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This thread should be pinned to help people avoid dealers trying to rip everyone off with a transfer case replacement. My 2014 overland just had all the same symptoms mentioned in this thread. Dealer tried to sell me on a new transfer case for $5,600. I replaced the transfer control module today and it fixed all the issues.
I’m so glad you were able to see this before shelling out that money!
 
Man that is awesome news. Hoping mine is the exact same way. I did the same thing that you did...driving my son to daycare and thought "Hmmm...well it does it in Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive...how about Sand? Snow? Mud? Sport? 4wheel Lo?" Shit. Can't get it out of 4lo for the life of me after 45 minutes in a parking lot with my son saying "Daddy? Is the Jeep broken!?"...It has been sitting in the garage for 2 days waiting for the part to arrive.

I told my wife that it was my fault, but told work, after showing up 2 hours late, that "It just went in to 4wheel lo and wouldn't get out of it."

Fingers crossed.

Thanks for reporting back. Made my day.
Hey Nolan, Did the new module fix your issue? I went through the same sequence and got stuck in 4Low + Transfer Case neutral, although I was backed into the driveway.

My issue was not exactly the same from the start, I just started getting a random SERV 4wd message while driving and ACC, FCW, Trac. Ctrl were all disabled. The first & second time the message cleared by the next time I hopped in but this time the message stayed on and I started pushing buttons to make sure everything was working or wasn't. Now, I am stuck in 4LOW & TC Neutral red light is solid. When I roll forward and back to test I can't tell if it's actually in TC Neutral (RWD) or 4LOW. It is high RPMs & slow-moving. Pretty clearly not in 4HI.

Based on this thread I am thinking I should just order the module and snap it in myself to start.
 
I got it used at 44k a few months ago and it’s at 51k miles now.
I just had it in for the 50k maintenance, oil, tires, inspection. But not sure when/if the transfer case has been looked at.
I dropped it off at the dealer tonight and they scanned it and said it might be a full transfer case That’s bad but can’t say for sure. I’ll try to post back with any updates.
 
Posting an update after getting it back from the dealership this afternoon.
The repair was covered under warranty and took 3 days from the time I dropped it off.

Notes:

T-CASE STUCK IN 4WD LOW, FOUND FLUID BURNT DUE TO MAIN SHAFT CLUTCH ASSEMBLY FAILURE.
FOUND FLUID LEVEL WAS OL, FLUID CONDITION LOOKED ABNORMAL. FOUND ELEC. COMPONENTS OK
REMOVED T-CASE AND OPENED T-CASE FOR INSPECTION MAINSHAFT CLUTCH ASSEMBLY FAILURE MATERIAL CLUTCH PACK HAVE FAILED.
REPLACED MAINSHAFT ASSY. RE-INSTALLED T-CASE AND FOUND PROPER OPERATION AFTER REPAIR.

68071221-AC - T-CASE MAINSHAFT
68026955-AA - SEAL
5010884-AD - SEALER
 
2013 Jeep Grand the Transfer Case Control Mod. Was a successful repair. Constant clicking from the transfer case motor binding when steering to tight. Thanks for the help guys and gals! Oh no programming needed for now
 
2013 Jeep Grand the Transfer Case Control Mod. Was a successful repair. Constant clicking from the transfer case motor binding when steering to tight. Thanks for the help guys and gals! Oh no programming needed for now
Wanted to say that because of this thread I was able to fix my transfer case clicking issue with the Transfer Case Control Module, my “service 4 wheel drive” light was coming on and the car didn’t seem to feel right when driving in low gears. All of this is resolved now!

For reference, I have a 2015 Grand Cherokee and only 40k miles , it has 4 wheel drive/Quadra track, this is important when purchasing the correct Transfer Case Control Module, I got mine from Rock Auto for about $300.

I was quoted for complete rebuilds of the transfer case at well over $3000 from 2 Jeep service locations. Can’t thank this forum enough!
 
