Someone please educate and advise me. I have a stock '14 Jeep GC Overland that has Quadra-Lift. I have a leaking rear shock so I need a recommendation on new ones. Every shock I've seen says "don't use with air bags". I want to upgrade somewhat from the standard dealer shock that failed so quickly for me. Why won't the regular shock (without Q-L) work when you have Q-L and what upgraded shock will work?
Rear Shocks when you have Quadra-Lift?
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Papajeep
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I would say as long as you get that exact part number from Bilstein (Bilstein 24-225427), you'd be good.
Re: Rear Shocks when you have Quadra-Lift®?
I'm going to replace both shocks very soon, like in a few day's, i've just have to order the correct parts.
On my WK2 2013 3.0 V6 CRD with QL i have 68080211AC shocks (not listed here).
Edit: I just ordered 2 BILSTEIN - B6 4600 shocks (delivery on thursday). And i'm going to replace them on friday. I hope they will be a perfect fit like suggested in this thread
Fingers crossed
I'm going to replace both shocks very soon, like in a few day's, i've just have to order the correct parts.
On my WK2 2013 3.0 V6 CRD with QL i have 68080211AC shocks (not listed here).
Edit: I just ordered 2 BILSTEIN - B6 4600 shocks (delivery on thursday). And i'm going to replace them on friday. I hope they will be a perfect fit like suggested in this thread
Fingers crossed Just a quick post to confirm that the BILSTEIN - B6 4600 shocks are a drop in replacement for my Euro WK2 2013 with QL :thumbsup:
The Bilstein shocks are making a huge difference in terms of stability. I'm really impressed how much better they feel over the stock shocks.
Thx guy's for the excelent advice!
The Bilstein shocks are making a huge difference in terms of stability. I'm really impressed how much better they feel over the stock shocks.
Thx guy's for the excelent advice!
I posted this earlier: here is an after market front strut for the the 2011-2015 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE Quadra Lift®.
WK2 QUADRA LIFT AIR STRUT ASSEMBLIES FRONT PAIR - JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE
(It looks like now the cost is much lower)
Suncore Industries has many after market suspension parts. They have also had remanufactured parts as well.
2014 Summit 5.7 4wd 20" tires swapped to 18", added all skid plates
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Just posting another data point for the Bilstein 4600
I put a set on my 2014 today. It has 67,000 miles on it. Old shocks looked OK. What a difference, the rear end really feels much more controlled. Turns with bumps that make the whole vehicle sort of tilt back and forth before are now much smoother and less "tilty".
The measurements I made on the OEM v 4600's are...
Original shocks
Top of body to top of washer = 16"
CL of Eye to top of washer = 5 3/8"
Uncushioned stroke = 1 3/4"
Bilstein shocks
Top of body to top of washer = 16"
CL of Eye to top of washer = 6 3/8"
By my measurements the Bilstein has a 1" longer rod then OEM. Bodies are same.
The uncushioned stroke, the distance between the top of the body and the end of the jounce bumper around the rod, seems pretty short and that's with the shock completely extended. Once installed you can't see it because of the black dust boot but I'd have to think that there is very little uncushioned stroke once the vehicle is on the ground and the shock is compressed.
I put the JGC in OR2 thinking that would make it easier... NOPE. That made it impossible to get pressure off the shock, the air spring was pushing on it hard, if I'd taken the mounting bolts out it would have gone SPROING. So returned it to normal ride height which worked fine. Used a scissors jack to lift the whole thing up and a bottle jack to move the control are up to get it to a "no load on the shock" position for unbolting and rebolting.
Getting the nut off the top of the rod was a bit of a pain. I used a thick piece of very durable rubber and vice grips to hold onto the shaft so it wouldn't turn to get the nut off the old shocks. For the new shocks (Which have a different style of "hold me from turning" setup) I mostly used a hex wrench and deep socket (see photos). But the hex in the rod wallowed out on the second shock and I had to use the rubber and vice grips to finish it. Don't like doing that but the rubber completely protected the surface of the rood.
I put a set on my 2014 today. It has 67,000 miles on it. Old shocks looked OK. What a difference, the rear end really feels much more controlled. Turns with bumps that make the whole vehicle sort of tilt back and forth before are now much smoother and less "tilty".
The measurements I made on the OEM v 4600's are...
Original shocks
Top of body to top of washer = 16"
CL of Eye to top of washer = 5 3/8"
Uncushioned stroke = 1 3/4"
Bilstein shocks
Top of body to top of washer = 16"
CL of Eye to top of washer = 6 3/8"
By my measurements the Bilstein has a 1" longer rod then OEM. Bodies are same.
