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Agree that this post is a life-saver. Had an annoying squeak after went in for a wheel alignment after I replaced upper and lower control arms so thought it was something I did wrong. Luckily I googled "squeaky WK2 suspension" and this post came up. Sure enough found one subframe brace bent and the other side was just crushed from the company lifting it using these braces - despite their assurances that a hoist wasn't used.

My assessment is that if the squeak only happens when you accelerate or brake sharply, it's very likely a bent subframe brace, whereas a swaybar doesn't tend to squeak in this situation and more likely to make a noise when one wheel hits a bump. In fact, I think it's very unlikely a swaybar would squeak but a quick test is to disconnect and see if the squeak is still there.

BTW, I fabricated a new brace made from 40 x 5mm angle iron to replace the very fragile factory item so wont get bent hitting an object off-road and I could actually use an axle stand under it.
Preview of gallery image.
 
BRACKET, Crossmember, Left52124643AB
1​
BRACKET, Crossmember, Right52124642AB
1​
BOLT AND WASHER, Hex Head,
M14X1.50X147.00
06509240AA
2​
BOLT AND WASHER, Hex Head, M8x1.25x20, Cradle Bracket to Body06104384AA
6​

This is from the 2011 Parts Catalog, you might want to confirm if its changed in later years.

They are not expensive if you order from a Dealer Online, even cheaper if you can find them Ebay, even cheaper since you don't have to pay S&H.

Once you replace them, never rest them on jackstands or jacks again. My old were scalloped, basically bowed, compared to the new. It was touching other metal pieces, because the bracket was bowed up, so the slightest shifting made them scrape and creak.
How many parts of each are needed im gonna replace the passanger side on my 2011 Jeep GC
 
How many parts of each are needed im gonna replace the passanger side on my 2011 Jeep GC
Look to the far right of that chart and it will tell you the quantity needed. Keep in mind the number of bolts needed in the chart assumes that someone is replacing both crossmember brackets. You could probably reuse the old bolts but if they have been on there since new and they are corroded they sometimes break when trying to remove them. You don't want to be in the middle of replacing a crossmember bracket and have that happen and no bolts to replace it with.

The torque values can be found on pg 1 of this thread.
 
BRACKET, Crossmember, Left52124643AB
1​
BRACKET, Crossmember, Right52124642AB
1​
BOLT AND WASHER, Hex Head,
M14X1.50X147.00
06509240AA
2​
BOLT AND WASHER, Hex Head, M8x1.25x20, Cradle Bracket to Body06104384AA
6​

This is from the 2011 Parts Catalog, you might want to confirm if its changed in later years.

They are not expensive if you order from a Dealer Online, even cheaper if you can find them Ebay, even cheaper since you don't have to pay S&H.

Once you replace them, never rest them on jackstands or jacks again. My old were scalloped, basically bowed, compared to the new. It was touching other metal pieces, because the bracket was bowed up, so the slightest shifting made them scrape and creak.
Bro 5 years later and you just saved the day it’s 4:13 a.m I read this and just ordered parts thank you my damn trackhawk has been doing this for MONTHS!!!! I could not figure it out.
 
Creaking noise coming from the front of the vehicle, that goes through the whole body and might sound like its coming from the inside the cabin, associated with the acceleration and braking at low speeds, suspension going up and down at low speeds...

The front sub-frame that holds the suspension and engine, mounts to the body through big rubber bushings and long bolts through the bushings, 4, one at each corner... ...the rear 2 bushings have A-Frame braces below the bushing.... ....this bushing, brace and bolt are the source of the creaking....

Seems water gets into the inner sleeve of the bushing, causes corrosion and this creaks the creaking as the bushing deflects and moves slightly with the forces of accelerating/decelerating and suspension motion....

A video about it....

The location of this bolt, from the video...
View attachment 220994

My own photos, where you can actually see the sub-frame to locate the bolt....
View attachment 220995 View attachment 220996

You only want to remove 1 bolt at a time, remember this is holding the sub-frame to the body.... ...remove the bolt, clean the corrosion, then thoroughly coat the bolt in Antiseize or grease, use a q-tip to spread lots of antiseize/grease inside the bushing as well, reinstall the bolt and tighten to 130 Ft-Lbs...