It was really useful for me, I had the same annoying issue in my 2014 Overland GC. The dealer released front shaft so that I could drive the car because they were not sure about the solution. Finally I decided to order the TCCM and at last I got it fixed. By the way, there has been a big snowstorm here three weeks ago, and I can say that it is really difficult to drive the Jeep only with rear shaft. Even wiht all season tires it was depressing oversteer to the minimum turn. May be equiping winter tires it would have been different result. Anyway, I think this car is the king in snow conditions, when it´s well fixed.
 
The initial evaluation on my 2014 Overland 3.6L from Dealer X was to replace the transfer case. Cost estimate $5,000. Mechanic Y said it's likely old tranny fluid, so we replaced that along with the differential fluids. No improvement. The car was throwing a code indicating the module lost contact with the transfer motor. Clicking sound. The slippage between 1st/2nd gear. Resistance when turning.

Quick research led me to this thread. Eureka? I mailed the thread to mechanic Y, he ordered the Module, and true to form (after a battery swap) we started the engine, a few clicks, and shifts smooth as silk.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
I am beyond thrilled that this thread has helped so many.

All has still been good for me since starting this and figuring it out. I am very disappointed at the amount of transfer replacement required opinions people are getting for something that could be a simple swap at the dealer to prove out this issue.
 
I am beyond thrilled that this thread has helped so many.

All has still been good for me since starting this and figuring it out. I am very disappointed at the amount of transfer replacement required opinions people are getting for something that could be a simple swap at the dealer to prove out this issue.
I created an account just to thank you for posting this solution. I, like others, had the dreaded ticking transfer case (it was almost constant) and the "Service 4WD" dash light for almost 9 months. Both a Jeep dealership and a large reputable independent mechanic quoted me $5k for a full transfer case replacement. I ordered part number 68395643AA ($246 shipped) for my 2012 Grand Cherokee Limited from moparonlineparts.com. I installed the new control module today (in under 5 minutes) and the ticking is GONE, service light is GONE (no software flashing or reset) and it drives great. Thank you so much!!!!
 
Seems like a lot of folks are having this or similar problems w/ transfer case?

You got lucky. My MY12 Grand Cherokee Limited transfer case imploded last week while taking off into an intersection. After an awful noise the '4WD Service' light came on, slipped into neutral, lost gear shift, coasted through traffic narrowly avoiding collision, off onto the side of the road, then couldn't get back into gear. Called a tow truck and the dealer has just quoted me to replace the entire transfer case, drive shaft and rear diff. More than the resale value of the car - with only 49,000 kms on the clock. It's basically a write-off.
 
Just made an account so I could send my appreciation to FirehawkNS and everyone else in this thread. I developed the exact same symptoms a week ago and it grew progressively worse(I have a 2014 Grand Cherokee Overland with 94k miles). Sometimes the Jeep would operate normally, and others I couldn’t even make a sharp turn without feeling the wheels lock up. The transfer case was making several clicks and felt sluggish between 1st and 2nd. I ordered the part on Rockauto.com and it was shipped within a few days. I thought about disconnecting the battery and performing a memory reset, but after reading this thread I felt confident to just plug and play the module with the vehicle off. I pressed the start button twice without my foot off the brake, heard the transfer case make a couple more sounds before I fully started the ignition. So far, my Jeep is running smoother than ever! Thanks for helping me save thousands of dollars!!!
 
I am beyond thrilled that this thread has helped so many.

All has still been good for me since starting this and figuring it out. I am very disappointed at the amount of transfer replacement required opinions people are getting for something that could be a simple swap at the dealer to prove out this issue.
Local Jeep dealership swore up and down that I needed a new tranny. I debated and challenged him for a half hour. He even told me it was "a ticking time bomb and it could blow at any minute" and he felt guilty letting me leave with such a dangerous condition. I refused, and while they were bringing my car around I found this forum and ordered the TCCM from Rock Auto. Fixed it 2 days later and is never run better.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU 🙏🙏🙏
 
I began experiencing issues over 20k miles ago when I would slowly come to a complete stop and the transmission would downshift from 2nd to 1st gear. It was a annoying jerk/shutter but if I braked like most Californians do I wouldn't experience this issue. Three weeks ago I began receiving the "Service 4WD System" error on the EVIC when my speed reached above 55MPH. The error would clear own its own after driving at speeds under 55MPH for a few minutes. I was still able to activate 4WD low.

