Able to see video and hear the noise. Thank you so much!!

If that's a 10/10, mine is like 2 or 3/10. Are these only on the front or on all 4 corners because it's been seemingly impossible for me to isolate the noise (feel like it's on one corner then hear it on another corner and feel like I'm going mad).

 

[Icg42]

Yep! Able to see video and hear the noise. Thank you so much!!

If that's a 10/10, mine is like 2 or 3/10. Are these only on the front or on all 4 corners because it's been seemingly impossible for me to isolate the noise (feel like it's on one corner then hear it on another corner and feel like I'm going mad).

There’s brackets in the back, but not in a place where’d you jack it up. As far as I know this should really only happen in the front

 

[Mongo53]

A couple of points I forgot.....
Soaking Undercarraige bolts with WD-40 or any penetrating oil everyday for several days before you remove them goes a long a way in allowing bolts to break free easier if they have corroded from road chemicals and water.

There is also speculation that the bolt hole traps water and gets in the threads, causing it to corrode and the corrosion can cause the noise as well as the bracket being bent up. Other accounts, and mine as well, when I first pulled that large bolt that goes through the rear poins of the sub-frame a good cup of water drained out of the bolt hole and the bolt threads were very rusty. So your brackets could not be bent at all and its simple corrosion on the bolt causing the noise.

 

[NinjaGrunt]

A couple of points I forgot.....
Soaking Undercarraige bolts with WD-40 or any penetrating oil everyday for several days before you remove them goes a long a way in allowing bolts to break free easier if they have corroded from road chemicals and water.

There is also speculation that the bolt hole traps water and gets in the threads, causing it to corrode and the corrosion can cause the noise as well as the bracket being bent up. Other accounts, and mine as well, when I first pulled that large bolt that goes through the rear poins of the sub-frame a good cup of water drained out of the bolt hole and the bolt threads were very rusty. So your brackets could not be bent at all and its simple corrosion on the bolt causing the noise.

Did your car make a splish/splash noise like water was trapped in the frame somewhere when you are parked and just rocking the body?

 

[Icg42]

A couple of points I forgot.....
Soaking Undercarraige bolts with WD-40 or any penetrating oil everyday for several days before you remove them goes a long a way in allowing bolts to break free easier if they have corroded from road chemicals and water.

There is also speculation that the bolt hole traps water and gets in the threads, causing it to corrode and the corrosion can cause the noise as well as the bracket being bent up. Other accounts, and mine as well, when I first pulled that large bolt that goes through the rear poins of the sub-frame a good cup of water drained out of the bolt hole and the bolt threads were very rusty. So your brackets could not be bent at all and its simple corrosion on the bolt causing the noise.

That is a good point, and I’ve also read similar stories of that bolt creaking. In my case, it’s brand new (less than 1000 miles) haha. So it was easy for me to identify.

 

[Mongo53]

Did your car make a splish/splash noise like water was trapped in the frame somewhere when you are parked and just rocking the body?

No splish/splash sound, water was never trapped in the frame at least how you seem to be thinking about it. Water was trapped in the bolt hole above the bolt, the bolt goes in from the bottom. SO the threads on the bolt corroded, I'm guessing the corrosion creates a little more room between threads and that lets its move a bit with forces, helping create the creek....

But the real problem, and the creek never stopped until I swapped out the bent up brackets that were touching the subframe itself, as the subframe shifts a bit with forces, it will rub against the bent up brace, touching it from being bent up... ...that creates the creek, two pieces of metal rubbing against each other....

 

[Ryan23]

No splish/splash sound, water was never trapped in the frame at least how you seem to be thinking about it. Water was trapped in the bolt hole above the bolt, the bolt goes in from the bottom. SO the threads on the bolt corroded, I'm guessing the corrosion creates a little more room between threads and that lets its move a bit with forces, helping create the creek....

But the real problem, and the creek never stopped until I swapped out the bent up brackets that were touching the subframe itself, as the subframe shifts a bit with forces, it will rub against the bent up brace, touching it from being bent up... ...that creates the creek, two pieces of metal rubbing against each other....

Hey the other video that showed an example of the sound has been removed. I am currently having a sqeak come from the front ride side of my vehicle. I'm thinking this is the issue because it started to occur after getting a tire rotation and oil change at the dealership.

Short video of the squeak in experiencing

 

[Icg42]

Hey the other video that showed an example of the sound has been removed. I am currently having a sqeak come from the front ride side of my vehicle. I'm thinking this is the issue because it started to occur after getting a tire rotation and oil change at the dealership.

Short video of the squeak in experiencing

That is not the same creak that comes from the bent brackets, that sounds like something else. The bent brackets create a very distinct, loud creaking.