The uncushioned stroke, the distance between the top of the body and the end of the jounce bumper around the rod, seems pretty short and that's with the shock completely extended. Once installed you can't see it because of the black dust boot but I'd have to think that there is very little uncushioned stroke once the vehicle is on the ground and the shock is compressed.
I put the JGC in OR2 thinking that would make it easier... NOPE. That made it impossible to get pressure off the shock, the air spring was pushing on it hard, if I'd taken the mounting bolts out it would have gone SPROING. So returned it to normal ride height which worked fine. Used a scissors jack to lift the whole thing up and a bottle jack to move the control are up to get it to a "no load on the shock" position for unbolting and rebolting.
Getting the nut off the top of the rod was a bit of a pain. I used a thick piece of very durable rubber and vice grips to hold onto the shaft so it wouldn't turn to get the nut off the old shocks. For the new shocks (Which have a different style of "hold me from turning" setup) I mostly used a hex wrench and deep socket (see photos). But the hex in the rod wallowed out on the second shock and I had to use the rubber and vice grips to finish it. Don't like doing that but the rubber completely protected the surface of the rood.
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Has anybody here heard of using the oem air shocks with after market components? I have wk2 non srt with lowering springs and mopar shocks. I was thinking of installing some bilstein or go with air ride?
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Thanks for the pictures and measurements.
So these 4600 are good for both Highest or2 and lowest aero mode (assuming still have some more room to collapse for potholes). How about 5100? Will they be too long for aero mode?
Also another question is if you notice difference even after replacing rears only, the fronts must need replacement at some stage as they are still the shocks (even air bag may last the whole life of car). What km do you reckon we should change front ones as well. I have 130k km (about 80k mile) with oem both front and rear and havent noticed any problem yet. When the time come what would you do oem. aftermarket?
Was going to order the Bilstein 24-225427 shocks weeks ago for my GC Overlander from RockAuto but they told me only one in stock. didnt know when they would get more.!! Now I know why ,I was on a Bilstein US agent site and a large number of their agents have been stopped selling Bs including RockAuto.Maybe for discounting/or selling outside their areas. Got a pair from Summit Racing for around $86.00 each.
I just replaced the fronts with remanufactured ones from RMT (https://rebuildmastertech.com/jeep/grand-cherokee/) on my 2011 with 125k miles. They were $235 each plus a $75 core deposit that you get back when you ship your old ones back to them with their box and prepaid UPS label. The dealer's labor was about $800. So much cheaper than getting the parts through the dealer. I've only drivien about 20 miles on them so far, but the front is noticably more firm.
I found this from a Bilstein Marketer....
What's the difference between Bilstein B6 and Bilstein B8?
We continue to explain the key differences between the comprehensive Bilstein range in basic terms. Today we will look at the Bilstein B6 and the Bilstein B8. At a quick glance the B6 and B8 range look identical but they have a very important difference. Can you see it? The B8 is shorter than...
www.bilstein-shocks.co.uk
Basically, the 4600 is the B6 shock and 5100 is the B8 shock, they say they are the same shock the difference is;
B6 is built as a direct replacement for unmodified suspensions...
B8 is built with provisions to support modifying the suspension...
So B8's for sporty vehicles are built to support lowering the vehicle
B8's for SUV's and Trucks have provisions for lifting the vehicle
The 5100's for the WK2 has an adjustable front spring perch that raise the front ride height at least 0.4" up to 1.75"... ...the rears are longer to support 0"-1" of lift in the rear....
The previous generation, the WK/XK the Bilstein shocks were the same setup, and the 4600 was a few dollars cheaper than the 5100....
Bargain shopping the internet, I'm finding 5100's for a few dollars less than the 4600....
There is probably nothing to this flip, might simply be supply and demand at different times..
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I noticed on shockwarehouse.com that the 4600’s are listed for the years and really only exclude the nivomat shocks. So they kind of do list them by exclusion.
this is excellent to know. Has anybody changed the upper shock mount while they were doing this?
If so, is that difficult or pretty easy? Thanks
this is excellent to know. Has anybody changed the upper shock mount while they were doing this?
If so, is that difficult or pretty easy? Thanks
2014 Summit 5.7 4wd 20" tires swapped to 18", added all skid plates
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To put on new shocks you need to remove the upper shock mount whether you change it or not. There is nothing difficult about removing it. Two bolts hold it to the body, remove them and remove the lower thru bolt for the shock and it all can be taken out.
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