I never noticed the TICKING noise that was described by other members until was in drive-thru. The ticking noise would appear for 5 seconds or so and then stop for a few seconds and the cycle would repeat.

I replaced the transfer case control module (TCCM) and it cured the downshift issue and the 4WD error message hasn't appeared.

Big (y)(y) to the OP. Thank you
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
I began experiencing issues over 20k miles ago when I would slowly come to a complete stop and the transmission would downshift from 2nd to 1st gear. It was a annoying jerk/shutter but if I braked like most Californians do I wouldn't experience this issue. Three weeks ago I began receiving the "Service 4WD System" error on the EVIC when my speed reached above 55MPH. The error would clear own its own after driving at speeds under 55MPH for a few minutes. I was still able to activate 4WD low.

I never noticed the TICKING noise that was described by other members until was in drive-thru. The ticking noise would appear for 5 seconds or so and then stop for a few seconds and the cycle would repeat.

I replaced the transfer case control module (TCCM) and it cured the downshift issue and the 4WD error message hasn't appeared.

Big (y)(y) to the OP. Thank you
Awesome guys.

I am happy I was able to get the thread detailed enough to help others get this answered as cheaply as possible. I am at 118,500 miles now, still running great since the change. Knocks on wood
 
Did you ever drive it with it unplugged? If so, did the light go out but traction control stay on? Drove fine?
I don't think anyone has. The MP3023 Transfer Case directly drives the rear drivetrain, the clutch pack engages the front drivetrain by an electric motor and linkage. The module controls that clutch pack. And the clutch pack pressure changes constantly with different modes, conditions, speeds and when turning. At higher speeds while cruising its actually taking all pressure off the clutch pack to make the vehicle RWD.

So disconnecting the module might take off all pressure on the clutch pack and result in the transfer case being constantly in RWD only. Or it might simply leave the electric motor and linkage in the last position it was in, and then the pressure would not be taken off the clutch pack when it was necessary, creating binding in the drivetrain while driving and wearing out the clutch pack very quickly and then you'll need a new Transfer case.

I once tried to jack my WK2, with MP3023 transfer case, on a hill, with the rear wheels going up in the air with the parking brake set. I figured the rear wheels locked with the parking brake would prevent the front wheels from turning. My WK2 started rolling down hill as soon as the rear wheels got off the ground. That's an indication when the vehicle is shutdown the pressure on the clutch pack is at least not enough to keep the front wheels turning with a little force from the rear wheels.

So disconnected the Module might put it in RWD, it might not, and a Transfer case is an expensive thing to experiment with. You could put the vehicle up in the air on jack stands, with the engine running with the module disconnected and see if you turn both front wheels without resistance. They have to turn in the same direction.

Finally, I doubt disconnected the module will get rid of the 4WD warning message, the module disconnected is indicating something is wrong and the warning will still light. Its possible, if the module has discrete wiring to the warning light itself on the panel, but that is unusual now a days. The instrument panel has its own control module turning lights on/off according to CAN Bus messages, if the module doesn't report back on the bus, then it lights the warning light simply because the module is dead as far as the system knows.

Remember, QT1 drivetrain has the MP2011 transfer case, this is a much simpler transfer case without any electronic control that I am aware of. It might not even be a control module for it.

The QT2 and QD2 use MP3023 transfer case.
 
Awesome guys.

I am happy I was able to get the thread detailed enough to help others get this answered as cheaply as possible. I am at 118,500 miles now, still running great since the change. Knocks on wood
I registered just to thank you guys for the solution!
Had the same problem with my '13 SRT, 95k miles as FirehawkNS described and it got worse in short time (constant clicking at slow speed but no codes). I decided to replace the motor first (I live in Europe having additional charges at checkout). Clicking disappeared but set back in two days, more quietly. Then I ordered a new TCCM. After quick installation the problem solved immediately, no more clicking!
Furthermore I had strange problems, rough shifting and hesitation in 1-2-3 gears since I have the car. The new TCCM solved it as well, shifting works like a charm. Thank you once again!
 
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