 

[Ryan23]

Thank you I'll continue on my search

 

[Mongo53]

Yep, concur with lcg42, that is not the sound, you're recording sounds like a squeek... ....the bent brackets is a definitive creak....

 

[Tomalapala]

BRACKET, Crossmember, Left	52124643AB	1​
BRACKET, Crossmember, Right	52124642AB	1​
BOLT AND WASHER, Hex Head, M14X1.50X147.00	06509240AA	2​
BOLT AND WASHER, Hex Head, M8x1.25x20, Cradle Bracket to Body	06104384AA	6​

This is from the 2011 Parts Catalog, you might want to confirm if its changed in later years.

They are not expensive if you order from a Dealer Online, even cheaper if you can find them Ebay, even cheaper since you don't have to pay S&H.

Once you replace them, never rest them on jackstands or jacks again. My old were scalloped, basically bowed, compared to the new. It was touching other metal pieces, because the bracket was bowed up, so the slightest shifting made them scrape and creak.

Hi, I seem to have this same issue now, only on my passenger front side. Is there anywhere I can learn more about this replacement process?

If I'm understanding what everyone has sad, does this diagram depict the bolt and bracket assembly in question? Cradle, Front Suspension.

 

[Tomalapala]

Replacing Drivers and Passenger side crossmember brackets

Planning on replacing the cross member brackets on my 2012 Overland as I am trying to get rid of the creaking that seems to be caused by bent brackets. Planning on getting these parts 52124642AB, 52124643AB My question is what is the procedure of removing the brackets? Not sure if the Jeep...

www.jeepgarage.org

Oh I just found this thread to be helpful. If anyone has any other directions or photos/videos, please link them!

 

[Mongo53]

Hi, I seem to have this same issue now, only on my passenger front side. Is there anywhere I can learn more about this replacement process?

If I'm understanding what everyone has sad, does this diagram depict the bolt and bracket assembly in question? Cradle, Front Suspension.

Yes, the diagram depicts the bracket being discussed.

Its replacing piece of metal held on by 4 bolts, read the original post discussing the pitfalls of removing more than one bolt at a time for the cradle, and all the photos posted showing the location. If you need more help after reading the threads, looking at the pictures and your own vehicle, perhaps you should take it to a mechanic and have them do it.

 

[Tomalapala]

Yes, the diagram depicts the bracket being discussed.

Its replacing piece of metal held on by 4 bolts, read the original post discussing the pitfalls of removing more than one bolt at a time for the cradle, and all the photos posted showing the location. If you need more help after reading the threads, looking at the pictures and your own vehicle, perhaps you should take it to a mechanic and have them do it.

Thanks! Definitely trying to determine if this is above my skill level or not. The only part that doesn't make sense is "removing one bolt at a time." If I'm removing and replacing one bolt at a time, how are you supposed to get the bracket off as it will still be held in?

I only ordered parts to replace the passenger side bracket and the 4 bolts. It looks like as long as the subframe is supported with a jack/stands, shouldn't all 4 bolts be able to be removed sequentially?

 

[Mongo53]

Thanks! Definitely trying to determine if this is above my skill level or not. The only part that doesn't make sense is "removing one bolt at a time." If I'm removing and replacing one bolt at a time, how are you supposed to get the bracket off as it will still be held in?

I only ordered parts to replace the passenger side bracket and the 4 bolts. It looks like as long as the subframe is supported with a jack/stands, shouldn't all 4 bolts be able to be removed sequentially?

The biggest bolt goes through the brace and the subframe/cradle to the body/chassis, the rest of the bolts just through brace to the body/chassis.
So you want to make sure you remove only one bolt at a time that goes through the "SUBFRAME"/"CRADLE" to the body. You can and have to remove all the bolts to the brace.

That means, you have to remove one brace and re-install it and torque it down before starting the next one.

If you do it that way, you remove only one of four bolts holding the subframe/cradle to the body at a time. The subframe is supporting the engine/trans/xfr case and is heavy itself, you will notice just removing one bolt that goes to the subframe, that corner of the subframe will sag a half inch from its weight alone.

Since you plan on only doing one brace, this is not a concern for you, you pull all the bolts for that one brace and re-install them with the new brace.

What we're warning against, is someone that might try to replace both braces and remove both braces at the same time, both braces off at the same time. That would leave only the front two bolt of the subframe holding the subframe to the body and two rear bolts holding the subframe to the body out, with the weight and forces on the subframe, its not hard to imagine that could cause some damage, if not serious damage.

The big bolt that goes through the brace and subframe to the body/chassis takes a lot of torque to break free, you should get a 2ft breaker bar if you do not already have one.