Granted, its only been a couple of drives since doing this, so I don't know if or when the creaking will come back, but it worked like a charm for me, no more creaking.....
New to this thread and having similar issues with my jeep.
Anyway you can share the video with sound it was making . Might be the same issue i have. Thanks.
 
Discussion starter · #108 ·
New to this thread and having similar issues with my jeep.
Anyway you can share the video with sound it was making . Might be the same issue i have. Thanks.
It wasn't my video, sorry its not available anymore. I no longer have the sound, so I can't make a video.
Yes, 5 years later, I have made sure not to make the same mistake and dent/bend these braces and the sound has not come back.
 
It wasn't my video, sorry its not available anymore. I no longer have the sound, so I can't make a video.
Yes, 5 years later, I have made sure not to make the same mistake and dent/bend these braces and the sound has not come back.
Gotchu.
Was the sound like a bed squeaking?
I hear it everytime i go over a bump and braking anytime the suspension goes up and down.
 
Discussion starter · #110 ·
Gotchu.
Was the sound like a bed squeaking?
I hear it everytime i go over a bump and braking anytime the suspension goes up and down.
No its a creek sound. And it happens when you brake or accelerate at low speed, when the weight shifts fore or aft, even ever so slightly. Go over big bumps, suspension go up and down, no creek. And only at low speeds, don't know if road noise drowns it out or it just doesn't happen at higher speeds, but it happens like under 10mph, coming to a stop or pulling out from a stop.
 
Thanks for that info! I have QT2, but the clunk is for sure not the transfer case. It happens when I hit little bumps in the road, almost sounds like a loose undercarriage plate bouncing around. That was why my first thought was struts. If replacing these brackets doesn't fix the clunk, then I'll eventually try the struts next (as I already have new ones sitting in my garage, waiting to be installed). I'm betting the creaking is definitely these brackets though, so most likely this will resolve at least one of my annoying noises, if not both :)
I know it's been a while, but...

Did changing the brackets fix the clunking, or was that the struts or something else?
 
Discussion starter · #113 ·
The brackets create a creak you might not notice if the stereo is up loud. It happens with a weight shift at low speed, like from braking or accelerating, like below 5-10 mph. Again, look at my photos to see if the bracket and tab are touching.

If you have worn out sway bar end links, you will get a clunk as the wheels go up and down, especially if one wheel goes up/down more than the other. Or just one wheel goes over bumps.
 
Thanks to Mongo53 and others who contributed to this thread. I made the same mistake with a jackstand and got the creaks and squeaks when I tapped the brakes. When my neice asked, "why is your car so squeeky?" I knew I had to do something and fortunately found this post. Bought the replacement brackets form RockAuto (they had one of each side left) and reused the existing bolts. The job can be done without lifting the vehicle, but putting a jack near the lower control arm mount helped keep the engine cradle from sagging when I took out the long main bolt. Now she is as quiet as new! Thanks again!
 
Image
So I'm having this issue again so I want to remove the bracket this time to see if it's bent. Here is the part from Mopar direct. In this picture when the bracket is laid down part of it is up off the floor, as you can see in the picture. Is this the way it's supposed to be?
 
Hello, everyone! I thought it was the same shit as mine, but no. There is a squeak and tapping from the front, and when I hit speed bumps, I have a deafening knock near the back seat from below, I would say even somewhere a little to the left, sometimes there is a double knock. Once I stopped after a deep pothole and after stopping it knocked. So I wonder if it could be a partition in the fuel tank. The sound is definitely from behind.

Переведено с помощью DeepL (DeepL The right app or extension for every translation)
 
On my 2016 I have a clunking noise vs a creaking sound. I've looked at the brackets before and they seem fine. Took out bolts to see before and they were tight and not corroded. Would installing a 2in strut lift cause problems with these brackets.. struts are new. New end links new ball joints . New bar bushings ( dorman) started after lift and parts installed. Wheel alignment was done too.You can feel the clunk in the floor while driving have been going crazy trying to track it down. Thinking lower control arms but the seem ok
 
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